Harmonic balancer - do i have enough room for an impact?

I was in the shop getting my exhaust repaired and the mechanic pointed out that my harmonic balancer was wobbling, probably shot rubber in there. He said it could be a few hour job, so a few hundred bucks. I'm considering tackling this, but not sure if i could get an impact on that bolt head to break it loose. The engine bump method makes me uneasy so thats out. Anyone who has done this job lately have any info for me? I've got a 2004 4x4 standard cab. The shop mentioned that the radiator might have to come out to access the bolt, and when I look down into the bay, it does look really tight.

 

Either remove rad, or do bump method.

Bump method is scary, but its fine as long as you visualize and make sure the engine is rotating the correct way. I like to disable ignition prior to the bump method.

 

I bought a piece of 1/4" X 3 steel 4' long and drilled the appropriate holes and ran some bolts through the holes in the balancer. Put in on one side of the truck down to the ground and loosen the bolt that way, use it the other way to tighten.

 

No need to remove the radiator or to use the "bump" method (although I think the bump method would work in a pinch). And an impact will most likely NOT do the job. I just used a long breaker bar on the bolt and a "Pulley holder,

$81 OTC 4754 Universal Pulley Holder Wrench with Interchangeable pins, black

OTC 4754" (for $54) to keep the pulley from turning.

 

Depends on the size of your impact .

The fun part is after the bolt spins out you can`t get things out your up against the condenser

 

I agree. It was scary first time for me but went exactly as it should.

 

So you're saying that once I actually get the bolt out, there's still no room for a puller to pull the actual pulley out?

 

No what I meant was the back of your impact gun may be against the condenser .

This happens to me quite often in tight areas .

 

I'm thinking I may remove at least the fan to get more room, doesnt look like its possible otherwise. also, for the new HB, the OEM is pricey. Looking on rockauto they range from $35 to $108, all of which are more reasonable than OE. But then looking at the part on the truck, there are other pulleys attached to the HB, which my understanding is that they are just bolted onto the HB, and can be installed right onto the new one.

But then i look at the part on ebay, and they sell some HBs that have all pulleys as a set:


Now, I'm confused. Do I need to buy the set like I see on ebay or just the one pulley?

 

I've used the starter bump method twice on same engine and had no issues. As someone else suggested, make sure to disable ignition so the engine cannot start.

Bolted. See below.

 

When I did my timing belt, I thought I was saving time by not removing the rad, but I ended up wasting a bunch of time, and removing the rad anyway.

And then I STILL ended up doing the bump method, lol. I think my impact wrench wasn't up to the task...

Definitely disable the ignition.

As others have said, you can just use a crank pulley tool, either purchased, or made. There's a sticky for home made crank pulley tools, they're pretty easy to make.

You'll need a pretty long breaker bar. should do the trick. Also make sure you torque it to spec when done, which I think is like 206 ft lbs, or somewhere around there. Hence the need for the long breaker bar...

 

Another thing to use is the high mass 19mm socket from Lisle avail at parts stores. (socket weighs like 8 ozs.)

I always take out my radiator. It's easy and I like lots of room. Then again with stick shift there's no ATF dripping everywhere, I realize if you have to deal with that it's another yecch point.

Edit: Another vote for starter bump though. If disabled ignition and make sure the bar doesn't have a bunch of slack, it works flawless. The bar WILL drop off to the floor but the bolt will be broke loose. Putting it back I just put a dab of blue and tighten as much as impact set normal puts it on. It's close to correct. That bolt isn't picky unless you just leave it loose. Trying to set up all kinds of contraptions to hold and torque makes me more leery of damage than just rattling on and off.

 

regarding taking the balancer off - It matters if you have manual or automatic trans. If manual you can put it in gear and have someone apply the brakes and you can take off the bolt. An automatic will probably need the holder tool. I vote to take the radiator out because it gives more room, less likely to damage it by accident, and you can hose it off to get all the dirt and dust off it so it will transfer heat better. PS I had room for my pneumatic impact gun with the radiator out.
My balancer came right off with no puller needed. Just wait for tightening it back on... thats good for a few laughs.... 146ft lbs. I think

 

Thanks for all the suggestions.

You guys that are removing the radiator, are you removing radiator AND grill or just radiator?

also, when you say disable ignition, what exactly do you mean? Just unplug the spark plug wires? all or just one of them?

 

I did this as well and worked nicely.
I saw a youtube video where the guy used a length of 2X6 pine and it worked.

 

Just the radiator. Good time to wash it inside and out like posted above and flush cooling out and disable ign. by removing a fuse right there in the fuse block under the hood marked EFI. There are lots of fuses and relays that will keep it from starting but that one is foolproof.


https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-tools/19mm-harmonic-balancer-socket

really though, you can find these much cheaper. Prob. get a set on Ebay of some cheapos that will last all your life and fit everything you ever drive. They really knock the hell out of a bigger bolt.

compare:

 

All the things.

Grill, bumper, radiator, etc... It just makes it so much easier to move around. No you don't NEED to remove them, but there are like 4 bolts on the bumper, and my grill is held on with zip ties, so it was a no brainer to take them off, too. Not having the bumper there means you can get in closer to the chassis and lean over easier, etc...

I was able to keep the trans lines intact too (I have a trans cooler so I had a little extra room to move them). That's why the rad is sitting on top, rather than off to the side.

 

anyone know the part number for the crankshaft pulley bolt?