How to: Front shock/spring removal

Will 3rd gen coil assembly fit on 2nd gen? Looks like it will, but wanted to consult the Taco experts before I start wrenching. If it matters I would be putting 3rd Gen OR coil over assembly on 2nd Gen Sport truck.

 

Yep, all bolts up just fine. OR suspension is a little more cushy than the sport. Also, 3rd gen parts may lift your truck slightly. I got about 1" of lift from the swap.

 

Does the retaining pin need to be replaced or can it simply be reused?

 

Tried searching the thread and didn't find anything. My castle nut is larger than a 19, anyone have this issue? Do you know what size it was?

 

cotter pins should always be replaced.

 

when i have a nut that is bigger than the socket i am using, i grab a bigger socket.

 

So when I go to remove the nut on the sway bar end link it moves the bolt as well like they fused together. Any ideas to break that union?

 

The oem links have a spot to put a hex key to keep the stud from moving while you remove the nut, pretty awful design. Mine were very rusted. Had to use vice grips and impact gun to get one of em off, but trashed the boot. I’d recommend buying a new set of end links and cutting the oem ones off if you’re doing this job and you live anywhere that uses salt. I went with the greaseable moog ones that have wrench flats. I know they have mixed reviews but I haven’t had any issues over 30k miles or so and weren’t too expensive

 

Question can you fit king oem off road shocks without lifting your truck ?

 

This write up is very detailed, but I had the worst time with this technique. I ended up giving up and not getting my coil overs swapped.
I had a very difficult time separating the upper ball joint from the spindle. I had to get a pitman puller from the local parts store. Finally got that and then there was so much tension on the castle nut that the whole ball joint post was spinning. Used a bottle jack to adjust the LCA, and finally got that. Then my rigging to keep tension off the brake lines failed (zip ties are not strong enough). Had to holler for help from my wife and rigged it up differently. Decided to keep going. Then I couldn’t get the lower shock bolt out. So I gave up and reassembled.
Went to move my truck and the abs light is on. So I must’ve tweaked the sensor in the process.
In hindsight I’d suggest the method where the cam bolts get loosened and LCA gets disconnected.

Edit: I watched a video on this technique this morning to see what I might've missed. It looks like you can unclip the ABS wire in a couple spots and that'll save you from trying to rig something up to support the spindle to keep tension off that ABS wire.
My ABS wire must be shot. Looks like an easy swap out at least.

 

Any way we can get new pictures or links? Links seem to be dead

 

Use the pics on page 8 of this thread.

A couple notes from doing this yesterday:
-Take off the front skid plate/lower engine cover. Its four bolts and will make life a ton easier with moving the sway bar around.
-If you have a lot of miles, consider replacing sway bar bushings as it would be quick and easy.
-Consider cutting off the sway bar end links. I was able to get the connect between the spindle and the link off ok but where they connected to the sway bar it was a nightmare. I was unable to get one off any other way, wish I had planned to do that as they aren't very expensive and all four boots were trashed when I started. Required a mid-job run to the parts store, which is a 40 minute round trip for me.
-If you have a taco lean going on, its the perfect time to add the spacer. My truck was sitting about an inch lower on the left. I added 3rd gen coil/shock assemblies w/ the spacer and the truck sits perfect now.

All in all, it took me about 2-3 hours, but I wasn't working consistently throughout that time. The tools list is pretty accurate but I needed a 12mm socket for the skid plate and a 10mm for the ABS line to give some extra slack. Also, some PB Blaster as my truck is 15 years old.

 

If you drop the LCA a bit, until the upper shock mount wiggles, the bolt should be easy to get out. I used a mallet, took about 2 swings.

For the upper ball joint, I hit it with a hammer and piece of would. Worked great. I would say the most difficult part is the ABS wiring and not stretching it. I was lucky that a neighbor walked over when I was doing the left side as that was a bit more difficult with the Taco Lean Spacer added.

 

too bad you’re not in Vegas or I’d bribe ya with Beer to help me do mine front & rear this weekend, I’m totally nervous about doing this as I’ve never done it. Lol. Lol.

 

Crazy glue’ lol

 

Harbor freight.

 

Ok. I guess this is a stupid question otherwise why wouldn’t everyone be doing it I suppose?? But why can’t I take out the upper nut and lower the LCA down and just simply pull the old shock/strut out and slide in a new one?? I haven’t done this until this upcoming weekend so I’m sure it’ll all make sense once I’m in there and bleeding after a few beers and cuss words but hey?? Lol. Lol

 

Excellent write up. Thank you!!