Need Advice on How To Build My Rear End

Hello LT guys, hoping to get some input from those with more knowledge than I have. Recently picked up a mid travel setup for a steal, for my front end. Running the bolt on King’s for 1st gens, a set of Icon UCA’s, and have gusseted spindles. Looking into what I plan on putting in the rear because I currently still have my old Bilsteins there for now. Long travel is the goal. Until I got a killer deal on what I’m running in the front I was planning on getting a TC Kit. Now though since I’m in the market for some rear shocks, I’ve been considering the possibility of building my rear end first. Don’t know much about the rear end, as most of my research has gone into the front so I have a few questions. Was looking into getting 10” 2.0 resi’s with adjusters and doing a rear shock relocation through my bed. Obviously it would be ideal to run, shackles, new leafs, bedsides etc. but what do I really NEED to get it up and running besides the shocks themselves? Haven’t heard of many guys building the rear first, is there a reason why? Will I run into any problems doing that? If anyone sees any problems with this setup, or has some better recommendations, all advice is welcomed. Thanks!

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/anthonys-99-tacoma.175933/

This truck went through a couple stages - you might want to copy him until longer springs are something you are ready for.

 

Nothing wrong with getting the rear sorted first. Typically cheaper than the front.

I have F67 leafs, 12" shackles, 16" bypass shocks and it works great for me.

I have some Fox 2.5 smooth body shocks I can let go if you want to go that route.

 

Squats

 

Thanks, super helpful build. Think I underestimated how big I wanted to go in the rear. Most likely gonna go with something closer to 16"s, so I'll wait until new leafs and shackles are in the picture. Theoretically could I still run stock bedsides with something like that?

 

What size? So tempted, but I think I have to remain loyal to King. Sweet build though, good inspiration for what I'm looking to do.

 

That rear end is already built, just need to get her dialed in

 

Whoops, these are 2.5" x 15" (originally 14" with 1 spacer removed). Work great, rebuilt and revalved maybe a year ago. 400 shipped

 

If anyone can answer one more of my newbie questions that'd be great. I'm decently comfortable welding, did my spindle gussets and they came out fine. But if I'm going through the bed I'll most likely have a local shop design a cage/mounts for me. From my research I've noticed there are probably no pre fabbed solutions for this. As I said up above, looking at 16" bypasses now, not sure on leafs and shackles yet. But would you recommend having this bed cage accompanied by something like the TC weld on rear axle shock mounts? Or is this unnecessary?

 

Will definitely keep these in mind, now that I plan on going bigger need to sort my leaf situation first. Thanks Jon!

 

I've heard good things about H70 deaver springs, but I have no experience with them.

I've heard bad things about F67 springs but I totally love them. No complaints here. Maybe not a good idea if you want to tow a 20' trailer or a Suburban.

Ultimately, tuning the shocks is key.

 

For a regular cab I’d say F67’s may be good - E30’s which are the same as the older name H70’s will probably give you a little too lift much unless you're running lift spindles. TC makes basically everything you'd need for these:

https://www.chaosfab.com/accessories/1996-2004-Tacoma-Front-Spring-Hangers-40060

https://www.chaosfab.com/accessories/1996-2004-Tacoma-12-inch-Chromoly-Shackles-41200

https://www.chaosfab.com/accessories/1996-2004-Tacoma-Shakle-Pivot-Gussets-40450

https://www.chaosfab.com/accessories/1996-2004-Toyota-Tacoma-U-Bolt-Plates-40020

Ruffstuff makes a little bit cheaper u bolt plates and they also make spring perches for 3" axle housings.

I wouldn't do much cutting through the bed unless you're installing some 62" Deavers - just a shock relocation keeping the shocks under the bed like the build I linked you would probably be more than your current leafs would need at this point since they'll probably limit droop before you need super long shocks.

 

Have seen another LT Regular Cab running F67s and they seem to be about perfect once broken in. Glad to have a first hand recommendation, makes me feel more confident in that purchase. Thanks for the info

 

As I said ^^ to Jon. Seen another regular cab LT running F67s but forgetting his @ right now. After breaking them in should be about perfect for me. I assumed leafs would be the huge limitation for me, especially even just from a wear standpoint would probably blow through them in the first couple months, so I think you’re right. Under bed relocation and maybe some progressive AAL’s for now. Thanks for all the links, will definitely be revisiting this thread in the near future

 

Im gonna chime in since I am running a similar setup but going backwards from LT to MT in the rear. TC up front, old ass Deaver F67's, SUA, with 9" shackles mounted thru the frame. Sits nice and level, but doesnt do well with any weight whatsoever... Looking to go to a firmer pack and tucking the shocks under the bed.

From my quick (not breaking down the leafs) measurements Im seeing about 11.25" travel with 1" tire to fender gap. Thinking I can squeeze a 10" shock in leaned back a bit with the mounts being about the same height as the leaf pack

Pic is stock bed with no shocks for those considering height, 285/75/16

 

I have a 2013 second gen Tacoma I'm doing wide body I can't figure out what to do to about the rear end.
I need a wider/longer rear axle.
any suggestions on where to go or what to get.
I believe my rear axle is about 70 in long and I need something around 78 to 82 in please help

 

My setup is similar to BrownMikes, f67 n 9" shackles thru the frame, spring under, n I'm single cab. I'm a 5 lug so my truck sits a little bit lower. I removed 3 leafs so it wasn't stink bugged. I have 14" billstiens thru the bed mounted off the back of the axle, outside the frame

 

Wheel spacers at 2” max a side is just about your best affordable option here. The 1st gen tundra is not much wider. And 2nd gen tundra is but I cant recall how much. Either way thats 5 lug and drive shaft flange is different. Another option is finding a 9” axle with someone modified 6 lug axles and getting a 9” third member with correct gearing and also a correct driveline flange that bolts up. Again really expensive.