“02 TRD DBC lift and tires.

Hey guys. I’m sure I can search the forum. And believe me I tried. But I have a few questions. I’m going to lift my 02 DBC and put new tires and rims on it. I’m wanting to do aftermarket rims. I’m going with the toyo MTs.
I travel to Baja often living in San Diego and I want an aggressive tire that can handle it all. I’m wanting a 3 inch lift to roll with the 285/75/16.
What’s yours thoughts? Anybody have pics of a similar setup? Any recommendations?

 

Welcome aboard
https://www.tacomaworld.com/forums/wheels-tires.15/

 

I could care less about minor rubbing.

 

2" is about the norm seeing as how there are a few limits such as;

IFS that'll limit you to 4.5-5" of travel up front and 8" of travel in the rear.

With that being said, plenty of guys here get around a lot of difficult places with a 2-3" lift as these vehicles are plenty capable. Don't forget your larger tires will provide a little bit of lift as well.

Extended travel shocks up front, aftermarket upper control arms, aftermarket leaf pack, extended rear brake line, extended rear bump stops, and bpv bracket.

 

Here’s my DCSB with an OME and 285/75/16 tires for reference. It rubs a little bit I believe that’s due to the 1.25” wheel spacers.

 

@m3bassman
@turbodb

Tagged these guys for you OP since they don't run long travel, but go through some pretty gnarly places as shown by their pics.

They can chime in more with what they run, which I'm sure will be similar to Baja.

 

Thanks for the input guys. I’m looking at the toy tech blistein lift. It’s around $750. Are there any cheaper options that you know of?

 

The full OME kit is pretty popular around here as a ton of people off road with it.

You've also got Bilstein 5100s that are another affordable option.

From there you move up to your progressive coilovers with either Fox (in 2.0 or 2.5) or King (2.5)

Then you've got your digressive coilovers from Icon (2.5)

Then of course you've got a company that does well to valve shocks to your truck and that's ADS (2.5)

For the rear, the companies above supply shocks as well but King are the shortest of the 3 and not really meant for anything taller than 1"

A shock relocation (without cutting into the bed) can get you a 10" or 12" shock which will open up more options.

 

Short answer - that'll be a great "first" lift for you, and I definitely recommend a "first" lift. You'll likely need to do a bit more work to fit 285/75/16's, and you an read this post for what to expect: Take a read through and by all means ask questions!
What size tires fit my (lifted) Tacoma?


Longer answer...

There are really three-ish levels of suspension lifts you can install. As you can imagine, price and performance go up at each level:

1. Bilstein 5100s/OME kits - these kits provide lift, that is sometimes adjustable (at assembly time). They are generally well regarded and work well for our trucks. I'd say that - especially if you don't have a ton of weight up front (bumper, winch, etc) then Bilstein gives a better ride than OME (which is very harsh IMO). Cost - under $1000 for all 4 corners.
2. Low(er) tier adjustable coilovers - such as the Toytec BOSS coilovers. These kits provide infinitely adjustable lift, which can be adjusted at install time or any time after that by moving collars along the shock body. They cost more than 5100s, but because they are adjustable, and provide a more "customized" lift and ride (to an extent). The downside is that they generally aren't rebuildable and so have a life in the ~50K mile range...at which point you replace them - or at least the shocks. Cost - ~$1000-$1400 for all four corners
3. Racing coilovers (King, Icon, ADS, etc.) - These coilovers are adjustable like the Lower tier coilovers, but are also much more tunable internally - that is you can completely rebuild them for your situation - so you get more/less rebound (etc) in all sorts of situations. The rebuildableness also means that after ~30K miles, you replace some parts, and then at 60K you replace some other parts. It's more maintenance, but the maintenance over time is cheaper than buying new each time you wear out a set. ~$2000 and up for all four corners

Personally, I think going with #1 or #2 "first" to see how much you use them and your truck in situations that call for them is a good call. Then, if it turns out that you're on the trail all the time and could benefit from #3, only then go that route.

I started with the Toytec BOSS (link to install) and now run ADS (link to install). If I was to do it again, I'd start with the 5100's and then go to ADS.

HTH

 

Awesome. Would just the bilstein give me enough lift?

 

Thanks for all the great info dude.

 

If you max out the adjustment clips on the 5100s, that'll give you ~2.5" lift. You'll need some add-a-leafs in the back to match.

Going that route will be pretty much the cheapest decent way to lift the truck (~$400-450 or so), but when you increase the preload that much, your ride will be pretty stiff in the front. Definitely better to go with a new coil spring that is longer and designed for a lift, rather than just making the springs stiffer.

For a 2.5" lift, also consider spending another $30 and get a diff drop kit. It helps lower the front diff a little to make those CV angles better.

 

Right on. I’m thinking I may just do the toytech. The tires I want to run I think they need a full 3 inch lift.

 

There have been guys running 35's at/near stock height... You don't "need" a 3" lift. just for 33's

All you gotta do is a little hammering on the pinch weld, as long as you get the right backspacing on your wheels.

I would look into a set of 255/85r16's. A true 33, but narrower, which usually causes less interference. The pizza cutter tires are actually better in most terrain types than a fatty 33. In everything except more-than-axle-deep snow/mud, they do pretty damn good.