Oldie2007 - The Little Big Red Readers Digest Renovation, Revival, and Restoration Thread.

Who's gonna put the rear bumper on Kurt

 

Looks awesome man, the shop crew pic got me pretty good this morning. Love it!

 

Probably me and some jack stands!

Last night I had to post it without the LAST pic, because internet. Check it out https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...storation-thread.569377/page-11#post-22488901

Thanks guys!

 

Good morning Mad man.
Great pics Kurt I had fun that day.

 

I had a blast watching you two BS, work, and drink. I don't know what order!
Couple of top notch guys you are!
Wish I could have had a beer with you both - maybe soon!

On to Part II tonight. I fix computer - internet craps. Spectrum will be here again tomorrow.....

 

Thanks Kurt it was fun, for a couple of apes with hammers we do aight.

 

'Better than alright, and I certainly could not have done that myself. I'm thinking the rear won't be near as much effort as you two put in. Can't tell you enough how much I appreciate it! You'll have to rock the patch in a pic in your thread!

 

Believe I got it posted

 

Well, I have to go look then!

 

Looks real nice!

 

Part II will have to wait until cable guys come. Internet is screwing up again. Maybe tomorrow night!

 

Things That Light the Thing That Goes Bump! - Phase Twenty Three; Lighting the Bumper and Winch Mod! (Part II)

OK, I got real behind with computer and timing problems, and the next several mods were done a little here and a little there, so things that were not there when I started will be there in the pix. But I had to go back and sort.

Anyway, the bumper came with round spots, and a light bar. My yellow fogs went away when I sold the front OEM bumper (yes, I did!). And, I bought myself some white SAE cut off fogs to replace them. Now, part of this fiasco is that I wanted the fogs down low, where the round spots were, and then relocate the spots up on the top bar. There was a trick on the fogs I will get to. Now everything worked, so it was really a matter of connectors for plug in, and harnessing. Oh, yes, I also wanted to incorporate a relay to switch my grille DRL off when FOG on, and vice versa. (They are high and glary in thick fog.) Off we go.

But first, (isn't there always something first?), I had to decide what I was going to do with the fender liner. I had Matt and Josh leave as much as possible, until I figured when I wanted to do. If it made noise on the way home - and it probably did! - I never heard it that windy day! So, what I had left, and what I wanted to do was secure it really well.



So, I found some mounting holes to work with that would take an 8mm body bolt, and just needed a little help from ACE and Autozone. Some corner brackets and speed nuts to be specific!





Pretty much the same on both sides, just little issues like - oops; missing chunk! Cut some from some of the cutoff waste, a little epoxy, and a new bolt!




And so on, until I could get a pretty even cut, and the liner is well supported at the front end, and nothing visible hanging down.




So, that's that, and on to the lights. Took the spots out of the bumper, and gave them a little cleaning and touch up.

New fogs came in a plain cardboard box, with sort of a harness (remember that). No paper work of course.

$110 Wayup SAE Fog Lights, 3" LED Pod Lights DOT Approved Street Legal Driving Lights Square LED Cubes Lights for Truck Jeep Wrangler JK JL F150 Ram Tacoma Motorcycle, 3 Years Warranty

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Q9JJPZH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1



One thing I learned about taking the spots out, is that nuts and bolts are a pain. This is a job for metric speed nut! (Note also the sharp angle of the mounting hole, and remember that too!)



OK, the light bar is not forgotten, he just got a new connector from my collection, and new wire that will be part of the harness to the new switch module. Wiring in, and it still works @MattCowsmasher !

Same with the spots, new connectors and wire to the box. Power is temped in these pix.


Here are the cutoff fogs temped up on the top bar. YES, I have cutoff! But, I was concerned that when I mounted them way back in the bumper, that center would be cutoff because of the bumper angle.


In my meanderings around town, I found something that would at least let me test my perceived issue! ACE again. Hard to find T bracket with the top center hole - just needed it to widen it for the 8mm mounting bolt. And the "foot" of the T lets me extend the light out in the bumper. A real bracket will be made from sturdier stock.





Is my theory correct, yes it is. Now I just have to make it better. Soon.


