2TR-FE buring oil

My rings lost retention. There was just nothing left of then really. Scored the Block enough to have to bore her 40 over. Now it's all forged internals and hastings race rings

 

How many miles on it? Also I was under the impression that the 2tr-fe has a forged crank and rods already. Is this not the case or did you also go to forged pitons

 

My truck had 276k km on it at the time the engine was pulled. I went to cp forged pistons and we used hastings rings. I got a deal on the pistons so I was like why not. I might boost it one day.

 

For a DIY'er - What is the method for checking if the issue is most likely oil rings, or valve guides/seals? Would like to start in the right direction, even if the final conclusion is a full rebuild.

I'm burning 1-2qt per 300-miles now. 156k-miles, running Mobil 1 0W20. Cold & dry compression is 150+ Truck was burning closer to 1qt every 1,500-miles last year, so the situation is definitely going downhill.

 

A cylinder leakage test will tell you what you need to know

 

To be losing that much oil, it's definitely the rings. The valve seals wouldn't be letting that much by.

 

Thank you for the info. Should be an interesting find, once I get close to the cause.

 

how many miles were you at when you were burning 1 quart per 1500? i think I am currently at about 1 quart per 800-1000 currently. sitting at 200k miles, just had my frame replaced and otherwise the truck is running great. contemplating my next moves.

 

Sorry to re-open this thread after almost 2 years of inactivity and over 5 years of posting, hope y'all still alive and doing well lol

But I am going through this issue and after reading 4 pages of posts, I did not see any conclusive cause to why my 2006 Tacoma 2.7L 2TR-FE engine (5 speed manual) is burning so much oil.

This problem started around a year ago at 210K miles when the "check engine" light turned while driving. I checked the oil and it was dry (just the very tip of the dipstick had black oil). I had driven around 4k miles after my last oil change when that happened. I typically did oil changes at 5k (factory rec), using recommended conventional 5W-30 oil before that. Ever since, I have been doing the oil and filter changes at 3k and using 5W-30 synthetic blend high mileage oil (usually Castrol, or Valvoline) but I doubt that makes a difference to the burning oil problem.

I posted about this recently and someone suggested it was the PCV valve but also reading this thread and other info online, I see it is the valve stem springs and seals. I want to know whoever went through this, what was the cause or what fixed the issue? It's been a while now and y'all either fixed the problem or got rid it lol so how did y'all fixed this issue? I will be replacing the PCV valve hoping it's that simple. Valve stem springs replacements seem more complicated and pricey but if that's really the problem, I'll have to do it.

I hope I hear from anyone that went though this and fixed the problem.

Thanks! And happy 2022!

 

As suggested before, you might do a compression check and/or leakdown test. I heard the rings can get carbon and stuck in the pistons (not moving freely) and this can cause these engines to burn a lot of oil, supposedly this is more likely to happen at high mileage if run only on conventional oil.

 

I tore down a 2tr from an 09 with 185k on it a little over a year ago. The oil control rings were stuck right to the pistons, as some others have noticed and reported. I didn't do the tear down on my old trucks engine, but I did speak with the guy who bought it and he said the oil control rings were solid carbon and that the pcv was buggered. Bad combination there, leading to a quart of oil every 600 miles. If you're losing a quart every 4k, it could be the valve seals, but I would do a leak down test first to see what results that yields. My old truck tested fine on the compression test, but failed the leak down test miserably.

 

162k using only 0-20. Never 5-30 conventional. Fingers crossed. I’d run a 5 minute flush and let it drain overnight. Refill with this Rislone shit and 0-20 then change the filter again in a week or two

 

Early 2TRs were spec’d to use 5w30 so that could be why he went with that flavor since he has an 06. For example my 09 called for 5w20 and after swapping in a 2005 2TR, its now getting 5w30 instead

 

Been using 0-20 since new and by the grace of God my engine is clean as a whistle. Learned also with that Fucmomo oil drain valve that you can flip the switch for a moment and watch a teaspoon or so of water come out after stretches of damp weather to help stop oil foaming

 

First time I've hear of this - anyone else have this experience ?

 

What oil type and brand of oil did you run in the truck you said had the stuck oil rings?

 

Before it started burning that much I was using 0w20 Mobil synthetic. It wasn't worth the money topping it off that often with expensive oil, so I switched to the bargain bin stp 5w30 that was like 5-7 bucks.

 

Maybe try the pvc and if that doesnt work you might try valvoline premium blue restore. It's a really high detergent oil that I think is only available through cummins or Volvo semi truck dealers and similar places. It is diffrent that normal valvoline premium blue. It was developed to unstick rings in cummins engines. It's pretty pricey but still cheaper than a rebuild.

 

Came to recommend this. Allegedly it’s also mostly ester based. I can’t make any comments on results but I’m curious to if anyone on here will have any luck

 

Anybody with gummed up oil rings have pics of the rings or pics of how clean the engine internals are under the valve cover?