Nitori's OEM SR Foglight mod!

2020 SR. Well the white connector in the dash has different pin out configuration. Different colors, different slots used and empty. I metered the fuse box fog relay to the dash connector and found no connection on any pin. The wires to the front from ground and the fuse box relay output do have continuity.

Where might I get a schematic?

 

It be nice if you placed a pic. You might have ID'd a different connector...

 

2020 SR Now when I compare to Nitro's picture it looks the same .

What confused me is the shots with the connector apart. The connector is held upside down in relation to how it plugs in.

I can report that this works just fine for the 2020 SR.

 

Got halfway, installed the engine side wire harness, mounted the fog lights and bezels that I got from a member here months ago, I plan to get the stalk switch installed to complete it all in a day or two. Nail biting time.

I took the time to remove the grill and drop the bumper down since I was also installing the MESO headlight trim plates, made the install much easier.

 

So I just finished installing the light stalk, I must have taken 2 hours just figuring it out how to take it apart, thanks to all the posts here detailing the disassembly. Took about 10 minutes to reassemble.

A couple of things, since I was only replacing the light stalk I think it would be best to remove the wiper assembly while still mounted on the steering shaft, I took it off completely and I was trying to find a way to hold the stalk assemblies without breaking them and trying to remove the wiper to transfer to the new light stalk. Mounted on the shaft the wiper stalk can be pulled out easier. Clockspring was frustrating as I was trying to make sure I didn't snap the mount clips. Taping the clockspring in place so it doesn't move helps too, I know I saw that somewhere, just can remember where.

After everything was back in place, I went ahead reconnected the battery and started the truck and let it idle to warm up. I then did a function check on all the stalk functions, wipers first. Intermittent good along with the delay points, all speeds functional. Light stalk, checked momentary and static turn signals, check, Off, parking and driving lights, check, low beam, momentary high beam, static high beams, check. Moment of truth! Turned on the fogs and nada, checked that engine harness and fog light connections all secured. Of all things, I forgot to order the relay, now the waiting game begins.

Also, I think I might have to check the fog bezels, the passenger side sticks out way more that the driver side. I am hoping I did not bend or damage the clips.

 

I had a helluva time with the bezels too. Finally got them in but it was no fun. I figured it was because they were aftermarket but I dunno. Neither have fallen out so all must be good. Sounds like you had more problems installing the stalk assembly than I did. I bought the entire assembly, wiper stalk included. The clock spring snapped back into place with little effort. O well, all's well that ends well.

 

Ugh...just waiting for the relay is getting to me. The dealer parts dept. is closed for quarantine.

 

Stopped by the local NAPA and picked up the relay. SUCCESS! Now I need to double check my bezels and properly aim the fogs. Thanks to Nittori and everyone elso for paving the way for this.

 

I recently did the stalk method and got everything plug in.

all functions work, reg lights, but no fogs

the fog light on the dash comes on
have the relay in
checked the wiring harness that everything is plugged in

but the fogs dont come on

ahhh fixed. The DD sport adaptors go on either way unlike the stocks. I had them flip.

 

Something is amiss. I had no problem with mine. Re check everything. It is pre wired for fogs, right?

 

Odd, where did you get them? Is it possible the bulbs are dead or broken?

 

This switch is supposed to illuminate the text when the dash lights are on, and the picture when switched on. Is there a way to wire it up so that it is illuminated entirely when the dash lights are on? Also, if not, does anyone have any idea how these pinouts should be connected to get it to operate correctly? I understand that black should be chassis ground, but idk which of the others are for illumination and which go to ecu pinout 26.

 

I have a quick question, if we have the blue and white wires in the steering column, what is the white wire for? Is it a ground?
Can we just connect the blue wire and white wire together directly with a switch and have that activate the relay? Or do I have to go find a ground?

Seems like its easier to just tap the two wires there instead of taking the lower dash off.

Also, anyone know the part number for just the plug side of the wiring harness? The plug on my truck says 11153. Anyone look at the foglight harness and read the part number?

 

See this post:
Nitori's OEM SR Foglight mod!
White (8) at the stalk connector C11 goes to ground, so when fog lights are turned on (switch contact closed) this takes pin 9 blue wire (M6 ECU pin 26 connection) to ground. So it would appear that you could indeed tap into the blue and white wires to connect to your separate installed switch, wire 9 tapped to one side of your new dash switch contact, wire 8 white tapped to the other side of the switch contact (wire 8 is already going to ground on pre-wired SRs) OR just wire the other side of your switch contact to ground instead of tapping wire 8 white wire. If I were doing the separate dash fog light switch on a pre-wired, I would just wire my switch contact to the blue wire at M6 ECU connector pin 26 with a wire tap, and the other side of my switch contact either to ground or tap it to an existing ground wire (like on the cargo light connector).

From reading a zillion posts and watching a youtube video, I think I've found a way to do the OEM/ separate switch mod without removing the dash, kickpanel, or any other body parts except for the switch mounting plate. My parts are on order, when they arrive and I install I will post pics of how I do it, the easy way. I hope.
I'm not pre-wired, but if I wanted to do the pre-wired method with a new light stalk with fog lights, I would just wire up to the new stalk and install pins on that connector at 8 & 9, wire pin 9 to connector M6 ECU pin 26, pin 8 to ground - wouldn't be that hard. However I actually prefer to have a separate fog light switch, too much going on already on that stalk for my taste.

