2020 shorted my window switch

Hi...

Issue:
Not to proud, but while doing the autolock tailgate DIY, I believe I shorted my window switches.
The driver side switches works for all windows, but not for the passenger window and the passenger switch works, but not the AutoDown/up.

What I did:
Some were building a wiring harness instead of cutting/crimping into the truck wires which I thought was the perfect solution not to screw up my truck, but I still did. I used 16 gauge wires, but they were really hard to fit in the connector and I believe 2 wires touch when they were connected. All windows and lock were working with the harness, but not the passenger side, it was fusing...
Power Tailgate lock: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/power-tailgate-lock.393110/page-5
In the picture under, this is the connector I bypassed by creating a male/female harness. It is located on the passenger side close to the right feet. The Red and the Green wires are used to lock and unlock doors.


So...
I checked all fuses related to it and even more in case, they are all good.
I found the wiring diagram, but I'm a little confuse. (attached)
PowerWindow-JAM.pdf

does anyone have an idea what to test first to solve my issue?
I find it odd that the AutoDown/up doesn't work, but the switch yes, and the driver side swich doesn't work at all.

I can bring the truck to Toyota under warranty, but I feel guilty and I'm a bad liar... I would prefer fixing it myself.

thank you for talking the time to read this.
have a good evening,
TOOL

 

If you indeed had a Short circuit protection opened or you have wires that melted till the circuit opened.

Did you smell burning insulation or see smoke.

If you did damage your going to need to find it. Inspect the switches not working

Always a good idea to disconnect the negative battery cable when doing electrical work.

Recheck the fuses with your meter.

Do you have a Meter ??

With the Schematics just take your time test the circuits not working.

Any friends that can help ??

 

thx for reply!
Didn’t smell any burning. I can check the fuse with a meter, but I carefully checked them, but I guess it be safer.
I was planning to open the doors this weekend to test the switches and current, but was wondering if anyone had a clue on what could of failed before I go further.

 

If you have not found your problem.

Always check the areas you worked on

 

I'm so discouraged...
I checked all the fuse with a meter, they were all ok.
I opened the Passenger switch, nothing much in there, but the little circuit board and all wires seemed ok. No sign of damage.
I opened the driver side switch, I wanted to pull out the circuit, but it was holding by one of the locking switch, but was able to inspect from the back and view inside, but no sign of damage there either.
In the area where I intended to connect to (passenger right foot connectors), I carefully looked all the wires and ensure none were pulled or burnt.
I decided to open the passenger door panel and inspect the motor. Looks like a PITA to remove it, but was able to inspect the connector for damage. Looks fine.
By looking at the wiring diagram, I noticed the power window motor has a ECU where the AUTO wires and LIN goes in. Those 2 function are not working. Auto does't work and LIN, comes from a Main Body ECU for the Driver side Switch operation I suppose.
I would need to inspect the Main Body ECU and the window motor ECU...
I believe I could test the wires if electric current goes to the window motor. I would know if it's the ECU or window motor...
If I'm not mistaken, meter set to voltage, black wire to ground and red to the wire I'm testing? then operating the switch to see if current is sent to the motor, etc.

 

I've tested the passenger switch through the connector that plug to the window motor.
I unconnected it and triggered the switch for each wires.
weird how it reacts... I guess it does not provide power as the white wire provides it. But when the proper action is made, the voltage dropped to 0.
So if I go with that, I got response for the yellow wire (Down), blue (up), Red (auto up or down), pink was not responsive and kept a steady 0.04 volts regardless of the action and purple was Steady 7 volts.
I haven't tried the driver side switch if it communicated with it.
tomorrow...
kind of points toward the window motor ECU.

 

If you have a good ground when your window switches are closed you should read battery voltage .

It might be possible you have a open circuit some place between the Master Switch and your right door

Best of luck this can be very frustrating.

Only to find something so very simple you look at but don`t see.

 

I’ve been looking videos and it used to be juste 2 wires with simple up/down functions. Easy to read if curent is going through, but accompanying those 2 wires there is 4 others and I’m not convinced they read the same way. Like if the 2 white wires bring curent and the other add some control some ways.
Not even sure how that would work.
Might just be as you said, it’s broken elsewhere.
I’ll bring it to Toyota, I can’t figure it out.
Thanks anyway!

 

If you are certain your vehicle has the anti-jam feature, then you should be aware that the windows always have power. That said, there is fuse to the window motor and there is a fuse to the window motor ECU. The Main Body ECU also has power even when the vehicle is turned off. Kinda late to get this info. For anyone else, this is why you remove the negative terminal to the vehicle and wait for the system to discharge the capacitors in each ECU, especially for the SRS system.

OP, the connector you were handling (IK1) has:
20A Door fuse on pin 9
Front Door Speaker on pins 6 & 7
Mirror Heater ground on pin 1
Power window switch Down & Up on pins 2 & 3
And the one you were attempting to access, pins 4 & 5 Unlock & Lock Door solenoid.

 

When you remove the juice to the system, you need to re-program it. Read your owner's manual...it shows you how to "reset" the auto feature on the windows.

 

Page 157...

 

Thanks caribe makaira!
I'm unsure if I have the anti-jam feature, but when comparing both possible windows diagram, it's identical to the anti-jam, not the regular.

When reading page 157, it seems like it's when your windows are not moving at all or the anti-jam feature prevents you from closing the window, but I can try!

My issue is that the driver side passenger switch, does not work at all. (other 3 window switches open and close it's appropriate window normally)
when operating the passenger switch, for the passenger window, it moves up and down normally, but the Auto feature does not work anymore.

I'm used to test simple wiring with 2 wires running to an electric device. When the device is solicited, power goes to it.
The window system is pretty complex with 7 wires connected to the window motor. I know what wire is use for what, but they don't seem to return current to all wires. Might also be that the problem is before it. I would need to open my drivers door and test the same wires, but they are not identical.

While get back if the above instruction did something!
Thanks!!!

 

Just spoke with my cousin, forgot he studied mechanic at a younger age. He will look at the wiring diagram and let me know what to do.
Let see what he can come up with!
I'll let you know.

 

Caribe makaira... you were right my friend!!!
The up/down, hold, wait, do 2 backflips freaking worked!!!
Everything is back to normal!!!

thank you, thank you, thank you!!!!

 

YOU ARE THE MAN! This solved my issue.
I believe it was due to my dog’s paws holding down the switch.
Guess I’ll have to put the pup on window lockout from now on.