The NorthStar AGM Battery + Voltage Booster Upgrade

The 27F is rated at 195 RC (reserve capacity) meaning it can take a 25A draw for 195 min before hitting 10.5v. Your numbers seem a little low compared to theoretical.
195RC/60min = 3.25 hours. 3.25 hours x 25A = 81.25 aH capacity till 10.5v.
See here for converting RC to aH: http://maven0.blogspot.com/2015/02/reserve-capacity-to-ampere-hours.html

If your fridge draws 2aH (it may draw more than spec if it isn't healthy) that would mean you have 81.25/2 = 40.6 hours run time before hitting 10.5v. Your setup went 36hrs to 10.2v, which is more than 10% lower than expected. If your fridge draw was a little high or your battery was a little low or both, it would explain the difference.

 

Yea - I'm thinking it's just a potential battery health issue combined with having the fridge not all the way full. Normally in the summer isn't not a big deal as my 100w panel keeps everything topped up while parked at work so even if I only drive every other day I rarely see an impact. Winter is a different story, as I don't pull as much juice while I'm at work and need to be more aware of my wall charging needs.

 

x2... I have a Northstar AGM Group31. How often should I top it off using a battery tender/charger?

 

No idea if it's "right" or not but, FWIW, I swap the CTEK from my Shelby to the the Tacoma 1-2 times per month, generally over a weekend. Battery is a little over three years old and shows no sign of weakening.

 

Have a 1 1/2 yr old X2 battery and was only seeing 12.3 -12.4 volts when cold. Found this thread and first checked charging voltage, 14.2v was highest I saw. Got the HK 0.5 booster and saw charging voltage hit peak of 14.7v. Now the cold battery was showing little under 12.6v. Ordered the CTEK charger and after a charge session with it only saw a bit over 12.6v. Yesterday decided to run the CTEK in reconditioning mode, seemed to be in recon mode for less than 1/2 hr. This morning checked battery and it was 12.79v on my meter. Sure seems like I can't do better than that, thanks again OP.

 

might want to get it checked out before the warrantee is up. Glad i got mine checked it was going bad, got it replaced on warrantee.

 

Do you have a Northstar?? I hear Northstar has a pretty stringent requirement to file a warranty claim. They require that you get a carbon pile test on the battery, they also require that you send the readings of the carbon pile test in order for them to process your claim and give you a new battery...

Rick

 

X2power

I purchased both my x2power batteries from batteries plus....

 

I have an observation that would be nice to have some kind of clarification.

After the Taco comes up to normal operating temp, I noticed that when the air ambient temperature is cooler, the voltage output is “HIGHER” than when the air ambient temperature is hotter.

For example, air temp is 62F at cruising speed SGII reads 14.1V. Air temp is 82F at cruising speed SGII reads 13.9V.

Am I just crazy? Or is there a direct correlation?

Just wondering...

Rick

 

You meant to say higher right? But yeah Ive noticed the same. Cant say Ive seen much during "normal" temps. But I have noticed theres a fairly distinct jump somewhere around 35-40*F.

This is just off the top of my head after a few , but its something like 14.1V on a 'warmer' day here in Maine this time of year, and 14.4-5V on a colder day. Other conditions like engine temp and rpm being equal.

 

Anyone have a HKB Adjustable voltage booster laying around to sell ?

 

I’ll do a straight trade for an HKB fixed booster.

 

Any recommendations for a Voltage Cigarette thing.... Dislike checking on the voltages, popping hood with VOM to just check. Ones from box parts stores have a nice hum on the radio when their plugged in..

 

I have this one no hum and it’s pretty spot on. I also did the 12v on anytime mod so I can see it when trucks turned off.
Palumma 24W/4.8A Dual USB Car...

Palumma 24W/4.8A Dual USB Car Charger, 12V to USB Outlet with Cigarette Lighter Voltage Meter LED/LCD Display Battery Low Voltage Warning (Silver)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K16WM3W?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

 

I have the same one, no complaints and the price is right.

 

Charges the phone pretty darn fast too.

 

Tkx yall for the recommendations. Just dislike hearing the Buzz on the Amateur radio. HF and V/Uhf radios pick up everything.

 

Finally installed mine after months of sitting in my drawer

So mine didn't come with any instructions and the first time I installed I put it in backwards and the battery light on. I didn't see any markings on the PTC fuse for which way to place it so of course the 50/50/90 rule got me and I failed lol. Swapped it around and it's pretty nice, placed it on the +0.6v setting.



After initial start the meter reads 14.73 while the ultra gauge reads 14.57, for a difference of 0.16 VDC



After about 5 mins run time the meter read 14.53 and the ultra gauge read 14.38 for a difference of 0.15VDC



The setup I have is two optima yellow tops (now almost 8 years old) with a blue sea ACR; both were fully topped off and synced together before starting the truck and taking these readings.

 

I have some questions that maybe you guys would know the answers to. It's a bit of a mystery to me.

I've been running 2x Northstar batteries with a bluesea ml-acr for a few years now. I originally had them both mounted in the stock spot. After about a year and a half, the battery cage had completely destroyed the battery tray, and cracked my inner fender in a few places. The whole cage would move around so much it actually cut my headlight wiring.

So, to fix the problem, and move the weight to a more central position, I relocated both batteries to behind the rear seats. This has been a great setup for me, and my truck drives noticeable better.

However, I believe I have 1 problem: voltage drop.

When my truck is idling, all of my lights have a very small flicker. Headlights, dash lights, cabin lights, accessory lights, etc. Only at idle though. The lights could be from the main truck circuit, or even from the aux battery circuit, they still do the same thing.

I used 2/0 gauge wire from the alternator to the batteries, which I thought was big enough gauge. Maybe it's not? Or perhaps my alternator's voltage output is too low to begin with, and now that my batteries are further away, the problem has been exacerbated? Maybe this could fix my problem??

Would love to know some people's thoughts who know a bit more about electrical setups!