OK, switching gears to the fogs. Memory check as well. My first plan was to use the existing fog switch and circuit; and to steal the actual fog hot to power a relay coil. Fog On/DRL off. Simple, SPDT relay. I had one. I burned up the Fog fuse - it did not like it. I searched for answers. Did you know that every thread in TW has two thousand versions of answers that don't work for this? Maybe. SO, remember my new fogs came with a harness? Well, I chopped the fogs out of the Toyota circuit, used my new connectors for that, part of the harness and another relay that claimed to be SPDT. It was not. NOW, did you know that when I got my Yellow Fogs, they came with a switch and a harness? Of course not. And it was complete with a lighted switch, a relay ( I still had to swap), and the ability to completely abandon the OEM Fog circuit. I did that! The new switch has the little LED under the fog symbol.

I had to run this harness through the Daystar boot too (I know, out of order). So, cut all the tie wraps I had, and pull it in. I have an assortment of handy coat hangers. Red yellow black coming through)


New switch is always lit on Accessory power (where the fogs now come from), and gets brighter when ON. (pic doesn't show it well at all), so I now accidentally have "anytime fogs"!
Now, experimenting with the added SPDT relay. Fog ON, DRL off, and vice versa?



And yes, we have success! Tuck that wiring up into some harnessing, and mount it on my new custom relay tree! Two spaces reserved for another project!


And that concludes our little escapade into the "rest of the story". Harnessing pictures ended up in the control box section.

Here's a little aside on two things that I had bought along the way for wiring. Must have, or no?
Heat shrink and solder connectors combined?

$7 Kuject 120PCS Heat Shrink Wire Connectors, Waterproof Insulated Electrical Splice Terminals for Marine Automotive Boat Truck Wire Joints

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073RMRCC3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Not good "on the fly", good if you have the ability to securely hold everything in place, and you MUST really use the little curl attachment on the heat gun. Good in selective places.

I asked for this miracle stuff for Christmas, and both Mikkel and I got some! Sometimes, heatshrink can't be used for existing wires, and plain electrical tape is so "old". This stuff sticks to itself when you stretch it, and becomes equal to heat shrink, if not as pretty, is is colorful!

$36 Tommy Tape Miracle Wrap Self-Fusing Silicone Repair Tape (Pack of 6)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LZQYCTY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That's all for tonight, but you know darn well, But WAIT, there's more!

 

The Switch and Relay Guinea Pig Project! - Phase Twenty Four; Under the Hood Install (Part I)

OK, like FOUR months ago, I set out on this project, because I knew sometime in 2020 I would have a new front bumper with lights, same on rear, and who knows what else. I needed control, but was totally not willing to spend hundreds on a controller with switches, then custom plates with relays, fuses, and terminals, nor do all the wiring for that past the loads themselves. All my stuff to switch is low use, mostly off road, so the switch does not have to be "super heavy", and I wanted them out of the way - the garage door opener panel was my target.

So, for the princely sum of $95 when I bought it, I got this system from Swatow (multiple sellers on Amazon)

6 Gang Switch Panel, SWATOW INDUSTRIES Electronic Relay System Circuit Control Box Universal Touch Switch Box Power System for Truck Car SUV ATV UTV Boat Marine

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PWZFZYD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I wanted a main breaker, and the smallest more than fit my needs;

$13 ANJOSHI 60A 30-300 Amp Circuit Breaker with Manual Reset Fuse Holder Inline Stereo Audio Replacement Fuse for Overload Protection, Waterproof

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K6SDZZ2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And a boot through the firewall;

$15 Daystar, Universal Firewall Boot, Single, Accommodates 3/8" to 1" Diameter Wire Bundles, fits any vehicle that needs a wire loom, KU20040BK, Made in America , Black

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004K2285E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
So, that is pretty much a low buck system. Other stuff I got along the way was not a requirement of the system, but stuff I needed or wanted as I went.

Off we go. Here is all the stuff (to start) laid out, and the room it has to go in. (Those nice 4 place buss bars got returned - too big. The battery connectors will be used when near the real end of everything!)



Now, I used those 2 holes, and drilled at tapped a third. The middle hole got used for a bracket to mount the circuit breaker behind the box. After some trial fittings, I got the front light wiring gathered up in a loom.


