Stuff that breaks after installing a lift

I'd like to create a thread that lists all the potential issues that arise when installing a lift. I know this is something that weighs heavily on the minds of those of us considering getting such a mod done. Since I have no experience with this topic, I'd like some input from the TW hivemind.

Here's what I've read.



- Driveline vibrations: can be corrected with the methodology linked below, plus a carrier bearing drop kit or flip, axle shims, and single-piece driveshaft or two-piece double cardan driveshaft, as appropriate
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ved-step-by-step.244535/page-49#post-23988923

- Accelerated driveshaft u-joint wear: likely results from failing to fix driveline vibrations in a timely manner

- Blown CV axle boots: can be corrected with new high angle inner CV boots from Offroad Solutions or differential drop kit (the latter is not very effective, nor is it recommended)

- Front differential needle bearing failure: can be corrected with ECGS bushing

- Alignment issues: can be corrected with new high caster UCAs, usually only a problem for front end lifts over 2.5 inches

- Blown wheel bearings: not really related to lifts, more to do with large/heavy tires installed on wheels/spacers with a large offset; can be corrected by installing @05Taco4x4 wheel bearings if/when your stock bearings go bad
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/wheel-bearings-hubs-press-service-4x4-prerunner.537080/

- Seized lower control arms (LCAs): this is a problem that is regularly encountered when trying to install a lift, so not a problem that is caused by a lift; can be corrected with coating LCA hardware with anti-seize (preventive) or installing new LCAs with anti-seize coated hardware (corrective)

- Blown lower ball joints (LBJs): unclear if LBJ wear is accelerated by lift installation

- Steering system issues: not really sure about the specifics of this issue, or what lift height makes these problems appear

- Accelerated tie rod end wear: have only seen this mentioned a couple times, not sure what causes the issue or how to prevent/fix it

- Brake lines overextended: only an issue with front- or rear-end lifts over 3 inches or with extended travel lift kits, can be corrected with extended brake lines

- "Taco lean": problem caused by non-driver or passenger side-specific springs, can be corrected with a 1/4 inch spacer on the driver side to level the truck side to side

- Rough ride/poor ride quality: spacer lifts are notorious for this; caused by limited down-travel, stiff shock valving, or excessively stiff springs; can be corrected with extensive research and proper parts selection

- Driveline vibrations under acceleration: likely due to axle wrap, which is exacerbated by rear-end lift blocks; can be corrected by using a purpose-built leaf pack to provide rear-end lift instead of lift blocks

- Sway bar interference: arises when aftermarket front shock/coil assembly is too large in diameter, can be corrected with sway bar relocate kit

- Front end creaking/groaning noise: likely due to lack of grease on UCA bolt or LCA alignment hardware

- Vehicle Stability Control (VSC) malfunctions: can cause loss of steering, which is extremely dangerous. Only reported to affect about 1 out of 5 people with lifted trucks. Can be corrected with a zero point VSC calibration.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/lift-with-vsc-answer.41215/

- Probably lots of other stuff that I haven't thought about



If you have clarification to provide on any of the above, or new points of your own, I'd be glad to hear it.

 

Bump. I know most of this information is available in other threads, but I think consolidating everything into one would make the process less daunting for the inexperienced. I'm hesitant to put together a guide myself, since I have zero experience with lifted trucks and their issues.

 

Thanks

 

Basically, if you plan on lifting your Tacoma...plan on spending just as much time and money on making everything else work correctly afterwards.

Good info here OP

 

Thanks for posting this up.... Great stuff to think about!

 

Guys, as much as I’d like to take credit for creating the list of problems in my first post, it’s all just regurgitated information. I don’t have any experience with any of the issues listed. I was hoping to start an informed discussion about the topic with members who have some firsthand knowledge. I figure guys with newly-lifted trucks would be grateful for a one-stop shop for troubleshooting.

That said, maybe I should just go back in my browser history and post links for each of my bullet points.

 

So I’ll kick this off. I added 5100/887 OME combo up front and single touted AAL out back. Stock rear shocks, stock UCAs and stock brake line length.

To date (knock on wood) I’ve had zero issues with the needle bearing vibration up front. I was able to get the truck alignment dialed in and I’m happy to report no other issues popped up after wheeling in some pretty nasty situations.

I actually expected to have more issues to correct based on what I’ve seen posted throughout TW.

