Premium Audio Upgrade for less than $250

Crutchfield will only send you the front door wire harness. You will need the 2018+ Camry speaker adapters for the rear doors of your 2020...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-2018-T...2018|Model:Camry|Make:Toyota&epid=15017392234


Also a lot add the kicker 46CSC674 in the rear doors, they can handle more power and have same frequency response and slightly cheaper today.

 

Just installed this on Sunday. Huge difference in power. Stock entune can't push them to their max but it's worth every penny. May make you want the key or a new HU. I'm considering a new HU. Just a tad more power would really make these speakers impress.

 

Went ahead and did this to my 2006 sr5 that desperately needed better sound!

All the details for my install are here: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/nimble9s-budget-build-ruby.442525/page-102#post-23269290

Thanks to the OP for a sweet and worthwhile mod

 

PLEASE DO YOURSELF A FAVOR AND DONT BUY KICKER CS spend a few more bucks and support a much smaller company with superior sound MEMPHIS AUDIO AVAILABLE ON CRUTCHFIELD. You’ll thank me later.

2way I went with: https://www.crutchfield.com/S-I39X0...MIyYD58reR6QIVBp-fCh0eHgKoEAQYAiABEgJMcPD_BwE

3 way if you want: https://www.crutchfield.com/S-RRGlH9SOSLq/p_953PRX6903/Memphis-Audio-PRX6903.html

 

Can't agree sorry...those specs don't compare. Just my opinion no offense.

 

Just finished the Kicker Hideaway install, set up under the driver seat. I now love the way the truck sounds, I do think I will be doing some adjustments.

First on the Key amp, has anyone used the jumpers to set the front incoming signals to set both front and rear off the Key amp? Basically having them both at the same wattage.

Second, since I have the Hideaway installed, I think I will use the Key crossover for mids and highs and dedicate the bass to the Hideaway what settings has anyone used? Also, if you have the Hideaway, where did you mount the bass adjustment knob?

Lastly, thanks all for the tips on getting this all together.

I just invested in a Blue Sea 6 circuit fuse buss and breaker and will be using those eventually to connect to both the Key and Hideaway along with some other electrical. Working on my mounting plate for those.

 

Replies in red

 

I would also run a dedicated 4-8 gauge power wire to the hideaway. Amps should always have its own power (w/inline fuse) that doesn’t through an aux fuse box.

 

The hideaway already uses a dedicated power wire. And it can certainly be run through the Blue Seas block. It’s only like a 10A fuse

 

Is that all it is? Well shit... color me corrected.

My comments still stand for a dedicated stand alone amp though.

 

Correction* 10A on the sub itself, and they provide a 15A for up at the battery.

however @Tmaloy if you ever go to a larger sub/amp, then follow @shane100700 advice and run the sub power to a dedicated fuse at the battery

 

I'm good with the current power output of the system, just need to tune everything to my liking. I used to do a ton a amp installs for friends and family, still do on occasion. I would of course go with a dedicated larger gauge power cable if I was to go with more equipment but I just like a good sounding system. On the stock HU 17 volume is pretty loud, when I crank it up to 35 it's already too much for my aging ears. I already found that the master window regulator has some rattle on it so I'm going to around the truck and take care of those as I find them. Hopefully I can get some sound deadening material that won't cost me an arm and a leg in the future.

@destin_meeks I will try those settings out sir, thanks for your input.

 

Noico is the best bang for your buck if you ask me. I’ve been using it and so far really like it.

Glad you seem pretty versed in audio- just wanted to prevent a possible issue. There are def all kinds on TW. Nothing wrong with really inexperienced guys, just plenty that don’t ask questions. Couple months ago, had another guy fry his factory wiring system doing puddle lights. That’s at least three I know of.

 

Is thee a "T" harness for the OEM USB adapter so that another USB jack cold be located in the glove box?

 

No. Unfortunately our radios (and most others) won’t read USB’s as a hub. You’re stuck with 1

 

Then I think I will just relocate the jack entirely to free up some space. Thx.

 

You could add a small hub if you want to keep two functional USB ports, see here:
What are you using for music storage?

 

About to do this on my 2020 and when I was checking out on Crutchfield I saw this note

"The front tweeters and the door woofers are wired together at each tweeter location. If you remove or replace the tweeters, you'll have to splice the input and output wires together to keep the woofers working."

Does that mean if I do the kicker speakers then the tweeters are no longer just plug and play?

 

subaru tweeters are plug and play. Crutchfield sends an adapter for the front speakers that make them plug and play. You can buy plug and play adapters on eBay or Amazon for the rear.

 

If your not going to change out the dash tweeters and run the Kicker door speakers you may be enough with that as the highs are pretty good off of them. You can always upgrade the dash to the Subaru ones down the road.