CLOSED: NST TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 supercharger lightweight billet crank pulley | crank dampner

probably not much. I’m not worried about the cutouts cause it literally wraps around the WP. And too the I’ve had the NST grey set for a long time running

I like the cutouts more cause less water will collect inside that pulley

 

I am not at liberty to discuss that right now. If you catch what I'm saying.

Give me a few minutes, and I will tell you EXACTLY where I'm going with that.

 

Spill the beans!!

 

I'm guessing test fit...

 

i have a feeling a certain state official will be peering under the hood soon and he must maintain a certain reputation within said state.

 

ooh yeah, I forgot about that.

 

I think they would be madder about the highest pulley in the engine bay. Me thinks test fitting OR maybe an issue with the normal crank pulley?

 

Alright boys, here it is. After much back and forth and months of waiting after initial proposal the supercharger crank is here, installed and running in my engine! That being said, this piece was sent as a single prototype for myself to test and run to give initial impressions, installation notes and general feedback.





The piece was finely built by NST and the quality is everything we have come to expect from them. That being said, this is not a perfect world and there are some footnotes I must add after folks begin to receive it, but first, some more photos.



Before install, I took the liberty of weighing these two to note down distinguishable differences in weight for general record keeping purposes. The photo above is the old potmetal pulley. Below is the new pulley.



The weight savings is not monumental, but when you are playing the game of rotational lightweight mass, especially for a supercharger, every aspect must be taken into account. Plus.. billet bling bling.

- Moving forward, installation is fairly standard. That being said, I must give a footnote on the install, the pin which lines up into the keyway is a hard line up if using the NST crank dampner, this issue likely affects the OE rubber impregnated crank dampner as well. NSTs personal note is to carefully press in both using the OE crank bolt. I prefer a confident fit over one which leaves question to doubt since visual engagement is everything, and you cannot see it in this such case, so MY PERSONAL FOOTNOTE from my findings, is that in order to line up both crank pulleys together securely and without leaving question that you are pressing it in wrong, is to file the keyway using a small metal file. It will take a few test "file and fits" to make it line up in there well, DO NOT GO OVERBOARD ON FILING if you decide to go this route, I cannot stress this enough! That's how I did it on mine. After the pulleys lined up and started to go in without attempting to force it due to ever so slight metal interference at the keyway slot, I took a 2x4 and a small hammer and finished pressing it in there. I test fit and removed it twice to ensure the two pulleys weren't going to be stuck together. You should put a small dab of grease on the two contact points to ensure that corrosion build up between the two metal surfaces will not occur, though I did not do it at the time on mine. Removal and reinstallation of the pulley is something I strongly advise if going this method, it's just a small extra few repetitive steps if joining both pulleys via my method. There are no pictures of the procedure I described above as it is a fairly self explanatory thing which I felt required no photos.

Finished product as promised.





Initial impressions after install is that this beast when using the NST lightweight crank dampner, their lightweight supercharger crank dampner, and their water pump pulley allows this engine and supercharger assembly to rev incredibly freely and quickly. Boost engagement if I did not have a boost gauge seems absolutely instantaneous and feels smooth as silk.

I must sidenote that immediate changes as of this most recent installation were the supercharger crank and the water pump pulleys. They were both swapped out at the same time so I cannot say if the very notable faster revving is attributed to more the blower crank pulley, or the water pump pulley.

I have passed all of these installation notes and impressions to NST and they will proceed with building the rest of the group their own supercharger crank pulleys as ordered and already paid for. They wanted to ensure the prototype fit well and everything was going to be on the up and up first. Expect a 3 week to one month wait period as they get all of these cut and QA'ed for you guys.

Thank you all for your patience, trusting the process and thank you for being awesome!

As promised, here is a sample rev video. It's short, but sweet and to the point. It will give you an idea of how much faster it revs over OE designs.

https://youtu.be/TcA0wFadJ2Q

 

^ sweeeet. Looks great

 

No, the crank pulley is not an issue as long as it stays within the same dimensions as the OE unit and does not notably alter running condition in any way. If it is the same dimensions as the OE unit though, it never will alter running condition because the size of it is what dictates how much blower boost there will be, as well as the uppermost pulley.

 

SEXY!!

 

@12TRDTacoma would you happen to know if NST plans to make that adjustment so we do not need to file down the keyway slot? Or do they plan to make no changes and stand by their position to use the crank pulley bolt to "snug" things together?

 

This new overdrive pulley is pretty much identical in shape as the NST SC overdrive kit made years ago. Only difference is diameter. I just might drill out 8 holes myself with a drill press!

Like I said before, the NST crank pulley slides on with the key hole nice and tight. But @12TRDTacoma is right. Finding the slotted key from the crank pulley too SC crank is a little bit tricky. But you’ll know if it’s wrong upon start up in that the SC crank pulley would be spinning with a crazy wobble.

It looks like the holes drilled out are off center? Before drilling out, I might just take mine off and weigh it just for curiosity first.

 

So their roll pin in the s/c pulley is oversized for their keyway.. is that what I'm understanding?

 

As it stands I have reason to believe that production will continue as scheduled to do so using the exact specs and dimensions which were on my pulley. Either modification will be required or you will have to "press it in" to snug it together as they indicated to me.

They were against filing down the keyway because that opened too much room up for critical error, but if you take off a little bit at a time like I did you will be safe. It can be a tight fit like mine still is, the key is for the roll pin to just make its way into the keyway slot. Once it is in, you can do what I did and take a 2x4 and a hammer or a rubber mallet and give it a few whacks so they will join to become one.

Just EVER so slightly!

I'm talking a few thousanths larger.

 

Post 1248
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ey-crank-dampner.615779/page-63#post-22574089

Updated with a video.

 

So if I understand this correctly, that little rolled pin in the SC crank pulley fits into the crank dampener pulley... and it's slightly too big, which in my opinion it should be or it wouldn't 'lock' the two together. Instead of forcing it, you reccomend filing the hole in the dampener slightly larger? Gape the hole a bit?

 

There is a difference between a force fit and a snug fit. By forcing in the roll pin into metal which has not been accommodated to fit it you are in a way crush fitting or damaging material to make it work, where as by filing at it ever so slightly you are creating a proper fit which will ensure you can remove it later on without over exerting yourself or risking damaging the pulleys themselves while trying to separate them.

It's the equal to self clearancing tires on a wheel well which is not meant to fit that particular size or larger than a certain amount. Will it work? Yes? Is it the most desirable and advisable way to do so? No.

It's just my viewpoint on the situation. They recommend skinning the cat one way, I recommend skinning the cat the other way. No way is necessarily wrong per se. It's just differing methodology.

 

Cool! Just making sure I had it right in my mind which hole wasn't big enough. Haven't ever taken any of these pulleys off my truck yet. Thank you for guinea pigging it for us.

 

Mine has cutouts. The rare anodized blue, from the original batch back around 10 years ago. Still good as new. Very low load on that pulley, which is evident by how the belt's contact patches are.