I must have lucked out and got a truck built on a good day after someone got a raise or something

 

@krootz, good stuff! It seems like you never hear about the success stories on here.

 

Few people are so pleased with their car starting each morning before their morning commute to make a post about it.

It’s when the car doesn’t start that it’s anything they give notice.

There’s a reason forums are usually more negatively biased, and it’s because things that work perfectly aren’t much to talk about.

 

Ain't that the truth. Reading through the forums, you'd think that altering your truck from factory specs makes things spontaneously combust. For the inexperienced among us (hi, that's me), hearing a few success stories would be welcome to bolster confidence or settle nerves.

 

I don’t know why anyone would want to spend 2 grand plus on a nice suspension system and then have to worry about the draw backs.
Thanks for posting this. It seems like it’s a hit or miss with some of these issues. Some people get them some don’t. I currently want to upgrade my suspension not for height but for better weight caring ability. Even that seems like a can full of worms.

 

You're spot-on, man. I imagine most of us buy Toyotas for one main reason: they make a drop-dead reliable vehicle, moreso than any other manufacturer. Any mods that reduce reliability negate the reason behind buying a Toyota, and are a colossally stupid idea.

That said, if there are ways to fix the issues brought on by the mods, then the idea isn't stupid. It just takes a little more legwork to get the desired end result. This thread is that "legwork."

 

I agree 100%. Knowing what you are REALLY if for as far as second and third order effects can be the difference. It was for me. I was careful to only mod the things that I needed to get the end result I wanted with (hopefully) minimal side effects.

except my stereo speaker upgrade. Fuck that noise. Disaster. Bought $500 worth of speakers and wiring and sounds like shit in a paper bag

 

This. A million times, this. It's damn near impossible to get a feel for probable post-lift issues with the amount of misinformation and crap out there. It's almost enough to make one throw their hands up in the air and buy a single-piece driveshaft, high-angle CV axles, and brand new LCAs right out of the gate.

 

This is why I hesitate to add a lift

but as with any change, you have to accept risk that something else may get messed up. That’s just a fact.

 

Don't take short cuts and you won't have problems. You also get what you pay for.

Don't hesitate to do something, just do it right once. As mentioned, most problems are irregular and plenty of us are fine.

Don't think of a lift "kit" as complete. Do your math and see what applies to you. Angles and geometry are important.

 

I think a lot of people can’t accept this “You also get what you pay for”. I see so many post asking what the cheapest route for a lift is.

Do you really want to place your life in the hands of a cheap lift parts while you’re driving 70mph on the highway?

 

Great post OP, there really is alot more to lifting these trucks than just installing a set of coilovers or spacers.

I did lots of research, listened to those that had experience and knew what they were doing. I took my time and it paid off 100%. I have absolutely no lift issues with my truck. Thanks TW.

 

Excellent point. TacomaHolic did a kinda clickbait-y video that covered a similar point. Basically, if your lift kit costs $1500, save up $3000 and get ready to troubleshoot. My baseline Dobinsons lift kit (ordered yesterday) came out to about $1600, and I’ve got another $1800 in preventive measures and expert assistance to go. That isn’t enough to cover all eventualities, so I saved an extra $1500 in case things go totally sideways. None of this is needed for a weekend toy, but it’s essential for a daily driver.

For people who stumble across this thread in the future, here are the lift components I’m talking about:

Lift kit and UCAs -
- Dobinsons C59-350 coils on GS59-220 shocks with one PS59-4030 1/4" spacer, assembled
- Dobinsons L59-111-R leaf packs with

$335 Dobinsons Pair of Rear Shocks Compatible with Toyota Tacoma 4x4 2005-2018 - GS59-940

GS59-940 shocks and 1 pair SP59-001 greasable bolts
- SPC UCAs
Preventive measures, installed with lift kit -
- ECGS bushing
- Off Road Solutions ORS-HB201 high angle CV inner boot
- SBR-129 sway bar relocate kit
- OME carrier bearing drop kit
- Headstrong Offroad 2 degree axle shim kit
Corrective measures, if needed -
- OEM LCAs with all new hardware
- Tom Woods 4x4 single piece driveshaft

tl;dr I’m not real big on taking risks

 

Nice writeup OP. I would venture to add the implications of increasing tire size, what’s needed to fit them, and to answer all the common questions asked by new members to help them instead of having to search or ask questions asked hundreds of times. This should be a sticky.