HOW TO: Remove/Install a starter/fix a clicking starter (2.7 liter 3RZ-FE engine)

The rubber liner in the wheel wells hiding the engine from view? Yea you can yeet those fuckers into the sun without issue.

 

This was a very useful post, just got done changing out the starter on our 2012 Tacoma extended cab 4x4 with the 2.7 liter 4 banger. At just over 78k miles and over 7 years this was the first major repair needed on it, other than replacing a headlight bulb and a license plate bulb!

Starting had gotten sketchy and I had eliminated a battery problem with a load tester from Harbor Freight. All wiring checked out, only unusual observation was a measured 10mV voltage drop between the battery negative post and the ground connection on the fender wall at 30 amps of running load with the heater blower on high speed (at 15 amps half of the total load at idle with lights on and high beams on). Extrapolating our to worst case voltage drop at 750 cold cranking amps peak, voltage drop at that condition across the small cable jumper between the battery and the fender wall would only be 0.25 volts peak, probably not significant. Cleaning the battery connection and the connection at the firewall did not change the measures voltage drop, I suspect it’s occurring at the crimped connection between the cable and the spade flat at the fender end of the short negative battery lead, may eventually install a new one.

Total time to swap out the starter was about 2.5 hours, 90% of which spent loosening and subsequently tightening the upper starter mounting bolt. Every job always has that one f& bolt that gives you fits!

I decided to do this job myself because the post led me to believe everything could be done through the wheel well and not from under the vehicle. Not so, needed to spend considerable time on my back looking up and getting a grip on the f& upper mounting bolt to loosen and tighten it. Broke it loose with a 14 mm offset combination wrench, once it was broken free, ended up mostly using my fingers to loosen it and tighten it the rest of the way. What may have helped was a 14 mm socket with some non-skid tape wrapped around it to allow my fingers to get a better grip. A stubby 1/4 inch drive ratchet and a short 14 mm socket would likely have had to enough room to work, standard size 3/8 ratchet did not have any significant room to swing.

I hate having to lay under a car on my back because over the last few years it almost instantly makes me nauseous, apparently a vertigo related thing when you are lying down and you are looking up at items only inches away. Have found it’s not uncommon. My indie mechanic says same thing happens to him when he has to work upside down under a dashboard. Once the nausea sets in, it takes a while to go away.

Chris B
Stonington, CT

 

Save the original starter (very high quality Denso unit) and disassemble the solenoid and replace the contacts and plunger, it's not hard or time consuming, I promise. Parts are under 20 bucks and now you have a higher quality rebuilt Denso unit, better than anything out there, besides new Toyota OEM

 

Thanks for the tip, will consider it. Will cost me my 40 buck core deposit at AZ, but in the long run, might have a relatively inexpensive backup unit. Does the rebuild kit include new commutator brushes?

Curious as to how the solenoid contacts look. Predictably, the truck has always started normally in the last few days since I bought the replacement starter!

 

Just the typical contacts and plunger are in the rebuild kit.
At least part stores honor the lifetime warranty on the crap parts. People get real good and quick swapping in a new aftermarket starter every year or two
Just keep the receipt in the glove box, for when you need it

 

Read your helpful instructions and thank you.

I just wanted to add that in my son's truck's case, it was much easier to remove and replace the starter. He has a 2WD 2.7 L engine and he removed the starter without removing the wheel or anything more than the wires and the 2 bolts, not that it was easy. Just wanted to report that this was possible because our research indicated that the job would be much more involved than it was.

 

Another satisfied customer of this thread. Thanks for sharing this info.

2000 2.4 2WD. I did the wheel off, starter pulled through the wheel well method. Glad I had a 14mm ratcheting box wrench for that top starter bolt. One interesting thing I noted, the larger of the two brushes was significantly more worn than the other. Truck has 76K miles on it.

 

1997 2.7l 4WD. I was able to get the starter out through the wheel well. Didn't think I would be able to at first. Removed the bolt holding brake line to the frame, moved brake line coil from above under hood slightly. Took the starter out oriented just like the picture in the original post. Went back in by just reversing the way it came out, was even easier on the way in. Thanks

 

On their website is it just the plunger and 2 contacts needed for the rebuild ?
Old post

Is this the kit people have been buying

 

Does that kit come with the screws

 

Just ordered mine! My truck did the loud click after sitting 5 weeks! Battery dead, charged to full and only got a loud click....after a couple tries it started. 2001 2.7L with 189k.

 

Great post with the pictures. With many makes and models of vehicles, the dreaded multiple "click" before the starter finally turns over is 90% of the time worn copper contacts in the starter. Thanks for the parts source.