How to Change Front Brakes (Pads and Rotors)

Hi,
I just took a video of my 2015 Tacoma pre runner 4cyl front brake pads replacement ; please let me know what did I wrong or right or missed anything.
https://binged.it/2ZTFrck
Thank you all!
-sean

 

Just finished replacing my pads/rotors and referenced these instructions. Thanks for the help! Upgraded to TRD pads (

$135 PTR09-89111 Toyota Brake Pad - PTR09-89111

PTR09-89111) and Stoptech slotted rotors (001008772 and 001008776). Definitely feel a different up front! Let me know if anyone has questions.

 

This is so helpful. Thank you! new parts coming in a week :X

 

what made you pick PowerStop vs OEM?

 

I liked the reviews I had read...

 

You did fine... I would not use a plyers directly on the four brake cylinders. As you mentioned, there is a tool...Or, what I did, I use a flat head screw driver and pried the old pads back. Hold the pad first pushed back with a flat head, use a second flat head to push the other side.

Super easy brake job on this this rid...

For the record, I used NAPA Premium Ceramic Pads. $50, but they give 10% for AAA...NAPA makes good stuff.

 

Awesome. Very thorough

 

@LoadedTaco

Thanks, very helpful. Turned out perfect!

 

Got a set of Callahan pads and rotor for $104 shipped. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L9FLJQL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Haven't heard anyone on here mention them but were rated well on Amazon.
Gonna gonna tackle this this weekend with the help of OP's vid.

 

Isn’t that the brand from Tommy Boy?

 

I ordered and installed the same set. They were very easy to install.
I had problems with my original front brakes at about 8,000 miles. I was getting steering shaking when I applied brakes at high speed exiting freeway off ramps. I figured it was warped front brake rotors. I changed the rotors and pads at 13,500 miles. My Tacoma is a 2015 with very low miles. I changed them 2 months ago.
I did find my right front brake were missing the clip that hold the discs. I don’t know if that was causing or contributed to my steering wheel shakes.
Now more more steering wheel shakes.

 

Can I use permatex ultra brake lube ? For the backs of the pads and for the slide pins ? And the sides of the pads also ? Or just for the back of the pads and the sides ?

or specifically the silicone paste for the pins

 

I'm interested to see how these hold up. Seems really overly cheap for what you get!

 

@LoadedTaco i used this today to do pads and rotors . Worked great ! Thanks !

 

@LoadedTaco so the pads go with the metal warning clip on the inside leading edge of the rotor.

The pads are also marked with A B and two C’s , and I read somewhere that pad A is for the inside Pad on the driver side (engine side) and pad B goes On the inside pad of the passenger side and the C pads go on the out side . Do you know if that’s correct ?

 

Using this video and write up to do my pads today, hopefully all goes well! Great job OP!

 

Ok I watched the video and am planning on getting the OEM pads and rotors with new pins and clips for my 2015 Tacoma TRD 4wheel drive. Is there anything I should be looking for special. I saw where they also sell shim plates??? I didn't see these in the video??? Is this something I need for some reason? Thanks in advance. Ed C.

 

Great tutorial. Thank you @LoadedTaco !

This weekend I followed this procedure to replace: Calipers, Pads, Rotors and the hard brake line pieces that connect to the calipers. The hard brake line was badly corroded. I bought a kit from Rock Auto: KCOE137 which included just about everything except the hard brake line. Kit includes pins, clips, grease packets (for the back of the pads). I bought those from a Toyota dealer:

Part Number Part Name Price Quantity Total
47318-04110 Tube Front Brake No.8 $4.70
47317-04050 Tube Front Brake No.7 $4.70

These numbers are for Gen 2, V6, 4WD.

The hardest part of this was getting the rotor off. The ones that were on there did not have threaded holes. I beat on one side for an hour and was looking for good ideas beyond getting a bigger hammer. I don't have an air compressor / impact wrench. It dawned on me that you can use the brake caliper bolts (and bolt holes) to apply force to the back of the rotor. It worked! I was able to get the rotor that I pounded on off almost immediately. On the other side I followed the steps below and was done in 10min. I am assuming others have done this but just in case someone else is stuck here are the basics and a few pictures.

How to Remove Stuck Rotor with Caliper Bolt:

Assuming your caliper is fully off the rotor.

1) Go ahead and beat on the rotor with a hammer between the lugs (that does help this process work).
2) Apply some penetrating oil to the caliper bolt and threaded bolt hole. (The caliper bolt does not normally go all the way through during regular use so the back part of the hole had rust etc that needed to be cleaned out in my case).
3) You need a steel spacer about 1/4" thick to bridge the cap from the end of the Caliper bolt (fully inserted). I used a 1" wide chisel which was perfect. I could guide it in there, it is made of strong carbon steal, and it is relatively flat.
4) Turn the bolt until it is flush against the chisel and ratchet until there good pressure on the back side.
5) Then wack with a hammer from the back.
6) You can try this on the 2nd caliper bolt also if one bolt is not doing it. That would spread the force load on two bolts, two holes etc. You do NOT want to damage the caliper mount points!
7) Once your done, clean out the oil on the bolt / bolt hole with break cleaner before reassembly. Some people swear they should go in dry so they don't back out. Better safe than sorry.

Be careful not to overdo it!! (You could bend or brake the caliper mount point). Use common sense and watch as you ratchet.

 

The OP stated in his excellent video that he asks dumb questions but he isn't a dumb person. I agree. So here goes my dumb question.

Why did the OP remove the cap from the brake fluid reservoir? I have watched two or three other videos(one or two on Tacoma's) and no one has mentioned doing that.

I am gearing up to change my front pads, rotors, caliper pins, pin hole clips and anti-rattle springs this week.

Dumb question #2. What is the torque for the bracket he unbolted in order to move the caliper out of the way?

 

Question #1) You take the cap off the reservoir so you can compress the piston. (i.e. you need to make room for the new thicker brake pads). Compressing the piston pushes fluid back through the system and taking the cap off makes that easier.

Question #2) 21 ft-lb. Torque specs can be different for 2WD / 4WD (5 lugs or 6) so double check. I am quoting from the link below. I recalled the 21 ft-lb number from when I did this. The guide below is Gen 3 but the bracket is pretty much the same. I think this is right.

http://www.ttguide.net/installation-1082.html