For the brackets, I bought some aluminum stock 1/8" thick - this is just cut and hammer bend stuff, nothing fancy. Circuit breaker, and relay tree will be needed.


Somewhere, there was a photo of the hole being made - somewhere. Anyway it was a drill, then a step drill, then stuck the Daystar in the hole, and fished the harness, then the rear and cab load wires through it. Wires for the back went down to the door sill, and stashed under the seat.



OK, now that most of the wires go to where we are going, time to install the box and breaker. The bracket behind the box first. Then the box, and start terminating loads. The control box load wires are CRIMP (butt style) with numbered heat shrink. I messed up one, and it was my fault - not the part.



OK, there is so much power wiring supplied, I left all of it bundled after cutting it. The surprise was in cutting, it was multiple #16, not a bigger wire. Still had to adapt it to fit the breaker, so some solder and magic tape....

Speaking of no shortage of supplied wire - the power feed would reach entirely across the engine bay if needed; diagonally! The control wire from the box to it's plug reaches the driver seat easily, and the control box has 6 feet of cable!


After making the load connections, time to check it out! I brought the controller out to the hood, and fired stuff up!



And that is all the essentials! It all works, is mostly harnessed up, connections secure where finished. More to come - I made this three parts (hood, cab, rear) because of how I was working in pieces and collecting photos anyway.
Oh, these will be under hood;


As is always the case around here;
But WAIT, there's more!

 

The Switch and Relay Guinea Pig Project! - Phase Twenty Four; In the Cab Wiring (Part II)

OK, we left off at working switches and relays for the front loads, so, will presume the other loads will work. Nothing actually switched in the cab - I WAS going to connect the Dash Cams and Garmin outlets to a switch, but opted to connect to the existing accessory circuit. Saves me a switch for Rock Lights!

So, we have power pack module fished into the cab, and the controller is going to live in the garage door opener section of the overhead. Off we go! This guy.... up there.


Going to be cool at night! Lost a label, and they are mailing me a new sheet - after Chinese Spring Festival!

It becomes "obvious" that I am going to end up with multiple, small gauge Accessory power wires under the hood (I know, this is cab, but that's how it went). I got these, and determined that the coolest place is epoxied to the side of the new control box (they have a cover). So, I did.

Qishare 15 Pcs Dual Row 4 Position Screw Barrier Terminal Block 600V 15A + 400V 15A 4 Postions Pre Insulated Terminal Barrier Strip Red/Black 10 Pcs(15A 4P)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076BHZRW2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


One reason for the strip, is that the ONLY Accessory point that isn't cobbling into some other wire is the batt side of the AC fuse in the big box. One wire, OK, multiple, no. Also, all I had on hand was those scrawny tap adds that are really the crap in "mini" size - so Add-A-Tap Fuse Holder to the rescue (just order mini - something convinced me to get the selection). You get a place for the original, and for your added line as well.

$11 Nilight - 50040R 12V Car Add-a-Circuit Fuse Adapter with Standard and Mini TAP Profile TAP Blade Fuse for Cars Trucks Boats, 10 Pack Fuse Holder-3 types, 2 Years Warranty,Blue, Red, Black

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TBRM45F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Off comes the A pillar cover, the sun visor, and the center console. Fish the controller harness up the pillar, then across the roof - NOT at the front - but slightly behind. You can feel there is more room than at the windshield, and it comes through easily.




Once past the middle of the overhead, it's all open around the console, so it looks like it came from the front.

Yay! On to the console mod. I did a poor outline to cut, and could have used a better Dremel combination, but pooky and gorilla snot cover up my little mistakes pretty well. Remove the opener push button, start butchering!



Switch came with a little bent mounting bracket. I used the vice to flatten it, then used the latch and its screws to fasten it in. A little mastic on the sides of the back "blacks out" my side cuts, and helps hold it in place. I used some clear silicone sealant to close up the front.



Got to do something with that cable, right? Of course. There is a small round hole in the console frame that simply needed to be enlarged to run the cable through - then it becomes just another part of the mess of wiring above!



