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Clutch problem

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by YotaK, Feb 10, 2020.

  1. Feb 11, 2020 at 5:34 PM
    #61
    cruiserguy

    cruiserguy Well-Known Member

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  2. Feb 11, 2020 at 5:35 PM
    #62
    YotaK

    YotaK [OP] Active Member

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    I saw it while I was bleeding it. Worked fine then. Just drove it to the fire department and it worked but I absolutely have to have it to the floor to work. Feels like more travel in the pedal would help. But also it seems to have good pressure throughout but has to be all the way down to shift
     
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  3. Feb 11, 2020 at 6:02 PM
    #63
    YotaK

    YotaK [OP] Active Member

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    I’m not getting any fluid loss and none through the firewall for sure
     
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  4. Feb 11, 2020 at 6:32 PM
    #64
    cruiserguy

    cruiserguy Well-Known Member

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    It'd be good to see the fork when pedal is pressed all the way to the floor and see if the fork still has more room to travel and if so does that feel any different?
    And assuming all parts are perfect and no leaks and no air coming in, only thing thay sounds like is air trapped somewhere. I'm not saying thats it, and I'm gonna keep thinking about it too. I have an auto Tacoma, but is the pedal adjustable on it? You already got it all the way adjusted then?
     
  5. Feb 11, 2020 at 7:29 PM
    #65
    YotaK

    YotaK [OP] Active Member

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    It’s adjusted most of the way out. I do need to watch the fork while someone pushes it
     
  6. Feb 12, 2020 at 4:32 AM
    #66
    maineah

    maineah Well-Known Member

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    My 97 2.7 had none my 2011 has none. The clutch master cylinder does but it's for clearance only it's not for stroke length.
     
  7. Feb 12, 2020 at 1:32 PM
    #67
    Wyoming09

    Wyoming09 Well-Known Member

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    Just because parts are new Does Not mean They have not failed!!

    If you feel you need a longer stroke Either of the parts might be the wrong ones in the correct boxes.

    Even Stuff from my dealer gets boxed wrong
     
  8. Feb 12, 2020 at 1:43 PM
    #68
    YotaK

    YotaK [OP] Active Member

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    But what are the odds of 3 sets of master and slave being bad with the exact same symptoms?
     
  9. Feb 12, 2020 at 2:26 PM
    #69
    Wyoming09

    Wyoming09 Well-Known Member

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    In this day very good !!

    I weekend I went through every Alternator at Advanced Auto Auto zone and Napa within 100 miles never got one that worked.

    Monday went to the Mom and Pop Auto Electrical shop 30 minutes and $20.00 I was good to go.
     
  10. Feb 12, 2020 at 4:34 PM
    #70
    Gyrkin

    Gyrkin Well-Known Member

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    I can almost guarantee it's your return spring.

    It's very easy to check, just remove the coil spring. To remove it put a screwdriver between one end of the spring and the mount, and pry it out. It comes out easy and isn't really under that much tension. With the spring gone if the peddal comes up and works, the spring is your issue. The pedal might not come 100% of the way up, making your cruise control not engage, but the clutch should work.

    This is what it looks like stock. You can see the big coil spring.
    [​IMG]

    Here is what it looks like with the linear spring. The connection points are already there because the 4-cylinder models use a linear spring.
    [​IMG]

    Here is a writeup about it:
    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/clutch-squeak-linear-spring-swap-tw-how-to.159429/
     
    Black DOG Lila likes this.
  11. Feb 12, 2020 at 4:38 PM
    #71
    Black DOG Lila

    Black DOG Lila Well-Known Member

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    Stock. EZ pass.Dump pass.Inspection sticker.Convict printed lic.plates.FG cap.
  12. Feb 15, 2020 at 3:17 AM
    #72
    Wyoming09

    Wyoming09 Well-Known Member

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    One more thought You never mentioned where the Truck lives .

    Just how cold is it getting ??

    This morning from the drop from 45 F to 10 F I would have said my clutch hydraulics had failed the transmission was that stiff a few minutes warming up good as new .
     

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