3rd Gen 4runner Lift Help

I recently purchased a stock 2002 4runner limited 4x4. The vehicle looks great but I need to add a small lift. I'm have next to no knowledge on suspension. If I'm going to be using the vehicle as a daily driver and no off roading and am simply trying to get the look what is the best route to go for a 2-3" lift. I will have to pay for the install. The truck only has 115k on it and is in really good shape so I don't know if the stock shocks are adequate and just adding springs and spacers will work. I've seen the Old Man EMU package as an option but is that overkill for what I'm looking for? I'd like a good ride for daily driving and really won't need a high performance suspension kit. Any advise is greatly appreciated. I'm not looking to break the bank but only want to do this one time for the vehicles life. Recommendations are appreciated greatly.

zacwigs1251

 

I have an old man emu lift on my '99. I opted for the heavy coil springs front and rear , and firm valved shocks. It rides like a truck, it's firm, but consistent. I would definitely go with a heavier coil spring in the rear to reduce the rear end sag over time. But you don't have to go with the firm valved shocks.

I ordered my kit through Toytec. I paid for the front coilovers to be assembled (I've had coil compressors fail on me, not messing with those again, ymmv), so the install was fairly simple. Me and a buddy knocked it out in a lomg afternoon.

It's my understanding that if you install rear lift springs with the original shocks, you'll likely overextend the shocks and break them.

Other things to keep in mind:

-You will want to invest in extended sway bar end links.
-With a lift in the rear you will need to extend your rear brake line. Toytec sells a braided steel line. Extending the front flex lines is not necessary with a 2-3" lift.
-with a >2" front lift, you will need to do a 1" diff drop.
-with a lift, you will be running your front CV axles at a steeper angle. I tore the inner cv boots about every 9-10k miles, even doing the "boot stretch" mod. I bought a set of the generic silicone "high angle" cv boots from 4wheelparts about 2 years/22k miles ago, and (knock on wood) they're still intact. The install was finicky, but better than having to pull my cv's every 6 months.
-You will be putting more strain on your lower ball joints. The LBJs on these vehicles are under tension at all times. When they fail, you basically total the vehicle. It will rip the cv axle out of the diff, damage the spindle and uca, fender etc. When you lift it, put a new set of OEM lower ball joints on it at the same time.
-It is suggested you install a bracket for the panhard bar for the rear axle. I did not do this, nor did I install an adjustable length panhard bar. It definitely has changed the way the vehicle handles. I drive carefully, it's a lifted brick, not a ferrari.
-With a lift you'll be wanting to stuff bigger tires under it. With that comes extra strain on the already undersized front brakes. I put a new set of OEM 4runner rotors on mine after having them turned 2x, before I bothered to do the tundra brake upgrade. The TBU is *totally* and completely worth the money. Looking back I wish I had done it at the same time as the lift. If you have the original 16" Tri-Y alloy wheels, you can do the smaller 199mm (same dia. as the 4runner) rotor TBU, instead of the larger 231mm rotor and 13WL caliper upgrade. Otherwise most have found that the original tri-y's will not clear the 231mm 13WL caliper. After the TBU your brake pedal will have increased travel and a softer/squishier engagement. You can upgrade your master cylinder if you want, I still find it to be an easy adjustment. You may want to disable your ABS if the module becomes more sensitive after the swap.

A lot of these considerations are the same no matter the method of lifting the vehicle, so keep them in mind.