Tacoma Travel Trailer Towng: Read If You Consider Buying An RV

Just watch your payload which a lot of folks ignore . There are a lot of trucks that pull a lot of things well. Just hope your never in wreck. The attorneys will eat you alive .

 

Nothing really. I have the 8k torsion bar version (gives a couple extra inches of clearance). Pull a Grand Design 17MKE that is 4800 dry, Works GREAT!. I also have the Roadmaster spring kit to go with it instead of air bags. Love the setup. Really stable.

 

A bit of background before I start this post... I previously had a 2019 Sport with a Tekonsha P3 brake controller. I had the Toyota dealer's vendor install the Tekonsha P3 when I bought the truck and not only did they cut the wiring harness out and direct wire it, but they did it wrong! I found that out when I picked up my new camper (Apex Nano 208BHS) in the spring of 2019 and hooked up the trailer electrical connection. The P3 got REALLY hot and didn't recognize anything was connected. Like burning hot! Luckily the guys at the camper dealer also sold that controller, so they took a look, saw the bad wiring job, and were able to fix it for me. It looked like everything was working from that point on, as it recognized the trailer connection and didn't get hot, but it didn't really seem to do a whole lot in hindsight. Also I had AirLift airbags put on the truck by the same Toyota dealer vendor and they never really worked, didn't really hold air well, and completely failed before I even got to try them with my camper. So while I technically had them on there, for all intents and purposes they weren't and I just had stock suspension.

For reference, here was the Tekonsha P3 in the 2019:


Fast forward to this year, I now traded in my 2019 (because I didn't want a truck with the above and other screw ups) for a 2020 Off-Road. I, myself, have installed two components I'll talk about here.

First, due to the left side panel changes on the 2020 (added the buttons for traction control and 360* camera where the cubby used to be), I couldn't fit the P3 anymore and so instead of moving it to the new truck I got a Redarc Tow-Pro Elite and put it in. (The Redarc also looks much better, in my opinion!)

Here is the Redarc in the 2020 (using a @MESO custom panel and a special mounting plate made for the Redarc):


Second, I wanted something low-to-no maintenance and with no worries of leaking, so I went with the

$299 SSR-612-47 | SumoSprings Rear for Toyota Tacoma, Black

SumoSprings black 1000# bumpstops. I figured with a topper (the previous 2019 had an OEM tonneau) and the trailer, I wanted a little more than the blue 500# ones, so went with 1000#.

So, due to covid and other crap this summer, we only made it out camping once this summer and that was back when I still had the 2019. So I hooked the Apex up on Friday, for the first time with my 2020, to bring it over to be winterized. While hooking it up I wondered how squat would be affect by the SumoSprings, so I tried it with and without the weight-distributing bars hooked up. In case anyone else is interested on their effect on squat, here you go!

Just before hooking up. Only weight on the truck suspension is the topper:


Hitch connected with full weight, jack retracted off ground/brick, and no WD bars:



As you can see there is a bit of squat in the rear, but not nearly as much as without the SumoSprings. On my 2019, the rear end would be bottomed out and the front way up when I did this of course.

For comparison, here it is hooked up properly with the WD bars on:




If I was really on the ball I would have measured it as well. I have to hook it up next week and bring it to winter storage, so maybe I'll try to do so then, if there is any interest.

Of course with the weight of the trailer I believe it is engaged with and solidly sitting on the SumoSprings (it very nearly does with just the weight of the topper), and I have to say I think it helps with drivability. It doesn't feel as squirrelly since the back end can't shift around as much, or at least that is how it feels to me. Not that it was that bad before, but I think there is a definite improvement!

Circling back the to the brake controller thing, I also noticed MUCH more engagement with the trailer's brakes. When I hit the brakes I could really feel the trailer slowing down and pulling on the truck! I never really could get that with the P3, even turned all the way up, and now it is making me think maybe the bad wiring fried the P3 and it might have never really been actually working properly.

I know some people are against towing much of anything more than a wet fart with our Tacoma's. While I thought it was OK with my 2019, I could see why some weren't comfortable with it, especially a brick wall like campers tend to be. But with the improvement of the SumoSprings (or bags if that is your thing, I think they'd be similar) assisting the suspension and what seemingly is a much more functional brake controller, I feel totally confident in my Tacoma pulling this ~4000lb trailer!

Really hoping we can get out for many more trips next summer, including some longer extended ones!

 

Appreciate the write up and photos.

I'm interested in adding something like the Sumo Springs to my rig for towing in addition to the already owned WDH, but I just don't want to limit the range of the suspension articulation at all times when not towing. And I don't really want to mess with setting up a whole air system to run air bags. Not quite sure what to do as with just the WDH, I'm pretty happy with the performance, but I imagine a helper spring would do a lot in regards to reducing the bounciness in some of the bigger bump spots.

 

Yeah I may do an AAL or upgraded leafs/suspension/lift eventually in the future, but for now this does seem to be helping the stock suspension when towing and really isn't too noticeable when I'm not.

