Receiver hook vs receiver shackle?

Recommendations for using a receiver hook ( ) vs a receiver shackle ( ) whether you are the recoverer or the recoveree? Assume a d-ring shackle with a higher rating than the one shown in the link, so that we're comparing apples to apples.

 

When it comes to safety equipment I generally stay away from harbor freight. In regards to hook vs. shackle, a closed system(shackle) is safer than an open system(hook).

 

Would an open system, like a hook, bend before it broke, reducing the projectile probability?

 

That really just depends on the manufacturing quality of the steel it's made out of (aka how pure the cast is) and also the context in which the pulling force is applied to the hook.

 

OK, thanks.

 

Have you checked out Factor 55? They have some interesting information about closed system winching https://factor55.com/closed-system-winching/ .

 

In theory something else (e.g. the strap) will break long before the shackle; unless something is really amiss.

 

Am I the only one that uses a hitch pin only? Never seen the need for a hitch shackle.

Not being condescending, I just really didnt know they were a thing.

 

I have a hitch receiver with a shackle. I never thought of using just the pin.

Seems it would be just as strong for a straight pull, but what about at an angle where the strap contacts the outer edge of the receiver? Also the shackle is probably easier to attach/detach a strap from? idk

EDIT: also, assuming you have a 2" receiver, how is a 3"+ strap going to fit without folding that might reduce its strength? Just being a devils advocate.

 

I would get something like this instead,

https://factor55.com/product/hitchlink/

The fact they load test the thing I think is good assurance. Secondly, buy a USA made shackle and you should be good to go. If you buy a tow strap, again buy something high quality, I've used the harbor freight strap and under load you could hear it stretching and tearing. Snatch strap is probably better since they are made to stretch.

 

It can work in a bind, but remember that you ideally want a 2" wide strap and that you dont want to side load the strap. Kinks and bends change the load characteristics on a "rope" and create hot spots that can cause it to rip far below its rated weight. Regardless of if you have a shackle or not it's something to always keep in mind. Same goes with shackles, if you side load them the load rating significantly drops.

 

My thought is that the shape of the shackle allows the strap to not deform when being pulled at an angle and that the shackle is many times stronger than the strap.

Why should one not use a strap wider than 2"? Are you saying that a 3" strap is too strong and using one has the risk of the shackle or other connection point breaking before the strap? I suppose that would depend on the load rating of the parts involved. I have a 2" and a 3", but I forget the rating on each.

My general thought is that a shackle is designed as a connection point for straps, chains, and cables and the pin is designed to attach a hitch to a receiver and I'd like to use each for its intended purpose. But like I said since the pin needs to hold the whole load, attaching a strap to it should work just fine as long as the strap isn't deformed or rubbing on sharp edges. YMMV

 

That Harbor Fright hook doodad just looks like it's ready to bust under strain.

 

Intuitively, a shackle seems a lot safer than a hook. For that reason I have wondered why the OR comes with a hook instead of either a shackle mount or a loop. I suppose the reasons are that a) the hook doesn't require a shackle and b) a hook is easier to be attached to the closed loop on the end of a strap.

 

Because forcing a 3" strap in a 2" hole will cause it form kinks and weird bends that create hot load points on the strap and it could break. When you have sharp bends on ropes most of the load will basically go to the outside fibers and they can get overloaded and it will start tearing from there. Granted take this with a grain of salt, a lot of this is theory, unless someone does tests theres no absolute way to know what the breaking strengths are exactly and whether pulling a tacoma will exceed those limits. Just something to think about. You would probably be better off doing a loop around your hitch and double jointing to the other vehicle. Fishermen, rock climbers, sailors for example tie their knots a certain way and it's so that it's strong. If you look at how eyelets are made on industrial grade steel cables, they actually weave it back into the cable before crimping it so that the load is evenly distributed amongst all the strands.

 

I could see the edges of the receiver causing issues over time. My ARB snatch strap fits in the receiver of my truck just fine. Though I've only used it once.

 

Exacly

 

I think we are talking past each other. I thought you were suggesting you wouldn't use a 3" strap in any situation. I was suggesting that using a shackle reduces the risk of the very "kinks and weird bends" that you are referring to.

 

In the rope rescue world at least, soft goods almost always break where the strand enters/exits a knot. Very rare for it to break on the backside/loaded side of a loop. (I'm not sure how exactly that translates to vehicle recovery materials...)