Ken the electrical guy Q n A

Thanks for the quick reply, Ken!

I went and tested as you described:

Ohmeter set to 20k. Pin order left to right: P1: white/black, P2: white/blue, P3: blue/black, P4: green/yellow.
Off: P1: 1, P2: 1, P3: .26, P4: 0
Low: P1: 1, P2: 1, P3: 1, P4 0
M1: P1: .01, P2: 1, P3: 1, P4: 0
M2: P1: 1, P2: .01, P3: 1, P4: 0
High: P1: 1, P2: 1, P3: 6.4, P4: .08

Also, I definitely wired the new connector the same way as the original...but maybe the new resistor is wired differently?

 

also, if this schematic is correct, then the problem is M2 is open. So maybe that wire is bad but it appears that the schematic doesn't paint the wires in the same color code as the actual connector. Any idea which actual wire is the dark blue one from the schematic?

 

I would go back and check it again with the meter set to a lower range. 20k ohms at 12v gives less than a milliamp to run the motor, so those resistors are going to be way lower value than that. I think the results will be more informative that way

 

I went back, set it to a lower range and figured out pin 3 (blue/black) had a bad connection. Fixed it and it's all good now, thanks guys!

 

Thanks for the help bud .

 

Right on!! Glad we could help

 

So today I went back to clean up the connections and tuck everything away. I heat-shrink soldered, went to test and low and behold, the same problem - M2 is blowing on low again. So I get the ohmmeter out, suspecting the same problem (bad connection) as last time but the wire is getting a solid connection all the way from the control dial to the resistor plug. Maybe my "fix" last time was false and the real problem still remains.

So with the ohmmeter on 200, here's what I'm getting, left to right: white/black, P2: white/blue, P3: blue/black, P4: green/yellow.

Off P1: 1 P2: 1 P3: 26.8 P4: .3
Low P1: 1. P2: 1 P3: 1 P4: .3
M1 P1: .8 P2: 1 P3: 1 P4: .3
M2 P1: 1 P2: .7 P3: 1 P4: .3
H P1: 1 P2: 1 P3 113 P4: 2.6

Thanks in advance!

 

also, it's my first time using these heat-shrink solder connections...maybe they aren't doing me any favors?

 

My experience with those is that you need something that gets the perfect temperature. What happened when I tried to use them was i would end up melting the heat shrink as I got it hot enough to melt the solder. Double check that you didn’t melt through and they are making contact. Lemme know what you find

 

Will do - I may just solder it traditionally. The wires are definitely in contact at the moment, but maybe not enough.
Did you gather anything from the resistance numbers I posted? Its baffling that it was working the other day just fine after I discovered a bad connection...

 

Off position P:3
26.8 ohms ? I’m saying there’s an issue there

 

So I went back and soldered it...no changes: M2 is still blowing low. At this point I think I may just live with it unless you have something simple I could try, Ken? Should I bother trying a new resistor or something else?

 

I'm looking to get rid of the alligator clamps and add a plug to my

$91 Viair 88p Portable Compressor Kit (12V, 120 Psi, Forup to 33" Tires)

Viair 88p but have had trouble finding a good plug. I would like to mount the plug in the engine bay so it needs to be waterproof as well as sized for 14 awg wire and able to handle 20 amps. What I'm thinking is to use a metripack connector with dust cap. Are there any other good options out there?

 

I use these a ton. Add a fuse and some ring terminals and you're in business. Always wire it so the hot conductor is shrouded though.

$12 SDTC Tech 2-Pack SAE Extension Cable 14AWG 20A SAE to SAE Quick Disconnect Wire Harness Dual SAE Connectors Power Cord with Waterproof Cap - 3Ft / 1m

https://www.amazon.com/SDTC-Tech-Di...rds=SAE+connector+14awg&qid=1585774159&sr=8-4

Anderson powerpoles are another good option, but pricier.

 

I had looked at the SAE connectors but wanted something that I could mount so I don't have any loose wires bouncing around and the 15/30/45 amp powerpoles do have the ability to be mounted but no one really offers any type of seals for them. The larger SB50 powerpoles have seals and mounts but only go up to 10 awg wire.

 

Hey ken, could you give me a bit of advice? Hooking up a ch4x4 on/off switch for my rear diff locker and it doesn't seem to work. Maybe I just need another set of eyes on my wiring. The only thing working is the lower text LED. When pressed, the upper indication LED doesn't turn on nor does the diff lock indicator on the gauge cluster or the actuator respond. The fuse is fine. I'm a bit at a loss. Thought this would have been a bit more straight forward of an install.

Bit of an update: I didn't realize until I drove around that my power windows, air and A/C, and Clutch cancel don't work. Along with that my ABS and parking brake dash lights are on. I have no idea how this happened, but it was after I worked on this switch. There was a point when I got to wires wrong with the switch. This is turning to be a real pain in the ass.

Another Update: Never mind all this... blew IG1 No.2 fuse. Everything works now

 

Hey bud, If you are keeping it inside the engine bay I’d think you’d be fine with most connectors. Most connector manufactures make multi wire connectors that go up to 12 gauge. I wouldn’t over stress about being water proof. Water resistant maybe but water proof shouldn’t be necessary. I personally wouldn’t hesitate installing an Anderson connector in my engine bay which come with covers. There are quite a few mounting options out there so I wouldn’t get hung up on finding a connector that has a dedicated mounting hole but if I’m not mistaken some Anderson connectors have them. If you want to send a me what you would like I use I can check them out and let you know what I’d do with them.

 

Hey bud, first off I enjoyed the play by play updates as you problem solved. Sorry for getting back so late I’ve been really busy at work and I don’t get too much downtime. Glad you got it working and congrats on your locker

 

Hmm have you looked at the connector that plugs into your hvac control center? That might be my next move. It’s kind hard without being there with you but there is a solution bud. Some times they evade you with all their might but the solution is out there.


so my suggestion is test what you can before you replace parts. Double check everything and take your time.
Remove connectors and test continuity from connector to connector. I like to have someone wiggle the wires when I test some times because I’ve found wires with a cut that only shorted when you hit a bump or some time of force to the vehicle.

anyways hope that helps some...
Keep me posted