DIY - Build and install a Bussmann RTMR Fuse/Relay Block

I am new to using the Blade Fuse Box. When you use a Blade Fuse Box to install for example ditch lights. I understand that you would use one of the Blade Fuses to protect the Ditch Lights but how do you protect the switch side of the circuit ? Do you also use another blade fuses in the box for the switch ? Doing this would make a 12 Fuse Box actually be good for 6 accessories. Thank you for ANY help with this.

 

Much as something like a Switch-pro or spod is awesome, it limits your flexibility. Plus, I don't like their software. Rather write my own. The dream is to use some OEM buttons and somehow use a Raspberry Pi to do stuff.

 

thanks again to the OP for the detailed diagrams and instructions. I've been using my custom box for well over a year now and still love it.

Question for those of you who know electrical way better than I do, is it possible to wire in a 2nd switch for a single relay (two switches to control one relay which powers my ditch lights for example)?

Use Case: I'd love to have another set of switches in the bed which I can use to turn on exterior lights around the truck (bumper, ditch lights, side lights, rear lights) when im out camping in the middle of no where. I'd like to be able to turn on my lights from both the bed and the cab. I imagine connecting two switches to the 86 pin on the relay with some sort of diode on each + leg from the switches so power doesnt go back into the other switch could work but I'm just guessing.

I know the Switch Pro can do this (you can add up to 3 switch panels to the unit) but since I've already done the work on the bussman setup, I'd prefer to keep it if I can make it work.

 

Not an electrician, but I don't see why note. Google switch diagrams with multiple switches controlling one input. Houses have plenty of them so you can turn on your hallway lights from either end to keep out the spooky Ridgelines ghosts.

 

https://www.waytekwire.com/datasheet/46055_a.pdf

 

See post #652 for a 3 way switch example
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...fuse-relay-block.399454/page-33#post-17887831

(EDIT: link added)

 

Sweet thanks. I’ll read over that. i need to pull my bussman out and clean it up anyways. Thanks!

 

Thank you, but sadly, not the same one. The LMTV has multiple custom VECs on board and despite extensive searching this 12/24v oddity has no accessible schematics.
I have given up and ordered a different 12v only and labeled Eaton VEC. I dedicated to using one of these as I have all of the color coordinated plugs, the terminals, and modified fuse block cover.
It probably wont be till January but I'll post up the end results once installed.

 

If I understand your situation, you basically want to wire 3-way switches between the cab and bed. This can certainly be done, but it might get busy and complicated with the number of wires. So to start, think about one circuit and how to wire it up. Once you do, then repeat for each circuit. I've basically done the same thing with two switches in my shell for a dome light. See this post on my build page:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/boden-build-2015-dclb-4x4.362640/page-9#post-17887848

Good luck!

 

Just saw your post. This is exactly what I did. I actually ended up doing it at the same time I put together the RTMR. @bagleboy was an awesome source of input. I still owe that guy a case of his fave brew. Basically, I have a 6 switch panel in the cab which controls Ditch Lights, x2 20w 3"x2" pods on the ARB Bumper, x2 20w 3"x2" pods on the Left, Rear and Right sides of my roof rack. There is one extra switch (Zombie Response switch) spot available for the next item.



Ran Positive and Negative AWG 4 welding cable from a 100A BlueSea Breaker (this is separate from the 80A breaker for the RTMR) at the battery to the Bed of the truck where its hooked into a BlueSea 6 circuit fuse block enclosed inside of:

Gratury Junction Box, Hinged Cover IP65 Waterproof Plastic Enclosure for Electrical Project Includes Internal Mounting Panel 290×190×140mm (11.4"×7.5"×5.5")

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TMQRVVG

Have Sylvania Mosaic LED strips which provide light inside the cap. Additionally, x2 Quick Charge 3.0 outlets, a BlueSea Volt Meter and a power adapter plug mounted to the outside of the enclosure. Switches on the outside control everything.







