Polishing Machine Recommendations?

he is referring to removing swirls and imperfections. If a polisher doesn’t cut it will take longer to correct the paint and remove defects. Also, it means it may not be able to remove some paint swirls/defects.

 

As ace said, cut is the more aggressive side where you actually do paint correction. Polishing is usually to finish down the slight hazing left by the cutting stage.

Here is a quick and concise demonstration of cutting and polishing:

 

That’s impressive change

 

Paint correction is amazing huh lol. You'll be surprised on how much trashed paint can be cleaned up

 

Thanks for the clarification. I'll look into the griot.

 

My old Tundra seldom got washed unless it rained. I have more time now so trying to pay a little more attention to my Tacoma.

 

Kinda same situation for me. It's really fun when you got a old car or a test panel from a junk yard to try stuff on. Still amazes me how much you can bring a old paint job back to life. I have an old junker in my driveway that been sitting for 2 yrs. I let the kids wash it cause I know they just drop the mit on the drive way and keep washing. So it accumulates scratches over time and one saturday or sunday I go out and try diffrent products out. By far that taught me alot about technique. Now every vehicle make has diffrent clear coat hardness but this is just a simple fun thing for me to mess with and drink a few on relaxing days in the drive way.

 

Has anyone tried the Harbor Freight long throw DA yet?

 

I’m going to get one and use wife’s Rav as a training tool lol

 

Using my wife's suv this weekend as a test vehicle lol. But I'm only trying out a different synthetic clay and wax. The wax I'm pretty familiar with though,

$21 collinite 845 insulator wax-easy to use carnauba+polymer wax sealant-high gloss shine+durable hydrophobic beading & long lasting paint protection for cars/boats/trucks/rvs & motorcycles (16 fl oz)

collinite 845. It's been around for a long time but its legendary, a thin coat is key. Stuff goes a looonggg way

 

Cant go wrong with the Torq22D or 10X. Also take a look at the Porter Cable 7424. I've been using all of them for years and they do just about everything I need them to do.

 

Rupes?

 

Supposedly very good machines and their claim to fame is a longer throw for faster correction. I tried one a number of years ago and it overheated and destroyed the backing plate in less than an hour. I didn't like the way it felt or operated compared to the Flex 3401's that I've used for years, so I returned it.

 

Hard to beat the 3401 and it’s forced rotation.

 

I’m a huge fan of my Griots buffer with a 2” buffing wheel.

 

Are you polishing the whole truck with 2 inch pad? Shit that will take forever.

 

No I also use a buffer with a 6” pad. The buffer with the “ pad is awesome for the hard to reach areas.

 

I use the Rupes 15 and I love it. I did do the washer mod to get the backing plate off the rubber cup behind it for a little more free spinning action, and it has never let me down.
For smaller areas, I still go to my trusty PC7424 with a 2" or 3" pad for those tighter areas.

 

Hi everyone I have a similar/related question. I'm pretty inexperienced with waxing/polishing/cutting but I want to take good care of my new (to me) truck so I guess I should learn.

I already own a corded angle grinder, a Rigid 18v cordless: impact driver, drill, and orbital sander, and a Milwaukee M12 drill/driver. My question is given the tools and batteries I already own is there an attachement or addition to the tools I already have that makes sense vs purchasing a purpose built polishing machine?

I have seen pads designed to fit most random orbital sanders, is that a good option? Also there is the M12 polisher, is there something else I should consider?

 

I would say you need to get a purpose built machine. Definitely do not use the right angle grinder.