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Off-Grid Engineering Dual Battery System Q&A

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by HeliMedic, Jan 5, 2017.

  1. May 5, 2020 at 6:31 AM
    #641
    SR-71A

    SR-71A Define "Well-Known Member"

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  2. Jun 11, 2020 at 3:24 PM
    #642
    jmoto

    jmoto Active Member

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    Where did you pick up that voltage meter? Really like the clean setup!
     
  3. Jun 11, 2020 at 6:47 PM
    #643
    dbrfan

    dbrfan Well-Known Member

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  4. Aug 5, 2020 at 8:05 PM
    #644
    PinoyTaco27

    PinoyTaco27 Well-Known Member

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    Can anyone provide me the length of Battery cable you used for the side by side setup? Which guard wire is best to run 1/0AWG or 2 AWG? What’s size cable ends (5/16 or 3/8) are used from battery to ML-ARC?
     
    Last edited: Aug 5, 2020
  5. Aug 17, 2020 at 5:58 PM
    #645
    sr5vic

    sr5vic Buy & Hodl

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    @PinoyTaco27 the kit comes with 2AWG wire and the ML-ACR has 3/8 studs.
     
  6. Oct 6, 2020 at 9:00 PM
    #646
    CoWj

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    After a long hiatus, this forum now has a Forum contact at Off Grid Engineering. Feel free to tag me in any questions you may have about the products and I will be happy to answer in a timely manner.
     
    Last edited: Oct 6, 2020
    MGMSangTaco, PilotMM, DocME and 5 others like this.
  7. Oct 7, 2020 at 4:31 AM
    #647
    NukedTaco

    NukedTaco Well-Known Member

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    Good to know. You might want to give a shout in the dual battery thread.
     
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  8. Oct 7, 2020 at 6:21 AM
    #648
    CoWj

    CoWj Lost and Found at the same time.

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    Yup! I'll make a post in there! I just wanted to make sure we attended to this thread first incase anyone had any burning questions about an OGE product.
     
  9. Oct 7, 2020 at 7:30 AM
    #649
    Littles

    Littles Stupid is as stupid does.

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    Glad to hear you guys are back. You offer great products and from my personal experience great customer service.
     
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  10. Oct 7, 2020 at 8:08 AM
    #650
    CoWj

    CoWj Lost and Found at the same time.

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    Happy to be back! Awesome to hear you enjoy our products!
     
  11. Oct 8, 2020 at 9:30 AM
    #651
    TacoEspecial

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    Hi @CoWj, what crimper do you recommend?
    Harbor Freight's owes me some store credit and they have one I was looking at.
    Do you happen to know if this one would work for your side-by-side kit? Also, do you folks have a kit for the big 3?
     
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  12. Oct 8, 2020 at 10:06 AM
    #652
    CoWj

    CoWj Lost and Found at the same time.

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    Yes, that is the one that we recommend. That will work perfectly to crimp on the positive battery extension.
    Big 3?
     
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  13. Oct 8, 2020 at 10:51 AM
    #653
    crashngiggles

    crashngiggles Tacomaworld's Resident Psych Dr.

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    I have used this one before. Just keep in mind that it will not work with 0 AWG wiring. Anything less will work but the grips of it will not open up enough for a 0 AWG wire terminal even though it has a crimping chuck for a 0 AWG. I did my BIG 3 with 0 awg. That is how I know.
     
  14. Oct 8, 2020 at 10:52 AM
    #654
    DaveInDenver

    DaveInDenver Not Actually in Denver

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    Unexceptional
    An article written a few years ago by Rod Collins has good information about lug crimpers and what constitutes a good vs bad crimp. Those HF are OK (as long as they last without leaking anyway) if you take the time to figure out how they're calibrated and marked. The larger sizes are not possible and as a result it's really only capable up to about 4 or maybe 2 AWG.

    https://marinehowto.com/making-your-own-battery-cables/
     
  15. Oct 8, 2020 at 10:53 AM
    #655
    TacoEspecial

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    Increasing the wiring size of the integral wires on the vehicle for the 3 main electrical points.
    1) Battery to the alternator power wire
    2) Engine to chassis ground
    3) Negative battery to ground point
     
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  16. Oct 8, 2020 at 10:56 AM
    #656
    CoWj

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    So we don't offer a direct kit for the Big-3 however we do build custom wires, 4AWG, 2AWG and 1/0AWG wiht different sized lugs as needs. Which would allow for a easy method of doing the Big-3.
    While I can't link directly to our page, go to OffGrid4x4 .com, products, services, custom battery cables.
     
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  17. Oct 8, 2020 at 11:08 AM
    #657
    CoWj

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    We find that they can't open enough to get over the go directly over the butt connector from the side, however if you slide it down the wire it does fit over the butt connector. And of course there are instructions on how to do in with the kit. We have always recommended the yellow handled hydraulic crimpers you can get on ebay, and haven't had an issue with them not fitting for customers.
     
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  18. Oct 8, 2020 at 11:21 AM
    #658
    CttAznRanger

    CttAznRanger Crazy NE Asian with the Cali Lean (temporary)

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    I ended up using a vise and a ball bearing on Rick's 2/0 cable. I also did a separate method of using a flat tip masonry chisel to bang it in.
     
  19. Nov 7, 2020 at 1:08 PM
    #659
    twblanset

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    In the original picture of the wiring there is a negative wire running from the main battery to the aux. Is there a reason to run a wire instead of using the truck body as the negative like the main battery does?
    I didn't read through all 33 pages, so if the answer is in there, I apologize but I don't have 33 pages of extra time.

    And I've crimped wires using a blunt masonry chisel like mentioned above and it works just fine. Haven't had any trouble with the ends years later.
     
  20. Nov 7, 2020 at 1:33 PM
    #660
    CoWj

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    Great Question!
    That is our ML-ACR kit, in which we do have the batteries connected through the negative. Our DC-DC REDARC kit do link through the chassis due to a much lower charging amperage. 25amp vs 130amp.
    The reason why we have our batteries hard connected negative to negative, is so that we can guarantee that there are no restrictions on how many Amps the batteries can be charged at. By linking the batteries through the chassis you might end up with a restriction. especially when you are using both batteries to start the truck or winch. The ML-ACR which links the batteries can handle up to 500amp charging. That is far greater than the 130amp rating of most Toyota Alternators. But 130amp is still a lot to ask to be sent through the sheet metal of the truck. Even using large gauge wire to connect the battery to a factory ground it is still relying on the spot welds that hold the inner fender on to transfer all that energy between the batteries. So by linking them together with 2AWG Welding Cable, there is no chance of the connection between to batteries is the restriction of charging or draining ability.
     
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