So the way the rack lighting is wired on the cab switches is the signal/Accessory wire (#3 on the Contura XIV switches) is routed to the bed. Once in the bed, I have it tied into the #3 wire on the Aux Fuse Box switches using something similar to this:

$7 Ancor 230613 Marine Grade Electrical Double Male-Female Adapter (5-Pack),Silver

https://smile.amazon.com/Ancor-230613-Electrical-Male-Female-Adapter/dp/B000NI1G0C/

For the cab side relays -
The aux fuse box #3 switch wire is connected to pin #85 on each rack light relay (each relay handles x2 pods per channel - LEFT, REAR, RIGHT).
Relay pin #86 is routed to the ground bus.
Relay pin #87 is routed to each rack light + channel
Relay pin #30 is routed to a fused power slot on the Blue Sea fuse block

When either switch is activated, both switches will light up. I like this simply for the redundancy visual. Say its daytime and something were to bump the bed switches, the lights come on and the switch in the cab would be illuminated. I'd notice that way before noticing the rack lights on during the day.

Hope this helps. If you have any q's feel free to shoot me a DM and I'll try to answer/help.

 

thats some awesome info! going to have to look into this. I need to stop and think about my entire electrical setup and re-diagram everything. Its probably better I pull everything out so I can clean up what I have and make sure I'm not just throwing more wires into the mix unnecessarily. Thanks for that info!

 

I don't even want to try and calculate what I've spent on my little "wiring project"...

Shoot me a message if you need anything. Both in the same area as well!

 

Could you also do it with plain on/off switches but utilize a 5-pin relay on each switch? That way the relays act as the cross-overs and might be less expensive than 3-way switches. One way would be the cab switch would have an always hot fused 12v pos on its relay pin 30 ,
then connect cab relay pin 87 to the cap relay pin 87a,
and the cab relay pin 87a to the cap relay pin 87,
and finally the cap relay pin 30 to the accessory and from there to ground.
The cab relay would always need power but the default mode of the cap relay would still allow it to pass current to the accessory when the cab switch was on.

 

Damn...I did not need to find this thread.

My wallet is going to be even thinner.

 

Excellent, thanks for the great write up, pics and links. Answered so many questions I had lingering in so many areas... and generated so many more that I can use this info to answer in practice.

 

Great write up!

 

So many of us either have done or are currently working on variations that you will get pretty quick responses to questions so don't hesitate. There are also numerous different relay and fuse boxes that can fine tune your set up to just what you need. Sometimes mixing/matching with more than one works better than trying to find one to do everything. Some of the most useful info from various threads around the forum is identifying odd little cubbies/nitches that can be used as waypoints. Mine the fuck out of this place, it's full of golden ore.

 

When it’s all said and done, roughly how much do all the parts cost in total to make one of these? And yes, I am too lazy to itemize and add them all up. Just looking for ballpark. I do have all the necessary tools

 

Spent the last few days reading this awesome thread. I registered on the forum just now as I felt compelled to reply. What an awesome write up Tacozord. Thanks for all your insight. Although I don't own a Tacoma, this mod will be great on any vehicle. I'll be using this on my Chevy Cruze. I've been researching and finally found a way to relocate the PWM controlled low beam DRL function without harming the BCM. This Bussmann box will fit the bill nicely and sparked another idea to keep both left and right headlight circuits isolated from each other. I'll be using 4 relays to perform the task, leaving one more relay spot for future additions. Kind of an expensive mod just to move the DRL's but I'm a sucker for mods like this.
I know this is a pretty old thread and it's great to see it still going. It is super informative. I wanted to pass this info along as I just purchased one of these off E-BAY yesterday. Was $72.99 shipped. This comes with all the needed terminals and seals. I think it's a great deal. Not sure if he has any of the 15303-2's left. Seller's name is "12 volt connection" out of Gorham ME.

Also odered the Song Chuan relays off Amazon in 3 packs for for like $7.00 and change each. Just need to figure what I need for wiring and fuses and get to work. Will be a fun project.

Thanks Tacozord.

 

For anyone looking Del City has Deutch DT series flange connectors(bulkhead connectors) from 2-pin to 12-pin. They're nice in that both sides are plug connections so you do your wiring elswhere. Only the flange connector goes into the bulkhead and has male one side and female on the other. No wires to pass through the firewall and try to assemble behind the dash. They make a matching gasket. Rated at 13A.