Squeaky Penguin's (Trip Reports) Build Thread

It is kind of new however, I have been working with Off Grid engineering the past few years and we've run them as a recommendation for most dual battery systems. Some over which have been running this set up for a few years now without any downsides. The alternator still functions exactly as Toyota intended charging when it needs and reducing when it doesn't all it does it increase the baseline voltage.

 

From deka.



Means I'm below the optimum charge voltage if it's below 70 degrees. However, there was also a warning about not charging above 14.6v at room temperature. Makes me wonder if anyone is doing harm to their batteries by upping the charging voltage in warm seasons/environments.

 

For me having the fridge in a 100 degree cab is what will kill my battery quickly. Should get a couple days without a charge if the cab stays in the 70s.

 

I don't see myself needing more than a day.

I'm also going to put it in the bed, which I think will stay cooler than the cab.

 

Alternators specifically older Toyota are temperature based chargers. They charge the highest voltage when cold, say below 32°f and then charge at a lower voltage at above 70°f, so if it's charging 14.2-14.7 it's charging 14.7 when you start you truck in the cold. Then, as it warms and the battery becomes more charged, or it's hotter out, the alternator reduces charge To 14.2 to reduce the charges of "boiling" or overheating the battery. Batteries function best between about 60°-75°f.

 

At this point it’s just a matter of time before maxtraxs are in the bed of your truck. They won’t be properly mounted on a roof rack for the world to see like a true overlander but I see them in your future.

 

It’s a total echo chamber mod backed up by zero real world experience lol. I have friends with 10+ year old Odyssey’s that work great after sitting for a month, being used on hard winch pulls, and charging 100% off factory Toyota alternators. Mine’s 6 years old and fired right up after not starting for 8 weeks

 

That’s a testament to the battery...

What voltage does you battery say it wants for float and charging voltages?
Yes, it’s not needed but helps get the voltage up to what some agm’s want

 

I don’t know and I don’t care. It works.

 

Where are you guys putting these echo chamber mods?
Since I'm running a swing out, can I fit one where the spare used to be?
What are the critical dimensions of an ideal echo chamber?
Any Instagram pictures?

 

Pretty sure you have to donate to Brett’s Patreon account to get that kind of exclusive content!

#influencer

 

Patreon? I thought he was just on Only Fans for exclusive content?

 

Did you figure out what you want to do with your rear axle yet?

 

Still debating.

Might just get a junkyard housing, as that's the cheapest and easiest route, but seems like a bit of a waste replacing it with the same thing.

Trail gear housings aren't too pricey, and may be a better option. I keep going back and forth if it's worth investing more money in the 8" third, but I have yet to blow one up, and I doubt I'll go larger than my 34" tires. Maybe 35s if anyone ever comes out with a 285ish width 35.

I've done some research on FJ80s as well. There's several in Denver for $350, but an ARB and gears with setup would set me back like $2k. Not sure how much my 4.88 elocker third and chromoly shafts would sell for 2nd hand though.

 

Sorry if I missed? But doesn’t trail gear or ruffstuff make a truss kit? Or you crackin the axle tubes?

 

My axle is cracked at both leaf springs perches.

Both TG and ruffstuff make trusses for stock housings, but I'm not sure that would prevent the issue I'm having.

 

What if you truss it an sleeve the axle tubes, I see kits for Jeeps for inner sleeve idk if that has been covered as well assuming it has

Or just go full beef cake a get a full fab 9”

 

Don't think I've heard anything about sleeving them.


And yeah, a fabricated, full float, Ford 9" or LC 9.5" with disc brakes would be awesome, but I'm not prepared to drop that much money.

 

Idk if it’s been done, I’d assume someone somewhere has, idk def a Jeep thing, I would think it would b possible, but idk

 

easily do able.

Not cheap though.

Can get a 9'' diff for decent price used. Need a custom housing though for the right width. Then add a locker and add brakes to that plus an e brake if you want it and then figure out if you want to truss it.


so.. yeah like a 2-5k ordeal depending on how you tackle it. Which there are a ton of ways to do it with a 9''.