Wheel Backspacing for 35's

Hey all, I'd like to get some ideas on what the best backspacing is for fitting 35's.
Using SCS as an example, they have a 16x8 in a 4.3 backspacing and a 16 x8 in a 3.5" backspacing.

I'd like to not have to cut the fenders, and will probably do a cab mount relocation.

I'd also like to be able to not have to use wheel spacers.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/intro-to-fitting-35s-3-lifts.594309/

 

Thanks Dirk,
I've read that book a couple times, and from what I got from it is that the backspacing is kinda what I listed with a few 4.5" bs, I guess I'm hoping to hear from a couple folks who didn't have to do fender trimming..

 

Anyone

 

Wheel spacers will make it MUCH harder to fit 35s. The wheel spacer acts like an arm that the wheel rides on, so it obviously is going to travel much further front to back that way.
In general, the more backspacing the better for fitment up until the point you can no longer clear the UCAs and spindles.
With that being said, in general you get a more aggressive, 'off-roady' kind of appearance with more negative wheel offset or less backspacing, so there are tradeoffs in both directions. Also, less backspacing/more negative wheel offset will lead to worse aerodynamics and increased fuel consumption

 

Quick reference-
Inset/low negative offset/high backspacing wheels:

Typically found on sports cars but across all applications leads to better aerodynamics, efficiency, and in this case a smaller footprint when turning so less interference with body panels. The only risk as I mentioned before is hitting the UCA if you have wide wheels or tires.
Offset/high negative offset/low backspacing wheels:
This type of wheel gives a more aggressive appearance but really isn't good for anything else tbh. Increased fuel consumption, increased steering effort, increased wear of steering components, typically higher weight, less clearance on trails and everywhere else, and 'scrub' or a misalignment of the tire centerline and suspension motion axis leading to decreased turning grip.
That all being said, depending on how aggressive you go offset wheels can look good which is why people still do it despite the many negatives.

 

You'll do best with 4.3

 

Seems like a big ask for 35's.

Maybe it happens though, with specific tire dimensions and wheel fitment.

May I ask what you expect 35's will accomplish for you in your use of the truck? Over something like a well known 33?

Sometimes more is better. Sometimes not.

 

I guess I should have explained that I understand the concept of backspacing, I'm looking for specific info from some of y'all who are running 35's who got away from having to cut their fenders

 

lots of backspacing, and don't even think about wheel spacers as they will make fitment with the fenders way worse. as @OMGitsme said, 4.5" BS, hopes, and prayers are your best bet. 35s are big tires man, but your best bet would be the Kendals Klever 35x10.5s on an 8-9 inch rim with 4.5 BS. Those kendas are currently the only 35x10.5" tire on the market and I would think that's your best shot at fitting them without trimming.

 

Im running the 16x8 scs wheels with 4.3bs. Im on 315/75/16 km3's. I have the cmc, smashed pinch weld and some cutting in the fender liner and slightly on the bottom rear of the front flares. No rubbin on normal day to day driving (its my daily) but a lot has to do with getting a good alignment also.

 

I'm running SCS 17" with 4.3" of BS. True 35"x12.5"x 17 General Grasper Tires. CMC, 3" ADS lift, pinch weld hammered, all fender lining removed. Daily driving I'm fine even at full lock. But as soon as Im off road on the trail and any kind of elevation change it will rub in the front (Full Lock). I have trimmed @2.5" on the front and @2" in the rear on the fenders. What lift are you running?