BUYER BEWARE: 3rd Gen Plug-N-Play Tailgate Bolt-N-Lock & Tailgate Bolt-N-Open

I’ll wait for another promo

 

Give me some time to get all these kits out and restock some of the items and maybe I can do it again especially if we are going to stay in this situation for a longer time period

 

waiting as well , as I just missed it, thanks

 

Watching thread for another promo

 

@TRD Larry Need to find a wire that is 12V+ ONLY when in Neutral. It has been discussed before but I never tracked down a location, need another MT owners help. Once we have an idea of that circuit I can look up the diagram and tell you which wire in which connector to tap of.

 

@DSIM Thank for responding. I was wondering if the open button would work with the doors lock/unlock.
If ignition on and doors unlocked then allow to open
If ignition on and doors locked then do not open
If ignition off allow to open

My doors lock automatically when the truck is in motion so I think this will work for me. Not sure what others would think. Not even sure if this is doable. Leaving that up to you. You are the expert in these matters. I’m just throwing this out for discussion. Thanks.

 

@DSIM Having a problem with my tailgate opener. Lately it started to not open. I looked at your module and noticed that LED light not blinking when I depressed the key fob. I reset the module by disconnecting the plug. When I plugged it back in the opener started working. Today the opener is not working again. I reset the module and nothing. When I depress the key fob the LED light just stays on constantly. Can you help me on this? Do I need a new module. I checked the actuator, it is getting power, so I eliminated the wiring and actuator. Seems like it is coming down to the module. Thanks.

 

Hey man shoot me an email at dsim.solutions@gmail.com for troubleshooting. And sorry I have not got back with you on the B-Harness for manuals. Have been in the process of moving that finally finished yesterday. Playing major catchup.

 

What kit do I need if I just want it to lock and unlock with the fob? No drilling or tapping wires either. Thanks in advance!

 

Page #1, Post #1:

Ordering and payment info is on Page #1, Post #2.

 

Thanks so much!

So what’s the difference between package 1 and package 2?

Tailgate Lock Complete Full Package (PNP, Integrated Harness, Actuator, BNL) - No Drilling
PRICE: $95 (FREE SHIPPING LOWER 48)


Bolt-N-Open Add-On Package (Actuator, BNO, PNP, Integrated Harness)
PRICE: $115 (FREE SHIPPING LOWER 48)

 

Both packages are bolt-on, the the second one includes the opener functionality.

 

So if I want it to both lock and unlock with my remote, I should get this one? Sorry for the all questions. I greatly appreciate your help!

Tailgate Opener Complete Full Package* (PNP, Integrated Harness, 2x Actuator, BNL, BNO) - No Drilling
PRICE: $150 (SHIPPING FEE $13.20)

 

If you just want lock/unlock, that's the $95 kit. If you want lock/unlock + pop open, get the $150 kit.

 

Ahhhhh. I get it now. Thanks a ton for your help man!

 

Any word on the group buy going on again?

 

From scanning thru the thread, I know others had the same problem I am now having, in that the tailgate opening actuator behaves as if it's "short stroking" and doesn't pull hard enough to open the tailgate. It appears that there is sufficient play in the actuator's range of motion, doesn't look like it is bottoming out at all. This happens tailgate closed or open, so the rubber bumpers cannot possibly be a factor here. Just curious what ended up working for those that had this issue?

Edit: Spent another 2 hours tinkering with it this afternoon. I decided that the provided actuator wasn't working as intended, in that it would just provide a short pull, but never "reset". I swapped it out for a new one and that one seems to have much more motion than the first one. With the tailgate down, it opens the latch every time now. With the tailgate down..... So, I then tried all the different length rods, loosening the latch bolts, even the bedside catch on both sides is adjustable. Removing rubber stops, everything I have read on here to try, STILL will not drop the tailgate. I'm REALLY envious of those who say their install went smoothly, my experience (possibly thru my own fault) has been somewhere south of there. Any ideas? Anybody? Is this thing on? (Yes I realize it may be quiet around here until after the holiday...)

 

I'm actually having the same issue. Tried to install this weekend and tried everything I can think of with no luck. I'll be keeping an eye on this thread to see if you find a resolution.

 

The next thing I may try is to remove the opener mounting bracket and drill additional holes (for the actuator) as far back as the actuator length allows to ensure the maximum pull on it. I'm not optimistic this'll be productive since I'm assuming that's the reason why Katie included rods of varying lengths. The new actuator actually is pulling pretty hard, so I now feel like it's maybe a matter of adjusting the bedside catches, or some combination of adjustments (just nothing I've tried has worked so far).

 

I think mine has plenty of range. I even tried raising the actuator up by cutting the thread spacers and putting the larger portion under the actuator to get a more linear pull.



I find if I disconnect one of the pull rods (driver’s side) that the actuator works well. It just doesn’t have the balls to pull both latches far enough. It seems to work better with the tailgate open too, I haven’t been able to determine if the closed latch is harder to pull than an already open one. Almost wondering if I’m a little below 12v on an older stock battery - not sure if that would make a difference.