Any woodworkers?

Oof. $150 in drawer slides for this project.

 

So... Funny story... I did all of that before I made the first post about this.. and even explained that I did in fact do all those things.

Anyways.. thanks for all the advice .. hopefully it'll help someone else.

 

Ok... This is the worst picture ever...

The red dot is the ruler part of the square and the green dot is the blade. You can see where they meet and there is no light in-between them. The blade can't get any more square to the fence and it's perfectly straight up and down too.

 

Thats square vertical but your cut isnt square horizontal

 

I'd love to try this.. it's like a T50 and I don't own one currently. I can't break it loose with anything else (I tried)

DW705

You're looking at it wrong.. I know it's a bad picture. The square is on the "bed" of the saw

I've tried 4 different squares but I don't know what an engineer square is so no.

 

Make sure your square is square, first off.

Second off, make sure you aren't on a tooth when you are using the square to register to the fence. That will throw things off.

 

I've used 4 different squares...and yes.. I'm aware to not be on a tooth.

 

looks like an excuse to buy some new tools

 

The thing is.. The fence is all one piece.. I can see the logic as it may have moved over time.. after all it's a used saw.. but I feel like the consensus is that none of these saws are expected to be better that 1/32nd off.. I'm just building some boxes and drawers so if I can't make it better.. then I guess I'll do some extra sanding.


For reals.. appreciate everyone's help and ideas.

 

I have a DW716 (looks like newer version of yours, both 12" dual bevel, not sliding)
It is square.
I've read through the responses to your question and I think the logic is that it *should* be better than 1/32

Check to see if the fence is straight. I had a King mitre saw that was not. The fence is not adjustable (at least on mine), but it needs to be straight
Then adjust the angle of the saw (not the bevel) so you are making perfect cuts
after that you need to change the angle guide to match up to the 90 you just set the saw to (you'll need that T50)
btw, on my saw they changed the T50 to a T30 with a slot so a standard screwdriver would work as well)

The procedure that wilcam47 linked is very good, that should get you through this

 

The T30 works on the other bolts but the fence is T50 and I tried the biggest straight screwdriver I own and a crescent wrench and it didn't even think about moving. Haha. Thanks for the insight and I'll try again tomorrow to make it better.

 

If it’s something you want/need to be that exact, why not use the TS? There’s a lot of wood shops that don’t have a miter saws as they’re considered more of a contractor grade tool by quite a few woodworkers.

 

I'm just building some boxes and some drawers for my workbench. It really doesn't have to be perfect... I just thought the miter saw could be a little better.

Below is the latest picture.. and it's pretty damn spot on so I'm satisfied with it! It's hard to see especially with a cell phone camera but the pencil line at the end of the board (not the second line in) is straight as straight can be.


I never did get the fence loose.. I reset the blade square to the fence a few times and tested it until I got to this point.

As for not using the table saw... It's much easier cross cutting 8 foot boards on the miter saw for me.

 

not sure about your particular saw but my Makita saws allow for the fence to be loosened from the lower body assembly so you can square the fence to the 90 degree detent

I usually get the fence set to the flat of the blade with a square , then cut a 90 on the widest board that I can and check cut with s square , adjust as necessary

 

I agree. I prefer to use a miter saw too, but was just commenting on the TS being more precise if that was your concern.

 

3/4 or 20mm

little late but I have this jig system for perfectly square and symmetrical hole layout

https://youtu.be/2DMtIiyfRXk

https://youtu.be/d-IFTaF6fWk

 

Here's another question .. if I wanted to build a honeycomb shaped box I know the ends of each board should be 30 degrees. Is there an online calculator or something to utilize if I wanted to make the ID a certain height?

EDIT: Disregard the above question. I found what I was looking for here:
https://hexagoncalculator.apphb.com/

And to convert the decimals to inches

https://www.inchcalculator.com/inch-fraction-calculator/