OK, connect the console to the old wiring and the new harness.


Then on to the passenger side, but it got dark, so limited pictures. The wires from the Cams and Garmin power plugs up in the dash, up the A pillar, and along the front under the headliner, then down inside a new "mirror cable" cover I got. (Third wire to back cam along door wiring covers.) Add-a-Circuit tap to the Cig Accessory fuse, mount the multi-plug assembly to the side of the tunnel cover.





(Amazon page no longer found for this thing - sure they have similar)

$13 PALUMMA 24W/4.8A Dual USB Car Charger, 12V to USB Outlet with Cigarette Lighter Voltage Meter LED/LCD Display Battery Low Voltage Warning (Black)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0773BYS6P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


And that's the way it is! Still more tiny details to finalize, but everything that is needed is in and running. One more part (III) I haven't got to is the rear. Soon. Because....
But WAIT, there's more!

 

FINALLY The Switch and Relay Guinea Pig Project! - Phase Twenty Four; To the Rear! (Part III)

Well, this took MONTHS to get to, now didn't it? Sorry, there was this fence, a shed, a greenhouse, and a ton of house that got in the way. And, along the way a different computer, with photos scattered all over heck. So, I wanted to re-do the stereo, which meant going under the truck, so this would get finished too! And I sorted all the pictures, and started 3 times. But I have this stupid trac pad under the keyboard that can't be shut off, and it deleted my work all 3 times! I have beaten that with some plastic and duct tape! Now this work was intermixed with the stereo, and not in real order. So, off we go!

Last seen, the wires headed out back were still coiled up under the drivers seat.



First up was to finally replace the back up LED pods that came with the bumper. I had replaced all the other nut and bolt mounting with tapped bolts. But, there was a problem; 6mm bolts were too small, so I got out my new Amazon/China 8mm tap. Problem - it wasn't 8mm, or anything close! I had to order big ass 10mm bolts, and drill and tap. So, these are VERY sturdily mounted!



I'm putting some bed lights and a little power panel in the back, in one of the cubbies, along with the other connections. Hadn't cleaned out the back since well before Christmas last year, when I started hauling all this STUFF for the house! So, I cleaned up, and made the little panel fit the big panel.





I love getting under the truck. Not. Mostly because I have a hard time getting back up. So, a bunch of tie wraps, the wires for the back and some little hose because I am FINALLY going to relocate the differential breather! I used enough ties to make sure I was good and sturdy, and flexible where needed. Of course, it is all wrapped in split loom.




(The diff breather is in the right corner)

The terminal strip is for "#4 rock light" relay, or whatever I end up putting back there. I split the relay system to 3 under hood, 3 to the back. Power up the truck, and lights light, voltmeter reads!





And now, all 6 switches DO something. Well, OK, 5 do, but it's wired.


I know, it took a while! But, I am trying to keep better track of my pix, so when I have time to sit and update my Readers Digest, I can actually DO it! As always, But WAIT (not so long!), there's more!

 

The Wheels on the Taco Go Round and Round! Phase Twenty Five; Something Old, Something New!

And Happy Birthday to me on this one. I've been hemming and hawing for a long time on this, and driving @MattCowsmasher crazy with questions for at least a year! But with his help, and some more from @Beretta4x4 and @BassAckwards, I finally got the chance to put this to rest when opportunity knocked!

New to me wheels, and new tires! Only Matt could finally help me with the right numbers. Let's go along for the ride.

I pretty much check FB Marketplace for truck stuff, because it's a whole different animal than TW, and it's not CL! And I found some 2013 FJ Cruiser 8 hole 17" in very good shape for $400. I was chatting up someone who said with some powder coat, they could look a lot like the Ray10 I really love. So, I got some powder estimates, and said, well, off my budget. But I offered up $300 anyway. He said not, and I thanked him, and wished him a Merry Christmas. Next day, he messages back - Christmas wishes give me a $300 deal! Off to the beautiful mansions of West Austin on the River!




