TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

I went off info in Post #1,

but should have checked, since it appears NGK Heat Range 6 corresponds to Denso 20...

Looks like NGK LFR7AIX / 2309 is more appropriate. Thanks for the catch, @Torspd!

@JuanitoBunito, take note!

 

Heres mine. Camera audio makes it sound more pronounced than it really is. What belt setup are you running? Ive suspected "wah wah" could be from running a smaller belt on the roush tensioner with the Roost wrap mod. Possibly too much tension so intend to do stock belt size again and remove the pulley wrap mod although it's currently adjusted at minimum tension

 

I would remove the pulley wrap mod and recheck it. Mine makes noise also but I know what noise is normal and what is not at this point.

Have you done the solid coupler mod yet? That tends to amplify noises also, since the spring portion of it has been removed so internal noises get louder.

 

That is the plan to remove the wrap mod. I have a solid coupler and plan to install it at some point when I next do blower maintenance. I suspect I might have a small exhaust leak on my DS header as well.

 

So then I would need the 8, to follow suit. Thanks for that reference chart.

 

oem one. Which it wasn’t really it’s fault, I think who ever installed my supercharger tried to gap it or dropped it.

 

Yep. Imagine my surprise seeing that I have been running it like that for 30k miles lol.

 

So just to clarify. The 2309’s are the ones I need right?

 

Credit for that goes to @BillDaCat8.

I believe so, but am hoping for additional confirmation of that. (They appear identical in every way, except their cooler heat range.)

I returned my NGK LFR6AIX-11/ 6619 this afternoon. I have NGK LFR7AIX / 2309 in my virtual basket, but haven't checked out yet.

 

I'm running the 6 range right now -NGK LFR6AIX-11/ 6619.

Just ordered the 7s - NGK #2309.

I'm working with JustDSM on some current logs with the 6s and all things remaining the same should be able to get logs with the 7s for comparison if he can spot any noticeable differences

 

Are we too late for the Dawg Party?

This is my Trial Dawg. Looking skinny after a week on the trail.

He's gonna get ya!

American Akita- Designed in Japan, built in the America. Just like my Tacomas.

 

Wow, I am away less than a day and huge responses - you guys are the best. I finished my last tour and have a couple weeks before my next job starts up... Time to get all the routine maintenance done I have been putting off. Today was Front Differential and Transmission Flush. More on that later....

I also dropped a note to Magnuson Tech Support, from the initial response, they don't seem to think it is normal either. I haven't done anything with the questions or suggestions yet, I will press forward through the week on this.

From Magnuson:

"Karl,

Thank you for contacting Magnuson Superchargers!

Do you still have the stock airbox? Can you reinstall it and see if the noise goes away?

If it is still there can you Take off the supercharger drive belt and see if the noise goes away?

Does it sound like it is coming from a pulley or from the supercharger itself.

Thank you,
Ryan"

I will start checking pulleys and bearings.

Interesting that a couple of us have the same sound.

I will give this a try too. Seems to be coming from pretty high in the engine bay, right around the S/C though. I would have never thought alternator on this one.

Thanks! If you happen to remember or have info saved, I'd be super interested. Off to hunt through the FAQs later tonight.

To me, this sounds exactly like mine, like I was standing in front of my own truck.

I am on a 2.8 pulley, stock belt and stock tensioner. No pulley wraps.

No solid coupler for me.

 

The sound is not present at initial cold start idle, but once I place the truck in gear, it starts and then after warmup is there at idle.

 

So I am in a 2012 with only 51k miles. I had changed the gear oil in my rear diff and transfer case at 40k, but never got around to the front diff. The rear was as expected - gross. The transfer case looked like new - so I assumed my front diff would look good.

I was wrong. Very dark with about a 1/4 inch of gunk on the magnet and tiny particulate throughout the oil. Seemed pretty thin too, almost watery. Best guess is that because I do very little in 4x4 I am probably not heating it up often enough to drive condensation out of the gear oil. This is exactly the same reason I told my self it was going to be fine - I do very little in 4x4.... Resetting my diff fluid changes to every 25k.



Next up was the Transmission Flush using @mountain lion's writeup (https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/diy-full-flush-for-automatic-transmission.68462/ )

Tranny fluid looked better than my diffs, but not great for 51k miles. Pretty dark in the brown/pink spectrum. No burned smell though, so at least there is that. Pretty easy, but I did feel like I took a bath in tranny fluid when the hose from my pump popped off and soaked me down .



Keep your fluids fresh gentlemen. Now back to superchargers and all things that blow .

 

Never too late for pictures of good bois!

 

Ah crap. I typo'ed that one. I went back some time ago and fixed the part numbers but it looks like I forgot to fix the NGK long/ short numbers. Good catch guys, it has been corrected. Run 7's (the vast majority of us here) and boost on.

 

If I were you I would check out blower pulley bearings first THEN pull the belt off if all the bearings check out okay. I would go with the step involving the least amount of work first then move on in the succession. Remove the belt, reinstall the tensioner then run and see if the noise goes away, if it doesn't, check out the alternator voltage regulator next, if not, start checking engine bearings and idlers. Something as simple as spinning them and checking them for lateral play is really the only way to check their integrity since most of them are covered once the blower bracket and belt is installed and booming. Keeping it simple is the name of the game here. If literally all checks out okay, then it's a camera audio amplification thing and continue running the truck as nothing is wrong.

 

So I may be late with this comment. But, the way, wah, wah.....try looking at your evap system. See if it coincides with the tank vent valve. Also do the gents that experience this issue has issues filling the tank? Like the nozzle shutting off while filling? Even it it is once. If the charcoal canister is plugged or partially plugged it could cause the noise as it sucks the fuel vapors into the engine to burn them. Yes, that is on all cars, not just Commiefornia. Just some food for thought.