Show off your 3D printed parts

Good advice. He’s printing with PETG. The only way I could get PETG to adhere to the bed was to run a clean glass bed and no cooling. My prints stick so well that you’ll rip chunks of glass from the bed if you try to remove the print before the bed has cooled.

 

Yep... I managed to to just that . The factory glass plate from reality. When I printed the press brake die, I had issues with the print not sticking so I used some glue stick. Other than it has been problem free

 

Every time I’ve used a glue stick with PETG, it’s lifted from the bed a few layers into the print.

 

Only done PLA with the glue stick and that one time, I am.guessing it had to do with the .4mm layer height and not getting a good first layer adhesion.

Went with a .4mm layer for that part since some reading indicated it was a more graceful failure verse a shattering with smaller layer height.

 

Sounds like everyone including me has the same issues with either too much or not enough bed adhesion.. I have ripped chunks off of my BCN3D Sigma glass bed when not wanting to wait for it to cool.. haha

You might want to try Wolfbite- they make bed goop for every kind of filament type- LINK

I have used just about every kind of adhesion helper I could- AquaNet hair spray, glue sticks, ABS slurry, Wolfbite, Magigoo and on and on..

The ones I go to 99% of the time is either the AquaNet or glue stick. If you are going to use either one of those, you have to use the purple "extra super hold" unscented AquaNet and the only glue sticks to use are the

$10 UHU Colored Glue Stick, 1.41oz Blue, rubs on Blue & Dries Clear, Washable, Solvent Free, Screw on Cap, Pack of 2 99653

blue UHU ones.

 

I'm running a pei sheet on my printer. Great bed adhesion. Just wish it would let go when it cooled down. Eventually I'm going to run a dauerdruckplatte. Holds like monkey with it's hand in a coconut while hot and pops off on its own when it cools.

 

This is the result of acceleration. Acceleration comes into play every time the hotend changes direction. Delta and corexy can have much higher acceleration because the moving mass is less. Cartesian printers with moving beds have more mass, and even more as you add plastic while printing. I was able to shave 2 days off a print changing just acceleration.

 

What acceleration to do use?

 

I'm currently at 2000. Going to drop it a little because I am still getting a little ringing. Started at 6,000, ran fine except for the ringing. Was SOOO fast. Might try bigger belts on the next printer.

 

Not really a printed part but I FINALLY got around to installing a part "blower" on my super modified Rostock Max. It's the loop looking thing around the nozzle. I put small pin holes facing down and it runs up to a small air pump. I can adjust airflow in real time via an external potentiometer and within the printer software when creating the gcode.

 

That's interesting, what kind of air pump are you using?

 

I originally used an aquarium pump but then went to this. It's technically considered a vacuum pump but it works well in this application.

 

I use a glass bed with Bedweld adhesion promoter. It works great and hold items down as they print, but releases them easily once cooled. Definitely worth a look into for those having issues. Works great on PLA. ABS. PETG, and other common materials. Another good one to look into is nano polymer. That stuff is amazing.

-PyroTaco

 

Printing the remainder of the v-channel covers today.



I can tell you for a fact that Inland PLA+ has been a horrendous pain in my behind to get to print. 230c initial layer with 225 all consecutive layers. 60c on the bed and a large amount of adhesion promoter. Many failed prints prior to figuring out the right combo and I haven't even mentioned dealing with speed settings. Can't wait for this spool to run out.

-Pyrotaco

 

I agree that PLA+ is garbage. I didn't even finish the spool I had of it. I think the sweet spot for the kind I had was around 215 but was still getting shit adhesion between layers compared to normal PLA. Had some prints that snapped in half just pulling them off the bed.

I have my first print with PETG going right now, fingers crossed I'm able to get it dialed in quickly and mostly use that going forward.

 

Yeah I can tell you I don't plan to use PLA+ again... Or atleast not from Inland. PETG, ABS, and standard PLA print perfectly fine with next to no issues. I think the next filament type I plan to work on will be TPU. Just need to figure out a use case to justify the purchase.

-PyroTaco

 

I tried TPU and it was kinda fun, I found out quickly I need to mod my extruder for it before I try again though. I was printing a mount for a gopro on a drone and about halfway through had spaghetti coming out the back of the extruder. Before that I successfully printed a vase mode rocket that was squishy and cool.

 

Try ESun filament. Amazon sells their entire line of filament- their PLA+ is MONEY.. I use it all the time. In reality- all of their filament is legit, even their uncommon ones like wood and metal.

Also, most PLA should be printed around 205-215c. Anything higher than that and it gets stringy and retraction suffers. If you are only able to print PLA up around 220 and higher- you may want to run hotend calibration.

 

Pla and pla+ are 2 completely different beasts. Inland actually suggests printing high at 225c which I thought was odd as well. Did research and most guys run between 215-230c with inland pla+ to get it to stick and have good layer adhesion. This particular material from this supplier is crap IMHO. I'm sure others work very well. Differing formulations and time of filament creation along with environmental factors also play a huge role.

I'll give esun a shot. Heard nothing but good things. I've had extremely good luck with overture materials. Stuff is like butter and doesn't need a crap ton of heat or anything to work very well.

-Pyrotaco

 

For sure- ESun and MatterHackers filament is pretty much all I use. I have tried everything from 200$ spools of imported PLA to total garbage 5$ spools and I just keep going back to ESun/MatterHackers.

Actually, just ordered some of this- LINK