Let's see your FJ case swap

I still don't see where they bought the dual stick conversion. I see how to det it up. Maybe im blind

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/lets-see-your-fj-case-swap.455278/page-15#post-19017955

Appears to be front range for most and then some were building theirs themselves. I’ll try and find the thread with the how to build one.

 

Thanks Adam -Adam

 

Here's a few options, I'm sure there's some others out there but these are common ones. I think most of the folks that "made their own" started with one of these options and hacked up it up make it work for their setup. Nothing like spending a few hundred bucks on a part cut, weld, and grind it to make it fit.

https://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/creepy-twin-t-case-shifter.html
http://www.radesignsproducts.com/triple---twin-sticks.html (see the last option)
https://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/twin-stick/

 

You guys rock. Im doing a 4wd conversion and figure since ill be installing everything i may as well just go big from the start.

 

take your time collecting parts...i did and i managed with doing it right at my budge. the extras for me was having to get extended front axles (i have LT, and regearing the diff to match the rear to 4:56)

 

Mind if I pick your brain in a PM?

 

FWIW I did the 4wd conversion and did not do the twin sticks

 

Any reason you didn't?

 

Didn’t feel like 2 lo would benefit me enough for my intended purposes.

 

There is no kit. Just buy a twin stick shifter and grind the shift rail and remove the interlock pill.

 

sure man

 

That’s what my mindset was. Sit and do it right the first time. Ive waited And collected over 5 months. I found a front diff with 4.88s and an ARB so I had to regear my rear diff to match.

 

If you’re eliminating your ADD, you’d need a twin stick to utilize 2Lo.

but, if you don’t plan on eliminating the ADD, you can technically still get 2Lo by shifting into 4lo with the ADD disconnected. The front drive shaft will spin from the xfer case, but the ADD won’t engage the wheel/wheels.

#poormans2lo

 

You do not NEED twin sticks. I originally had twin sticks and didn't like them, just swapped in a stock FJ case and J shifter. I am using ADD so I can just shift the Tcase into low and still be in 2wd.

The prerunner adapters that adapt a tcase to the A750e 2wd transmission are not made anymore AFAIK. You can try to find one used, or just swap in an A750f transmission from a 4wd with a modified transmission crossmember or RST crossmember. That is the hardest part of the conversion, everything else bolts in, and wire the ADD to a rocker switch. I gathered parts for a couple of years, I spent around $2k for the necessary parts. $500 for the transmission and front driveshaft, $600 for the front diff, CV's, spare spindles and hubs, $350 for an FJ tcase, $400 to retube the rear driveshaft with a slip and flange to replace the slip yoke, plus some miscellaneous hardware, breathers, etc..

 

Hey guys. Just purchased an FJ case and will be doing the swap soon.

My question is: can I just engage the front ADD into 4wd and then unplug it? So the front axle is always engaged? Then simply engage and disengage 4x4 via the transfer case. (Similar to doing an FJ tube conversion, without actually having an FJ tube)

If this is fine, will my ADD be completely useless when I hook up the fj case? Cause right now due to a tansf actuator problem I get a 4x4 fault and it will not even engage the ADD.

If I can do that, should I? Will the front axle bind in tight turns like it does in 4x4 when the transfer case is in 2wd mode? (Because the front driveshaft and axle will always be engaged)

 

for the other parts I'm not sure what the computer would do, but from the aspect of the ADD always being engaged, it doesn't have the same effect as ebing in 4x4 in regards to steering, my prerunner has no add and it works just fine

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-deleting-add-system.427258/

 

In theory, sure. In practicality, no. The ADD is a geared sleeve that slides over to engage. Without any power to the unit I’d be afraid of the fork being able to slide over time. Some guys have remove the fork assembly, tacked the sleeve in ‘engaged’ or used a hose clamp to
Hold it in place and cover the motor hole with a plate.

I’d keep the ADD, tack/hold the sleeve in place, or install a FJ tube. I wouldn’t just set it and leave it.

 

FINALLY. A clear answer. Thanks man!

 

the worm gear shouldn’t allow it to slide back but there is no point in leaving the whole actuator in place if it’s working. I agree, remove the actuator and put a clamp on the sleeve, the put a block off plate in place and sell the ADD. A new one goes for close to $300 so I’m sure a working used one would sell for at least $100