What Have You Done To Your 2nd Gen Tacoma Today?

Traded a spotting scope for a leer cap just for the Yakima rack system. Got it installed on my cap. Easy least.

 

For those who have done this, what do you do with the vapor barrier? Remove it completely, place it over the sound-proofing?

 

I just tossed mine. Figured the mat will basically do the same job.

 

It should be. There's plenty of room for it. The only unknown to me is the amperage rating of the factory horn system versus the amperage draw of those horns. I'm going to research it at some point as I don't like the factory horns. BTW, did you know there's a baffle on the factory horns that makes them quieter? It just unclips off the factory horns.

 

Added some much needed light to the engine bay!

 

I covered my doors, so I think I'm good. If I would have left the holes open, I might have considered putting it back.




This video will show you how to to create a template of the inside of the door using . plastic wrap. I was able to install the sound deadening in one piece using the template.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h3EXuHlBy4M

If your interested in the products I used here is a shopping List:

$48 New 3-Ply! ArmorDillo Strong Easy to Use Hardwood Floor, Hard Surface Protection Film (24" x 200')

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DFNS29O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Noico 80 mil (2 mm) 36 sqft (3.4 sqm) car Sound deadening mat, Butyl Automotive Sound Deadener, Audio Noise Insulation and dampening

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00URUIKAK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Noico Red 150 mil (4mm) 36 sqft (3.4 sqm) Noico Liner Car Heat and Sound Insulation,Heat and Cool Liner, Self-Adhesive Closed Cell Foam (PE Foam)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TKXMPH7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

$18 Professional Grade Aluminum Foil Tape - 2" by 210 Feet (70 Yards) 3.6 Mil - High Temperature Tape - Perfect for HVAC, Sealing & Patching, Hot & Cold Air Ducts, Metal Repair, More!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0778PTNHK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1

$45 Fiskars Rotary Cutter 3-Piece Set - 45mm Stick Rotary Cutter for Fabric, Cutting Mat, and Sewing Ruler - Craft Supplies - Gray

https://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-95237097J-Rotary-Sewing-Cutting/dp/B000B7K9UI?ref_=ast_sto_dp

$9 FastCap Long Nose Permanent Marker with Wide Chisel Point for Tool Foam Tracing - Perfect for Contractors and Technicians - Black, Bold 3mm Tip, Thin 1 mm Tip - 80553

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006SJHN16/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

HEEPDD 7PCS Leather Cutting Dies Set, Circular Handmade Puncher Leather Cutting Mold Die Leatherware Craft Treatment Template Cutter Crop Punching Tool

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07V4S516M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(I put a putty knife over the dies and waked it with a small sledge hammer to make the holes)

$16 CARTINTS Wallpaper Roller Seam Roller Steel Hand Roller with Anti-Slip Handle, Ideal for Car Audio Sound Deadening Application, Wallpaper, Vinyl, and Home Decoration

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TCDXRG8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Not today but last weekend... Installed the SPOD and wired the Caliraised bumper bar light and Baja Designs fog lights to it.




next step switches

 

Just tossed on a used OEM roof rack purchased from another TW member. Thanks a bunch to him for a fair deal.

 

Glad it's working out for you man! As for the ABS CNC cut ones, that's a secret that you'll all be seeing soon

 

It must be pretty trick/intricate. ABS is super easy to form and for it to require a CNC it's gotta be trick.

 

Morning from Alberta everyone.

First post, so I'll start with the positive than jump right into the negative.

Ready for some northern canada exploring once this cold weather frigs off. Rigs prepped and ready for another adventure.

However, for the negative... My driver side heated seat has stopped working. Light still turns on, passenger side works fine but no heat on driver. Multimeter shows 3.6 ohms when I test harness.

Any ideas on this fix?

 

It requires a few things done to it that a simple forming wouldn't accomplish. Will be posting a dedicated thread about it once I get a working prototype in but will also post some pics in here .

 

I love fabricating new ideas. I'm looking forward to seeing what you come up with.

 

I'm pretty excited about it. Its been in the works for a few weeks now and its killing me that I cant post much about it just yet. It's so close! The reveal will be soon. I think it will be a great product. It was originally just going to be a one off thing to solve an issue I had and some of my buddies with tacomas saw/heard about it and were asking if I could make one for them too so then decided what the heck, may as well make them professionally and see if everyone on here had some interest. I'm hoping to get my prototype by the end of this week and if everything goes accordingly then I'll be able to start a thread on it.

 

Yeah I’m personally super stoked and looking forward to seeing the big release. This is all going to help me tremendously in outfitting my truck so that I can finally have the needed storage to make some extended camping trips with my daughter.

The timing couldn’t have worked out better when combined with the Alu-Cab group buy that I just informed everyone of over on the GB thread.

 

Couple questions.

1. Test the input and output of the other seat heater, do you get the same resistance?

2. You have resistance, I’m assuming you have continuity, but I assume and then I feel dumb for assuming.

3. Do you get 12 volts to the seat end of the harness when the switch is on? Maybe you have a breach in the power supply to the heater but the heater element itself is fine.

 

They snap into the headrest mounts. Smart phone holders for the rear pass - kids for trips

 

1. Same resistance

2. My dumbarse should've tested continuity prior to posting. 12 volts to the seat end of harness on passenger side. 0 to the driver side. Must have a breach.

Not too sure where to go from here?

(Mechanically I'm alright, electrically that's a different story... any help is greatly appreciated).

 

The first place I'd look at is the owners manual for the truck or the underside of the fuse box cover to find out if the driver and passenger seat heaters use a separate fuse. If they're separate fuses check the fuse for the driver's side. The second place I'd look is actually the same place, I'd be looking to find out if the factory seat heaters use seperate relays which would also be in the fuse box. If the fuse(s?) and relays (?) are good then there is a breach in the wire somewhere.

To look for a breach I would first find out what aftermarket accessories are on the vehicle. If anything is mounted to the floor that's where I'd look first. Then I would see what electrically those aftermarket accessories were attached to. Next I'd follow/trace out the harness that the heater wires are in and when I came across a plug I would unplug it and look at both sides of the connection terminals. After that first plug it'll probably be very difficult to trace and a wiring diagram would probably be needed.

I would also check the resistance to ground on the seat heater with it unplugged because even if it shows the correct resistance within itself that doesn't mean that it doesn't have a short to ground inside the seat.

 

RE: ideas on seat heater not working

Maybe wear pants?

(Sorry, couldn't resist!)