 

Yup, I'm with you. This write up is too complicated for me.

I stuck my fingers in and yanked out the left side switch plate with the bed light switch and I replaced it with the one with a cubby in it. I just hate having switch blanks. I removed the lower steering column cover, it was only 2 screws. I used an aftermarket fog switch and wired it to ground the blue wire. I just snipped it and crimped on a spade connector. I'm lazy. Then I tapped the tan and green wires for illumination. I had to use both, because IDK, but otherwise the dimming didn't work. Then I ran a ground to a random body stud under the dash.

While I was at it, spliced in a couple additional switches to the same ground/illumination add on wires. Then I ran a 4 conductor wire to the engine bay next to the battery. I will add some relays later on when I want to add something, but I am done taking apart the dash for now.

The only thing that I would like better is finding some cornflower blue aftermarket switches that match OEM better instead of the dark blue LED ones that appear to be on the market.

Overall, I only removed the switch plate and the lower steering wheel cover. Two screws only. So you can simplify things if you want to.

The dash cluster indicator comes on now when I hit the fog light switch, so I'll call this job done.

 

Sounds good, my plan is to access everything from the left switch cover as well. My SR is not pre-wired so I have to install M6 connector pin 26, but already had the left switch cover off and think I can access it from there as well as the cargo light connector for led lighting.
Curious what brand/model switch did you use for your fog light? I have a Mictuning, took it apart, and with the existing switch design, I tested the switch so sure that only the lower “fog light” label LED light will work using the cargo connector green and tan wires. However the pin 26 to switch green wire and Red 1 to ground will turn on the fogs but won’t illuminate the upper led bulb symbol since switch will take pin 26 to ground thus 0V on that LED. From looking at other aftermarket switches I think that’s true as well if you use the pin 26 OEM method since they are designed to pick up a relay normally which means you would get 12V to the upper led bulb symbol. I took the switch apart and luckily it uses a DPDT switch with the contacts soldered for parallel contacts, so I will modify the circuit board to have one push button contact pick up the fogs via pin 26 to ground and the other contact to power up the top led when the button is pushed using the same cargo light power as the lower led. Will take some desoldering, cutting a trace, and soldering in a couple jumpers but not a big deal I have the stuff to do that.
I also have a CH4x4 switch still in the package but it says it uses a solid state switch so doubt that one could be modified to work to power the upper LED due to the OEM pin 26 to ground method, need two separate contacts.

 

For whatever reason, the tan and green wires have to be used in order for the switch to dim with the other dash lights. If I just use green for power and grounded the other wire it wouldn't dim.

The Fog light symbol is pretty dim, which is fine, but the FOG LIGHTS writing is too bright. I may try to add an inline resistor to drop the current to the added switch night lighting.

I have the mictuning switch, but that's the seller not the brand I think. Its the same as the other ones I ordered. Its a deep blue and not the light cornflower blue of the stock buttons. I ordered several different ones including the iztor, its all about the same.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-Blue-LED-Fog-Light-Bar-Push-Switch-fit-Toyota-Tacoma-4Runner-FJ-Cruiser/264298086361?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3A-Car-Pus...var=522530538133&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

$14 iztor Blue LED Multi-Purpose Fog lamp Switch for Toyota pushbutton Switch with Connector Wire Kit

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MY0TKJC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

That’s the larger 1.52” switch, I got the small form 1.28” tall switch:

$10 MICTUNING Backlit Fog Lights Symbol Push Button with Wiring Kit ON-Off Switch Replacement for Toyota (Blue, Surface Size 1.28 x 0.87"es)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G1QZ6MS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Circuit board design is probably the same but Im not sure.What lights up when you have your fog lights on, the “Fog Lights” LED only, or both the “Fog Lights” LED and the bulb symbol LED? Edit: I see you said your bulb symbol was dim, that could just be light being emitted from the bright “Fog light” text LED below, is the bulb symbol dimly lit even with the button not pushed (fog lights off)? How do you have the four switch wires wired up?
Green to -
Red 1 (beside the green wire) to-
Red 2 (beside the black wire) to-
Black to -
I plan to install my fog lights this weekend and my current plan is to wire as follows:
Switch wires
Green- to M6 ECU connector to pin 26 which I will install (equal to your light stalk blue wire connection)
Red 1 - ground
Red 2 - cargo/deck connector green wire (Illum +)
Black - cargo/deck connector tan wire (Illum-)
Agree with you the only thing that really matters is your fog lights come on and your dash indicator lights when you push the button. The engineer in me though is forcing me to make that switch bulb symbol light up properly too because... it’s there. Lol

 

Nothing lights up. The switch is only illuminated when the headlight stalk is turned on.

When I push the button the fog light green icon appears in the instrument cluster next to the headlight icon.

1) Green to blue headlight wire in steering column
2) Red 1 to ground
3) Red 2 to green illumination wire
4) Black to tan illumination wire

There is only one LED in the switch and no wiring to allow a second one.

 

Rather than add an inline resistor it’s pretty simply to pop open the switch and exchange the existing 1k resistor for a 10k one. Either 1/4w or 1/8w will do. Symbols, lettering, and small rectangular windows all transmit light differently so I’ll often use different resistors for each led.