Anything welding

That's awesome!

 

By way of update, my first planned welding project (Operation Side Skirt) for my son's car is done. The good news is that I didn't need to do any welding to fix it; the bad news is that I didn't need to do any welding to fix it.

Then my wife asked if I can weld the supports that had broken off on the the back of an old stained glass windows. The purpose of the supports is to keep the glass panes from sagging (which is what has ended up happening). After doing some research, the metal between the glass panes is typically lead, and the supports are either lead or zinc, or sometimes steel. Below are the pics, but I think the supports are lead because it looks like they were soldered to the metal between the glass panes, which presumably means they are the same material, and over time some of the solder joints have failed.

Has anyone repaired the supports on stained glass windows before? I don't see how you would be able to solder with an open flame without ruining the glass, so wondering if there are other ways to support the glass.

These first few pics are of the back of the window where I grinded off some of the rust on one of the supports and also the metal between the window panes to see what was underneath:

This one shows one of the solder joints that failed:

 

Alright let’s talk welding tables. I know it’s been discussed before but about to trade my current oversized table/tool box back to my dad for a 40 in box on wheels. Current table top is just under 6 feet Long and just over 3 feet wide. (we will call it 3.5x6 to make it easier)

My dad has a fab block from weld tables.com that I think is 2x3 or 2x4 and I think it is to small (width wise) There are just certain projects That it would have been nicer to have a bigger table.

with that said, I think my current table is to big.

I think I want a table that’s 3 feet Or 30 in wide but only 4-5 feet long but am looking for others opinions and experiences.

plan is to get the weld tables pro top (non fab block) but unsure what size to get. Probably on be 1/4 in thick as well. I think 3/16 is to thin for a top that will get hit with a hammer and metal etc.

One I’m looking at https://weldtables.com/collections/...ng-table-top-kit-certiflat-by-tab-slot-u-weld


Table will go on wheels with feet that lower. Working with a 2 car garage that is already stuffed full so everything is going on wheels to make it easier to work in the garage as I acquire more and more tools

Picture of current table. (Ignore the junk, packing for a trip)

 

Mines 3 x 4. I think it's perfect.

 

I think for that project, unless you have experience with stained glass work, you might be better off finding someone local that can repair it. I think you’re likely causing more damage that is already there by trying to fix it if you don’t have experience with it. My dad used to do stained glass and it’s an art with an acquired skill.

 

Thought of getting two 2x3 tables? Build the bases in such a way you can clamp them together and form either a 2x6 or 4x3 depending on your needs.

 

Thanks, that confirms my intuition. Strike 2, hopefully the third time is a charm finding my first welding project. I may go straight to my trailer project; retrofitting an old motorcycle trailer to be multi-functional. In the meantime I'll keep practicing; I'm still having a blast just doing that.

 

Brilliant idea

 

This is what I did. I have a 2x3 and 3x4 from weldtables.com and I married them together to make a 3x6. I love it

 

I hadn’t really considered . I think it would be the best way just not super cost effective. I could also do One being the fixture table and the other just being a solid flat top. Thanks for the idea

 

No open flame for soldering. Use a torch that heats a hand iron to melt the solder.

 

I just built a table that’s 30x60 on rollers with a 3/8 top and supports under the whole thing. I think that’ll be the perfect size for my home shop

At my old work we had big jig tables and also smaller tables and for the most part I tended to use the smaller 5x3 tables

The pics are just to give you an idea. I threw it together out of scrap and put locking casters on the bottom (not pictured)... also the table top is not on as it just got back to me from being cut today

 

Not welding, but the knowledge is here. Anyone have tips for removing this bolt without destroying anything?

 

Might I recommend the appropriately sized allen key?

 

haha. I got that far...

this joker is stuck in there real good

 

Unfortunately there's not much else I can recommend. That bolt just threads into the other side of that aluminum top hat. And with it being the pretty anodized aluminum damn near anything you do will mar it up. It doesn't look like the head is rounded off. I would just try harder to get it to come undone. When I took mine out it took a good bit of force but it finally cracked free. Just make sure the tool is completely seated in there.

 

did you do anything to keep the top hat from pressing into the reservoir fitting when loosening it?

 

I don't remember. I may have clamped the top hat into a vice.

 

I was being dumb / scared to force it. All
Good now

 

Very nice, glad you got it free.