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99 Tacoma crank no start

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by Timshane 77, May 5, 2020.

  1. May 7, 2020 at 6:31 AM
    #21
    cruiserguy

    cruiserguy Well-Known Member

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    Well crap if you're checking your compression then you definitely know what you're describing on the sounds.
    It's definitely possible to burn an exhaust valve on these.
    You gonna pull the valve cover to look at the valves next?
     
  2. May 7, 2020 at 1:57 PM
    #22
    Tacoma-toy

    Tacoma-toy Master Auto/ASE Tech

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    if it jumped time all cylinders would be low. Did you read my post about flooding?
     
  3. May 7, 2020 at 2:00 PM
    #23
    Tacoma-toy

    Tacoma-toy Master Auto/ASE Tech

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    unfortunately you can't see the valves by pulling the cover.
     
    cruiserguy[QUOTED] likes this.
  4. May 7, 2020 at 2:00 PM
    #24
    Tacoma-toy

    Tacoma-toy Master Auto/ASE Tech

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    Timshane 77[OP] and cruiserguy like this.
  5. May 7, 2020 at 2:12 PM
    #25
    Theekillerbee

    Theekillerbee Member

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    I've only done it with with a leak down testing kit. It is made specifically for this purpose. There may be another way to do one. Perhaps another forum member has a trick.

    That motor's Achilles heel is the valves. Lash (think gap) needs checked and adjusted fairly frequently, otherwise you can burn the exhaust valves. Checking that gap isn't all that hard. Changing out those spacers is a pain and requires a special tool. Some claim the valves stretch, others feel they get worked slightly deeper in the seats...either way, over time the valve will get stuck open as there is then no gap between the valve stem and cam shaft, thus burning the edges of the valve.

    Wish I could tell you it was an easy fix, but just redoing the head/valves is typically gonna run around $1000. Then add labor, so if you pay someone to do it, plan on taking it Shawshank style.
     
  6. May 7, 2020 at 4:54 PM
    #26
    cruiserguy

    cruiserguy Well-Known Member

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    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/99-tacoma-crank-no-start.664916/page-2#post-23318818
    I quoted this post but it doesn't show it for some reason.
    I'm a decent head for this stuff, but great catch dude, on the flooding and the low compression. It's true, it wouldn't have crossed my mind in that scenario. At least not anytime soon. Great Great catch.

    So if OP wants to redo the compression test with the EFI fuse pulled, it should crank and no fuel will be sent.

    Again, nice thinking on the flooding affecting the compression testing. :cool:
     
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  7. May 7, 2020 at 4:57 PM
    #27
    cruiserguy

    cruiserguy Well-Known Member

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    This is what I was trying to quote above. My bad for that being so complicated lol
     
  8. May 7, 2020 at 6:58 PM
    #28
    Timshane 77

    Timshane 77 [OP] Member

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    Thanks. I will try the oil change,new plugs, and holding it to the floor.
     
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  9. May 8, 2020 at 3:12 AM
    #29
    OLDHMECH61

    OLDHMECH61 Well-Known Member

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    Good advise from all above, also check vacuum hose to fuel pressure regulator.
     
  10. May 8, 2020 at 8:30 AM
    #30
    j4roe

    j4roe Well-Known Member

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    Did OP put each cylinder to TDC when measuring? 60 could be valve stuck open or cylinder not at TDC
     
  11. Jun 17, 2020 at 12:05 PM
    #31
    ajwgator

    ajwgator New Member

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    Timshane 77 I am having the exact same issue with my 99 2.7! Started it up and it ran for a couple of seconds and then it just died. Tried starting it again and like yours it turned over really fast but sounded like the it had jumped time. I didn't try it more than once because I didn't want to run the risk of messing up valves if it had.

    I took the valve cover off and the timing chain is in tack and no slack, I pulled the #1 plug and rotated the crankshaft by hand to get the engine at TDC, and all the timing marks on both camshaft gears and crankshaft pulley are lined up correctly. So I know for sure that the engine has NOT jumped time. I don't know about the balance shafts and chain down below that but I do not think they would cause this kind of problem. To see them the timing cover has to come off and I don't really want to have to pull the head to do that. I am probably going to pull the oil pan and look up into the bottom of the timing chain cover from there to make sure that chain is still in tack.

    Just wondering if you have found a cause for your 2.7 doing this. You said you may go ahead and replace your chain anyway but I'm not inclined to do that since so many posts about the 2.7 engine timing chain lasting a "lifetime" and almost indestructible. I only have 165K miles on mine and most posts talk about having 250-300K + with no problems from the timing chain.

    I may have jumped the gun on pulling it apart but from my years of mechanicing when I heard the way it sounded and the way it turned over so fast, I was like you and felt it had jumped time and wasn't producing any compression. I'll check back to see if you or anyone else might provide more tips or have experienced this issue and what may have fixed it.
     
  12. Jun 18, 2020 at 6:02 AM
    #32
    Timshane 77

    Timshane 77 [OP] Member

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    I have been slammed with work and have not worked on the truck much lately. I can tell u that it looks like it jumped time and is off my a couple teeth.
     
  13. Jun 20, 2020 at 10:00 AM
    #33
    ajwgator

    ajwgator New Member

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    Has anyone ever tried to pull the timing cover off without pulling the head on these 2.7 engines?
     

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