99 Tacoma spark plug miss

https://www.ngk.com/learning-center/article/185/proper-gapping-instructions

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/ngk-spark-plugs-pre-gapped-191407/

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/spark-plug-question-186032/index2.html. Consensus is, don't gap dual electrode plugs. They claim plug and play. YMMV.

 

I've replaced the spark plugs and the wires and all the coils. Issue seems to still be there. When it sits overnight and i start it the next day... it will run fine until I turn the engine off and restart it...that's when the misfire shows up again. I have ran it for 20 miles then turn off engine. When I restart it the misfire is there. I also have ran it for 2 miles...turned off engine and when I restarted the engine ..misfire is there. Runs great when I first start it tho. Can the injector do that? The misfire will not return until I restart the engine.

 

In my experience, yes.

 

Can you reach the injector socket plugs and Ohm test Injectors #1, #3, and #5 when the engine is warm and having a misfire episode?

 

Yes it can.

@kdwellssr
This is where you will note the difference. Injectors use a coil to work and at cooled off non op temp they will ohm test fine. That is the resistance for the electricity to move through that injector and fire it. As coils wear they require more and more electricity to function as they did before because that coil builds up resistance after millions of times of being fired. The ohm test of the injector at cold will likely test within spec and then after warm up, and if misfiring, will have a higher ohm(electrical resistance)reading. I wouldn't just replace the injectors just to try and fix it. I would actually do the ohm test of the misfiring cylinders corresponding injectors like mentioned above. And then if I verify that the injector is out of spec, I know exactly what's going on. I don't like the guessing game when it comes to this stuff (though I've certainly played it plenty in the past)

 

As always @cruiserguy, you expertise and words enhance my abbreviated phone app postings and sum up the situation so well. TEST is one of those four letter words that you've got to do with injectors.

You know me and my rant about worn out injector coils and solenoids that start to fail with age as surrounding temperatures increase and the modern myth about rebuilt injectors. Injector cleaning, screen o-ring, and pintle cap replacement, (e.g. servicing) cannot repair failing internal electrical parts that are contained in a sealed injector unit.

I've personally replaced and seen people replace a number of injectors with failed coils over they years when the Ohm tests go way out of spec compared other good working units from the same vehicle.

 

While I appreciate it, no way man, I can't add expertise to your stuff. More like just going further on the testing part in case OP has access to a meter.
BUT, I can't believe now that I never noticed this before, so when an injector is sent in to be serviced the servicer can't repair or rebuild the coil part of the injector, can they? Man oh man, that's not good. Coils are gonna wear out. That coil wearing out is how we get these issues OP is likely dealing with. And that coil sees all the electrical wear and tear, the carbon build-up, increased resistance over time, typical byproducts/consequences of juice moving through it.
I guess rebuilding for a performance build then and not necessarily for repairing or correcting a misfire would be more appropriate for injector servicing.

 

Correct. A reputable service company will not attempt to mislead people by loosely using the term "Rebuilt Injectors" and actually post information on their site in attempt to clear up the misconception. Though I have found companies that are re marketing Chinese counterfeit injectors as rebuilt. We all know how those turn out.

Here's an example of a "straight up" company is not not attempting to mislead people by proliferating the "Rebuilt Injector" myth.

I believe that a an Injector Service Company will gain more customers and have a better reputation by posting information to clear up the rebuilt myth.

For Example:

https://www.mrinjector.us/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI1fj3h5af5wIVlpOzCh2KdATyEAAYASAAEgJaN_D_BwE

And..

https://www.mrinjector.us/service-procedure.html

 

I have no way to OHM test the Injectors. I have minimal knowledge of doing that. I have some kind of tester but I have only used it to test for 12V current or continuity. Don't know anything about Ohms.

 

To a trusted Toyota shop with ya! And I don't mean a Stealership!

 

All that work and it's still there on number 3 cylinder. I have replaced the spark plugs and the coils and the wires.. Then I replaced all the injectors. I don't think I've done anything wrong. I'm sure it needed all of this done. When I started it ..the misfire was obvious. I drove it down the road about 6 miles and it's still this. When the dash light came on I ran the test and it says misfire #3 cylinder. I changed the coil pack with one of the old ones I knew was good. Same problem. I really don't want to get into it again and replace the #3 injector because it was the same cylinder as before I changed them. Any ideas?

 

I would but I have no idea of where one of those are or even if one exists. I do know where the Stealership is but skeed of that place. Anybody ever had one of the new injectors go bad or defective?

 

I think I can get to them but does engine need to be running? the air cover is over some and I don't think the truck will run if I remove that.

 

The engine does not need to be running. This is just a simple Ohm test to see if the coil readings are in range.

Here's a thread when I had questions about the Ohm test.


https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...tors-they-can-ohm-test-for-a-question.606909/

 

After reading most of the thread your problem seems a bit more than just plugs and wires. Same problem happened to mine, #3 started missing. I bought new distributor wires and platinum plugs off of rock auto and engine ran great afterwards. On yours probably something else though

 

I'm not familiar with the 5vz, but I wonder if it could be a burnt exhaust valve.

 

Not sure where to set the multimeter to get the readings. it has several setting like 200-2000-20K and a spot where it shows not number on the settings. I used that spot and get reading under the decimal. like these. .04-.06-.06-.07-.06 -000. That last one I got no reading at all from.. kinda figure it to be a bad one. But my numbers are aren't close to a 13 or even a .13? any input will help.

 

When testing injector coils, I set this VOM on the 200 setting. I use a set of jumpers to make connecting to the VOM easy while getting a reading.

I've had bad ones read 0 or some abnormally high number like 20 for very old injectors.

The FSM says Resistance: Approx. 13.8 Ohms at 20°C (68°F).

As a rule of thumb I use 12 to 16 ohms for Toyota injectors. Ohm readings vary with temperature.

These 11 Ohm readings were taken testing new injectors on a very cold day.