The Lair

I've already changed my mind within the past 47 seconds.

So I built my current bumper around my winch, the smittybilt XRC 9.5. I built this bumper to be tight as fuck. I'm replacing the winch with a warn and I have no idea if it'll fit in there. If it doesn't, then I'll build a new bumper that'll fit the winch*.





*probably

 

Clean as FAWK

 

So the crown lines are not good to use? Can you hear air leaking out of the breather hose when the locker is engaged that's usually the tell tale sign it's leaking. Matt from BK has been wheeling his JK for like 2-3 yrs now with a leaking front locker with no ill effects if that's any reassurance.

I didn't need any of that goop stuff on my solenoids or any of the fittings using the ARB lines no leaks. Only leak I had to contend with was the pressure switch.

 

The lines are great, the fittings they supply are not. i.e. that adapters to connect the line to the diff/solenoid. It's hard as shit to get them to seal. I'm going to check the breather hose later today and see if it's leaking internally and pressurizing the front diff.

If it is leaking internally, I wouldn't have known with the powertank setup since no compressor to cycle obviously. I'm kicking myself a little for trying to go against the grain and not just using the tried and true methods, but not a big deal. It's just a learning experience.

 

What tried and true methods? Just using the ARB lines? ARB also sells the braided lines probably with the correct fittings just the longest possible one is 3m iirc

 

Yes just using the supplied fittings and hose. They're all designed to work together and not leak at all.

In my digging this morning I found that ARB recently started supplying a thicker-walled hose (the black hose) so it's much more durable. When properly routed and protected from heat there shouldn't be any issues.

 

I had hoped to maybe use these thangs:

$58 Edelbrock RUS-634510 ARB Hose Kit

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014B9K32/?coliid=IBN6RAWOKZ95V&colid=V2DPLUSYXPEL&psc=1

$35 Russell by Edelbrock 634500 ARB Hose Kit (RUS-634500)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014B7YEO/?coliid=I3V5041VQV114K&colid=V2DPLUSYXPEL&psc=1

$119 Russell 634520 ARB Hose Kit

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014B7YDA/?coliid=I15FE72085T9AR&colid=V2DPLUSYXPEL&psc=1

Randy, if you end up using their plastic hose, I'm going to assume it's just like air suspension hose. The cuts have to be perfectly square or you run the risk of leaks.

 

That's the line that came with mine. For the rear lines I ran it along the hard brake lines on the axle to the brake hoses and then ziptied to the brake hose to use it as a support and kind of a protector. The front I ran just ziptied to the hard brake lines in the frame. Since I have my compressor mounted in the passenger front corner of my bed in a plastic ammo can. I was thinking of the braided hose mainly for the rear since it has to articulate and is a lot more exposed to potential abrasion and damage.

 

Those look just like the fittings supplied with the hose that I got. Seriously, I would recommend just using the supplied black hose. Just use this near the headers.

$22 Design Engineering 010470 Fire Sleeve and Tape Kit 3/8" I.D. x 3ft Heat Protection for Wires, Hoses, etc.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001HYQO30/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The way I route my hose, I go right down into a frame hole next to the headers and then route it back in the frame rail to the rear axle. Only a small portion of the hose will be exposed to heat and the stuff I linked will work great. That's what I had on the ARB hose when I was actuating it off my powertank.

 

Someone in another thread suggested taking some normal 3/8" air hose, like you'd use on a shop compressor, and routing the arb line through that. Just another layer of protection. I thought that was a good idea.

 

This is what I was looking at, that's a good idea too. I guess I am more worried with the "flexibleness" of that black hose over time compared to the stainless. It not kinking or collapsing on it's self and getting a leak or failure to engage/disengage.
https://arbusa.com/site/wp-content/uploads/Air-Systems_no-map.pdf

 

You could always run the black plastic hose back through the frame and above the axle and then connect a braided line to it that drops down to the axle. Like the hard brake lines. That would be cool and pretty easy.

 

Yeah that's true all I'd really need was a couple of bulkhead fittings possibly.

 

It’s confirmed that the front diff leak is internal. I sprayed the diff breather with soapy water and it’s pressurizing it. I really don’t want to deal with the front diff and shipping again so I’m going to make a trip to ecgs and let them deal with it. That won’t happen until baby is a monthish old though and mother in law is here to help out.

 

Well that's just sucky. I could drive it down for you, if you trust my nunchuck skills.

 

I appreciate the offer. I’m thankful it’s nothing time sensitive since it’ll only occur infrequently off-road. With no trips pending, I have some time to get it worked out.

 

I was only half-serious! I mean, if you had said yes I would've done it.....

 

Is the TJM air locker supposedly a better product?

 

Allegedly, yes, due to the seal design. But if this is leaking this soon after install, my money is on an installation error not the seal failing with age/wear.

 

I was just curious. It's a little less money than the ARB.