HP Tuners for 2005-2015

From the video you sent, I would agree that you're idling a bit higher than you should. However, I should note that there is some trimming that takes place with throttle learning, especially after a reflash or battery reset. Immediately after a battery reset/reflash you'll often times find your truck will have the idle surge from ~800ish-1500 as you coast to a stop while rolling. This is normal, the ECU will trim/learn and correct itself.

If you're experiencing this, what I do to minimize the surging is right after a reset/reflash, turn the ignition key to "ON" and 2 or 3 times slowly actuate the gas pedal from "zero throttle" to "full throttle" in a smooth and linear fashion giving a slight pause between your actuation. Turn the key off for a few seconds, and then start the vehicle/drive as normal. That should drastically cut down on the time it takes the ECU to trim/learn.

If your interested, here are the idle speed targets for our Manual Trans trucks:

 

Will try that

 

I can still set you up with the TRD tune. That’s not a problem. Let me know what you’re plan is and I can advise you on what options are available.

 

Just self quarantining today...and since the TRD sc 2015 has been experiencing a loss of mpg as well as the continued running rich issues, especially at startup, I pulled a plug (denso 24) and they are sooted up pretty good. Gently resetting gap a little closer but wondering why this thing runs so rich after ovtune has provided 2 additional try's at the tune to compensate?

At wot it's gone from 9.6 to 10.6 most of the time with the new tunes and at cruise it's at the magic 14.8 but it smells rich, plugs look rich and fuel economy has dropped. Ideas?

As a side note...one spark plug wouldn't allow the coil to set down properly and now, although it turns it doesn't want to come out. Yikes!

 

Have you considered a bad 02 sensor?
How many miles on it?

 

When was the last time you changed your plugs? If your plugs are in as bad as shape as it sounds it may take a little bit to burn off the excess gasoline which has been washing the cylinders down. Step down to a

$9 IKH22 Iridium Power Spark Plug, (Pack of 1)

IKH22. We have all discovered that IKH-24 is overkill in just about every other power adder instance for this truck. I probably run one of the higher power combo of mods here and I still use IKH22.

$12 IKH24 Denso 5346 Spark Plug

IKH24 is too cold.

 

Wonder if I should step back to 22s still running 24s here

 

Try them and datalog.

 

I don’t see running 10.5 at WOT a problem really. Unless you have the truck on a dyno, I’d rather be safe. Do you have cats?

 

I fell for Torspd suggestion to go to a colder plug when it was laying over at shift points. When pulling the 22's the electrode was almost non existent, so I put the 24's in about 4-5 months ago hoping that would help with the additional boost of the 2.6 pulley.

Lucky me today, the foam insulator from the socket has stuck around the plug which I didn't notice until trying to get the coil back on and after 2 different sockets losing it on the same plug. Gonna be fun retrieving those!

As you all know, the drivers side is best done by yanking off the charger and I think I'm going to wait a few more months on that and do the annual maintenance on the sc while it's all off and then go back to the 22 plugs.

Ovtune, the truck has 130,000 miles on it and I thought I'd replaced the 02 sensors several months ago but can't find any ppw showing I purchased some so it may have been my sky redline, so maybe it's time for those? Several weeks ago it set a code that I used the aeroforce gauges to turn off (p103?) that when referenced referred to a possible bad mass air sensor or cam position sensor, and it had come on a few months prior to that as well when going 7000 miles between oil changes.
I'm still at a loss on how to get this to not idle so darn rich as well??? It's got the qtr panel at the exhaust looking like a diesel and it doesn't come off with anything I've tried.

Now...back to that stupid socket boots stuck down there on the plug...

 

Long pick or long needle nose pliers.

 

find something that will fit down in there, get some tape, wrap it around the end a few times then wrap it the opposite way so the sticky side is out

 

This has saved me many times..

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After buying a longer 1/2" socket that would go over the plug with the stuck boot on it I was able to remedy that. In my 150 years of wrenching I'd never had that happen!

I reversed the frp mod and I guess in a few months (if I survive the corona virus ripping me a new one) I'll go back to the 22's and see if that helps things.

In the meantime...OVTune, I'm still willing to drive over and let you work this over in person. It would be a feather in your cap to tell folks you tuned a 500whp Tacoma, right? (So we fudge it a little bit...)

 

Well you run more power considerably more over the recommended 75-150HP which is advised when running a cooler plug, so I actually think. You should stay with the 24s.

 

So, at what point does the colder plugs apply?
I know a lot of us think we will stay at a certain level and then keep ramping it up till something happens unforeseen and then when it’s our dd our butt puckers a little.
With the ovtune, URD LT’s, cai and a 2.6 pulley I was hoping to get to phx this last winter on a cool night and hopefully get deep in the 13’s on a run what ya brung night.
Right after Thanksgiving I lost 2 grandkids in the Tonto Basin flash flood incident here in AZ and my life got turned a little upside down. A few days ago the other grandfather passed away unexpectedly and that threw me another curve ball.
Still working on getting the truck solved and I’m not sure exactly where I’m at for power though I’d expect on a 50 degree night in lower elevation I’d be pushing 385 hp at the crank and so I thought I’d try the colder plugs. Not sure if I’m at the power level to really need them?

The front cats are gone but the rear cats are still there.

 

It doesn't apply unless you are making some 150HP over the OE power ratings. Some of us make over 400 horse over the crank and do not need the

$12 IKH24 Denso 5346 Spark Plug

IKH24. Kelby on the other hand (Mightytacoman) makes some 250 horse or so over original ratings so in his case he would likely benefit simply so the plugs can draw away heat more effectively from the combustion chamber. For the rest of us... It's a pointless venture.

 

SnapOn, and possibly others, make a magnetic spark plug socket. I have one. No rubber to be left around the porcelain.

 

I like using rubber around my porcelain. Protects things better.....

 

Touché