2020 JBL Amp wiring and booster

I had a 19 Taco with JBL. Using the Idatalink Maestro and it worked great. The Maestro wires the input to the amp using the front L/R speakers.

Now the 2020. There is no current wiring harness or adapter.

In seeing that the JBL sound is lethargic and lacking bass, I want to put the amp's input into a DSP or just a signal preamp.

Was thinking of cutting the inputs to the JBL amp and send it to the preamp- signal line booster. Then feed the JBL post booster.

Trying to decipher the wiring is confusing. I have not found a 24 pin connector layout. I don't have the stones to just start cuttin.

I am wondering if this one has a 4 speaker input or just a two speaker input.

 

I checked the other wiring diagrams- tundra, tacoma, Prius. I didn't find a 24 pin layout

 

It's a 2 signal input (right and left channels only). I've been probing and measuring my 2019 Tacoma TRD Sport w/JBL sound system, which has the exact same connector configuration and colors, that you have shown in your pictures. With test equipment and a lot of patience, I think I've gotten most of it decoded. On the third connector, picture 3, the white & black, and green & red come from a shielded bundle and are your left and right audio channel inputs to the amp. Those are the only audio inputs to the amp as far as I can tell. The amp not only amplifies but also generates the individual front, rear, and front dash (tweets) speaker outputs, and they are all derived from just a right and left signal input to the amplifier. You must keep the factory JBL amp in the circuit in order for the factory head unit to function properly. Also, the head unit only sends a constant audio level to the amplifier which does not vary according to the volume that you set, which is counter intuitive. The volume and fader levels actually happen inside the amplifier, not the head unit! The head unit has some command/control over a data buss that it uses to communicate to the amplifier for things like volume, fader, muting, etc. What does it all mean? Well, you can start thinking of the JBL amplifier as nothing more than an extension of the head unit itself. If you plan to use the factory head unit with aftermarket amplifier(s), you'll need to keep the JBL amplifier in circuit, take the speaker level outputs from the JBL amp, and run them through line-level converters before finally running them to your aftermarket amp(s). Also, in case it comes in handy for someone, here are the speaker outputs from the JBL amplifier:

Top white connector:
large white/black wires (2) are the system ground (vehicle chassis ground)
purple/green = subwoofer voice coil1 + (pos)
purple/yellow = subwoofer voice coil1 - (neg)
purple/black = subwoofer voice coil2 + (pos)
purple/red = subwoofer voice coil2 - (neg)
green/yellow = front left door speaker - (neg)
green = front left door speaker + (pos)
blue = front right door speaker - (neg)
gray = front right door speaker + (pos)


Middle black connector:
large white and large gray wires (2) are the constant +12 Volts supply to the amplifier
violet/blue = right rear door speaker - (neg)
purple/green = right rear door speaker + (pos)
white = left rear door speaker + (pos)
black = left rear door speaker - (neg)
red = left front dash speaker (tweeter) + (pos)
yellow = left front dash speaker (tweeter - (neg)
pink = right front dash speaker (tweeter) - (neg)
violet = right front dash speaker (tweeter) + (pos)

I'm certain that those are the correct speaker outputs but I need to double-check the polarities that I have listed, just to be sure. I'll post back with any changes when I have accomplished it. At any rate, there's enough information provided here in my post to be able to easily add an aftermarket amplifier and subwoofer to the 2019 (and apparently the 2020) Tacoma TRD Sport with JBL audio system. I couldn't find any of this information anywhere on the 'Net and decided to figure it out the hard way! Perhaps this post will come in handy for someone else...

 

That was super interesting to read. I always wondered why there’s not much info on here on upgrading from a JBL audio system to an aftermarket system and the fact that it’s so complex probably is one of the reasons why. Thanks for sharing your findings!!!

 

You're welcome. Yeah, it's a little more complex than a typical OEM configuration but knowing how it operates makes it trivial to upgrade and add aftermarket amps & subs, etc. I definitely think the JBL system needs more power and better speakers & subs. Since I actually like the factory head unit ok, not to mention the integrated controls and navigation, I'm not planning on changing it out for an aftermarket one. I suspect there might be others out there in the same boat as me in this regard. Anyway, I'm glad you enjoyed my post!

 

Please post any updates. I have a 2020 Limited w/JBL Audio and want to upgrade the sound. The stereo is not loud enough or interested in upgrading the speakers if anyone notices a marked difference.

