Replacing ball joint boots on brand new Camburg UCA's

Don't know what to say other than both my upper ball joint boots had torn somehow.
Hardly any time on the setup before it happened. (Couple days)
Camburg sent me new boots (moog's) Thanks btw.
I'm almost wondering if the alignment shop did it. Seemed like the mechanic was having a very bad day. Probably didn't help his mood when I came back to have them adjust the tie rods to get my steering straightened out.
The holes almost looked like a Philips head.
...Mysterious

 

Did you figure out why your boots were torn? I just installed mine and noticed that they are both leaking grease. The grease is coming from the fold in the middle of the boot on the tire side of the balljoint.

I suspect the extended travel coilover is driving the joint to an extreme angle and pinching the boot as shown in your picture.

RJM

 

Same problem here, less than 1500 highway miles on them and the passenger boot is torn.

 

I swear the Moog boots are no better than baloney skins. Has anyone found an Energy Suspensions equivalent?

RJM

 

I tried to get some energy suspension pollys but they didn't work
Camburg sent me new moog boots.
I put less grease and just took my time when re attaching the joint to the spindle. The boots are lame no doubt & that grease release valve is a gimmick, I don't think it works.
So far so good (fingers crossed) probably have about 6-7k on em with no issue

 

I've got the same problem. My passenger side boot got a tear after maybe 3k miles. How much of a pain are they to change?

 

Slipping the boot on is a pain... One of mine tore again 5k later
Super lame

 

Uniballs ftw

 

Same issues here passengr side leaks grease like a banchi but driver is fine. I can't feel a tear or see it because grease is coming out directly behind the joint engine side. Whatever they don't squeak and for $500 just running them till they blow up.

 

Looking at it I'm trying to figure out if I can change the boot without too much trouble. It looks like I can disconnect the UCA from the spindle without taking everything apart. Any advice before starting?

 

Put a jack under lca and have at it.

 

Thanks. Got it done pretty easily. It is a damn tight fit, getting the boot to slide on.

 

Good deal. Glad u got it.

 

Do you have instructions or a DIY to swap the boots? I have a 2018 Tundra and order the MOOG ball joint UCA's but one had a tear in the boot already. Camburg is sending me new ones but I'm hoping I don't have to take everything I just installed, off again.

 

I had the same issue. You can remove the cattle bolt and the boot can be replaced. It's not bad.

 

Thanks for the reply. So no pressing in new joints or anything yeah? I don’t have to remove the shocks and coils?

 

Moog parts these days are garbage,the old Moog parts was very good before they sold.

 

I finally got around to replacing the torn baloney skins Moog calls boots on their balljoints. Mine have been torn for a while since I wasnt aware that Camburg had a solution for this.

The picture below shows the Camburg diagram with the Polyurethane boot and a the Delrin washer they use to help seal on the bottom side.

The boots need to be requested separately if you buy a replacement balljoint from them. I didnt receive the Delrin washers when I ordered mine. But I found Nylon versions at Home Depot that I drilled out to the right size.

My balljoints were beyond shot and close to failure. There was at least 1/8 inch of travel between the ball end and cup. If you are running Moog balljoints and hearing a clunk in your front end.....CHANGE THEM ASAP!

Seriously dont wait until the ball end pops out and you end up in a bad accident.

Below you can see the new version installed. The new boots are thicker and have a slick surface for abrasion resistance. The top side of the boot extends up and over to seal against the upper control arm.

Anyway I hope this info helps someone out.

-Loco

 

Has anyone tried to replace the ball joints for a different brand like EMF or any other brand ball joints?

 

Thank you for posting this! I tried to remedy the situation on mine a few times in the last few years by first replacing with new Moog boots, second when I replaced the balljoints with fresh moogs, and installed new bushings, by getting some energy suspension poly dust boots, and I got about the correct size (Energy Suspension 13119), except the top (big) measurement is a little loose and the boots are not quite tall enough. Currently seep grease from the top a lot, but better than having a tear in a rubber boot . I am about to pull the trigger on some Energy Suspension 13010 (which look precisely like what you posted here from Camburg, plus the diameter dimensions on the 13010 are a little smaller up top, and are taller than the 13119s I have now), and I’ll throw some nylon washers under until it compresses the boot up top like your picture. Kind of BS we have to deal with this on a performance product, but if the biggest problem on my truck is having to put grease in the upper ball joints every 6 months I’ll take it over most any other issue. I’ll post pics of my finished product once I do the 13010s - hope they do the trick!



I will eventually upgrade to the Camburg X-Joints but seems silly to replace perfectly good joints with 15,000 easy miles on them with new $300 joints.