All the way home, I'm finding myself thinking that grey will look darn nice on LBR, but I got 17"! What am I really going to do.... That's when I really started bugging @MattCowsmasher ! I was pretty insistent - I'm not cutting, not doing CMC, I keep mudflaps, and NO Rubbing
He finally (with some other inputs) got me to two size choices, and I was going to try to do it with the bargain IronMan AT, like I had. Problem - size for the 16" chromies don't exist. SO.... it's going to be use the 17" I just got, and sell the old (virtually new) tires and chromies. I went to Discount Tire, and got it priced up, and quoted, and it turned out no stock (really) anywhere. The DT guys on TW helped me out though, and gave me a higher priced Toyo suggestion - he reminded me he would price match any deal I found! I thought I'd cancel, but I found them for actually $2 less than the IronMan! DEAL! Toyo Open Country 255/80-R17 onto my FJ wheels! Warranty and everything. Pizza cutters for my Birthday! So, load the wheels up, and off we go!


Spot #1 for me?

In we go..

My babies!

Away with the old...

This had me going - the new have so much air volume, they had to bring out the big hose! Never seen that (sure most of you have)!


On with the new!


At one point, I had two techs on each side - they were interested! Most of them wanted to know where I got those Toyota wheels!

And we have happiness in Rubber!




At the Thundercloud for lunch, I still had to take a pic!

Home for some posing!


And off to Firestone to get it straight - I popped for the lifetime while they had the discount under my current warranty! Minor changes only with the new front bumper/winch, and shoes.



All right; happy camper has had a few weeks on these;

• Quieter than my old by far!
• Pizza cutters a little more skittish than my old fatties.
• The FJ wheels and grey look AMAZING to me on LBR! She's getting compliments!
• Mileage that might have been impacted by the bumper/winch has probably been offset, I still run ~15 city ~18 highway.
• The wheel wells look full, and I got a little tiny lift according to my knees.
• My new last year 245/skinny/16 will have to do as a space saver spare.
• And I sold my old wheels and tires for what I paid for the new wheels.

Are we done yet? Heck no!
But WAIT, there's more!

 

Happy Birthday Kurt

 

Thans guys, and photos are coming. Since they store on the web, I need internet - so I'm having to save up!

 

Another DV8 Joins The Family! Phase Twenty Six; A New to Me Bumper to Replace the Last Chrome!

Another deal that was forged last fall - I agreed that I would buy Brandons @05prerun82 DV8 bumper when he got his new tube bumper. Patience! It came, and I was honored that Brandon and Robert @BassAckwards offered to do the install if I could make it to Fredericksburg - which I certainly could. So, on a recent Saturday, a nice drive through San Marcos and the Hill Country out to Casa del Brandon! A sunshine morning, and parking with the only other FJ wheeled Taco I know of!


First; let me introduce the crew! Anyone reading this will know who we got! I didn't even need to supervise, Brandon helped Robert with that - and circumstances were such that none of the beverages were even consumed at the time!


The "OEM" hitch was the first thing to drop, and I discovered a little more about LBR. It was a Curt hitch, so my "sticker" for the truck that said Towing Package meant "dealer installed", as no oil cooler is present, but a high output alternator is. No real concern for now. Drop the hitch, then pull the bumper, then remove the hitch - glad Robert know what to do!





Clip off some dangly wires for the lights and take stock of what we got;


Time to fit up the new bumper.








Fasten that sucker!




And we're (he's!) done! Robert had to run, and Brandon decided after looking he needed to wash his truck. Since I confused Mr. Garmin by not taking highways out there, he refused to just go backward, and I went home a different way. Stopped in San Marcos for some Super Bowl BBQ for the next day, went to Toyota for new sun visor screws (one was missing when I did the cab work), and some cheap gas before home. Got the shackles Brandon gave me, and got a couple more shots of the finished product!



I had to fix a plate light, already done with new replacements and connectors. I drilled and tapped out the mounting holes so I don't have to get behind the bumper. Same will happen with the back up lights as I get them wired up to the new control system. So, another project I never knew would happen - and special thanks again to Brandon and Robert!

Oh yeah, the hitch wouldn't go directly back on, because it occupies the same space as the DV8 does on the side mounts. Next step to be determined.... (I've only ever used it for a flag mount - which I sold for beer!)
Are we done yet? Of course not! Why?? Because;
But Wait, There's More!