 

To answer the question of whether or not upgrading the speakers makes a difference... Listen, even a middle of the road set of aftermarket speakers will put the stock ones to shame but you'll probably need to drive them with an aftermarket amplifier due to the impedance difference. I think the stock speakers are 2-3 Ohms, which causes the OEM amp to drive them harder for more output. Most aftermarket speakers are 4 Ohms, which will cut your power by as much as half if you try to drive them with the OEM amp. Also, make sure you install them properly, do sound deadening in the doors, etc. and you'll have a completely different experience. As for a good amp, I recommend the Audio Control D-6.1200 which provides 6 channels at 125 Watts RMS per channel at 4 Ohms, or 200 Watts RMS per channel at 2 Ohms. It has a built-in DSP audio processor for setting all your levels, timing, frequency response, etc., per channel. You won't need any passive crossovers (which are lossy and add unnecessary coloration to your audio), because each driver will be on it's own channel. The D-6.1200 also has speaker-level inputs so it's really a one-stop-shop for adding an amp & audio DSP for your front and rear speakers. It even has a controllable line out for a separate subwoofer amplifier which can be configured in the DSP software for crossover freqs, equalization, etc. Anyway, good luck with your upgrade.

 

Thank you!

 

So I tapped onto sub connectors which go to loc then aftermarket amp. Bass works but not the best. Think I’d be better tapping into the door speakers or try to tap into the pre amp signal? Don’t know it will will work correctly since volume and all that happen at oem amp

 

No. The door speaker audio signals are frequency response limited and you'll have almost no power down below about 80 Hz. There's a separate sub output connector a the bottom of the OEM amp. It's a connector wtih 4 wires in it. They drive the 2 voice coils in the OEM sub. That is where you want to grab your subwoofer signal. Make sure you take the OEM subwoofer out of circuit and then tap off from one of those pairs, convert it to line-level, and then run it to your aftermarket sub amp and subwoofer. It works reasonably well but unfortunately, the OEM subwoofer signals are also frequency limited to suit the OEM sub. If you wanted to have more ability to set your own frequency response for your sub, you could take the rear door speaker signals along with the subwoofer signals, sum them together in something like a Audio Control speaker to line-level converter/summing device and then you'd have something a little closer to a full range signal to work with. The reason I recommend the Audio Control D-6.1200 amplifier in a previous post is that it has the ability to sum signals as well.

Having said all that, I've discovered a better way to get audio signals from the OEM head unit but it will set you back around $250. Pacific Audio makes a cool little device that goes in between the head unit and the OEM signals wire harness that breaks out all of your front right/left and rear right/left full range audio signals at line-level and conveniently puts them on RCA connectors! The device is able to read the data buss from the head unit and adjust audio levels, fader, muting, etc. for the signals it puts out to the RCA connectors. The beauty of this solution is that now you can run the full range line-level audio signals straight to your aftermarket amp(s). This is the route I've decided to go and I'll update this post as I get further into the project. I'm still waiting on my Audio Frog GB speakers and Pac Audio box, which should arrive this week! Maybe I should post some pics too...

 

That sounds like a good way to go about it, will stay tuned. Those 4 wires have the same signal as getting it from the oem sub’s terminals right?

 

Any updates on the install? specifically the model for the Pacific Audio device? Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

 

BTW, attached is the wiring diagram from the dealer for the JBL system for anyone interested.

 

Anyone else find it to be complete BS that we have to spend upwards of thousands of dollars to fix, what is supposed to be, a "premium" system?! I had a 2017 TRDOR with stock system. Now I have a 2020 TRDSport with the JBL. In most cases the stock system sounds just as good or better... I spent the money for the premium package just for the JBL. There is nothing premium about it! Toyota and JBL should be embarrassed

 

I'm about to start working on upgrading my own system- 2020 Limited with JBL... There's one question I haven't found the answer to anywhere so far. Where is the JBL amplifier actually physically located?

 

Behind the plastic that’s behind the seat on the passenger side
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/jbl-subwoofer-3rd-gen.650511/

 

Holy hell, thanks a ton for the quick reply. I'll be sure to make a write-up when I start tackling everything

 

No problem, on break and got email notification. Good luck on your journey

 

Best of luck, let us know how it goes!

 

Thanks guys. I'm mostly waiting on Amazon orders to arrive, and hoping they do so before time off I've scheduled for mid-August.

Has anyone discovered which wire provides the remote/"antenna" power, to be routed to a DSP/LOC/Amplifier? I'm assuming this would be behind the dashboard and not at the wonky JBL amplifier, but maybe I'll be pleasantly surprised and it's already routed to the rear.

I'm planning on running the post-JBL speaker wires through an Audiocontrol LC8i prior to going elsewhere, and I'm hesitant to utilize the "GTO" feature, as it sounds like there would be some noticeable delay in listening. From the LC8i user's manual:
"...we have equipped your LC8i with our unique GTO™ (Great Turn On) Signal sensing inputs. Once the GTO™ inputs of your LC8i detects a speakerlevel signal on its main inputs, it powers up."

I'm hoping that I can just bypass that feature of the LOC and not have to worry about it.