 

Check out the Roadmaster active suspension. Works great for me with a Grand Design 17MKE. And it rides better when not towing too.

 

Brief update if anyone is interested... I pulled my camper to storage over the weekend (technically Friday) and remembered to measure as I was hooking it up this time!

You can see in my previous post, but just a reminder I have a 2020 Off-Road with stock suspension, SumoSpring bumpstops, and a Leer 100XL topper. With just the topper on it just barely is NOT on the SumoSprings.

With just the hitch in the receiver but no trailer weight on the truck, I measured at 35 1/4":


I put the trailer on the hitch but did not connect the weight distributing bars and raised the jack until it was off the ground. So this is on the stock suspension + Sumos. It measured at 34" even:


I jacked the trailer back up and reconnected it this time properly with the weight distributing bars. Again after it was hooked up I brought the jack up off the ground so the weight was fully on the truck. With that configuration I measured it at 35 1/8":


So there you go! The WDH still makes a very big impact, even if you have something like the SumoSprings installed. I didn't expect them to be a replacement of course, but they do help I think in a couple regards. It feels like it gives more stability on the road, possibly because it is a more direct "connection" between the frame and the axle. At least that is what my butt dyno tells me. Also, it does help some with squat when not using the weight distributing bars, such as when I'm backing it up since I generally remove the WD bars for that if any significant turning is required.

After it was hooked up I brought the camper to storage. See you next spring!

 

@deusxanime, I wonder if that 1/8 inch difference between the measurement without the trailer and the one with the trailer and WD hitch was just tire deflection? If you measure from the center of the hub instead of the ground it will give you a more accurate look at what the suspension is actually doing.

I measured when I was setting up my hitch and I was exactly the same for unloaded and with the trailer hitched and WD hitch set once I had everything adjusted.

 

That's a good point and wouldn't surprise me. I keep forgetting to air up some to stiffen the wheels when I'm towing, which I should probably do.

That also brings up another question that maybe would be good to ask here. Has anyone switched from the stock SL/C rated tires to LT/E rated and what was the effect on towing? Notice any significant difference when towing and with extra weight on them? I have the stock Off-Road tires right now but will probably upgrade them in the spring. Debating on sticking with the stock rating or jump up to E rated, or maybe find something in the middle like a D rated, if I can. Of course the extra weight of the tire though would effect your every day MPG too.

Wondering about the opinions of people who have made the switch and towed with them.

 

I run a LT tire with a C load rating. The added weight of a D or E rated tire is going to have a detrimental impact on towing and the C rated tires exceed capacities for the truck's GVWR. The Tacoma isn't heavy enough to justify E rated tires unless you're looking for increased puncture resistance off road.

 

do you still have this same set up? im thinking of towing something with similar weight with my 1st gen.. Any stories or advise you care to share?

 

I dont see any discussions about manual trans and needing a cooler. do they not get hot at all while towing? Sorry if this is a stupid question

 

From my understanding, the fluid (and fluid pressure) in an auto transmission is what actually couples the engine to the rest of the drivetrain. Towing causes that fluid to need to be at higher pressures and "work" more, thus it heats up more. In a manual, once you are in gear, the engine/transmission is physically connected together and the fluid in there is just for lubrication and I don't think heats up any more than usual.

Hopefully that super high level overview is right, someone correct me if I'm wrong or explain better if you can.

 

Hi, new on this thread and recently bought a (new to me) 2018 Micro Minnie tt to pull with my 2019 Sport. Dry weight is just over 3700 and probably under 4700 fully packed. Planning a trip this spring from Houston up and over to NH and down the coast to Florida then back. Already planning on upgrading the tires and we use an Andersen WDH. After a few shorter trips it seems to pull ok, the WDH made a big difference in the porpoising, but I still white knuckle it with passing trucks and wind gusts although I generally stay at 55-60. I'm also concerned with going through mountain areas. Any mod suggestions on what might make for a more relaxing trip? Plus I've never used any gears outside the typical R, N, D but it seems I may need to figure that out too for steeper inclines. Sorry for the newbie questions!

 

You want to tow in 4th w/ECT on . Be sure to get at bigger tranny cooler and scangauge or ultragauge to keep an eye on your tranny temps.
Time and experience will help with wind gusts and tracker trailers passing you. Keep both hands on the wheel and you will be fine. Leave lots of room between you and other vehicles, and always plan lane changes well ahead of time. It gets easier the more miles you have under your belt.

 

A 2019 Sport I believe should already have the tow package, which includes the extra trans cooler with the automatics. Even so, if you are going to be driving it a lot and up/down mountains, then a scanguage or at least an app on your phone to monitor trans temp is a good idea. I believe you can do that with the Torque app on Android (there's a thread with the PID you need to input to see it), not sure on iOS.

Driving in S-4 mode with ECT on is recommended for an AT, as @KissmyTaco said. Maxing out at 60mph is a good idea as well as leaving a lot of space for braking, as you said. Some shorter trips to get a good feel for it wouldn't be a bad idea if you are able!

 

OV Tune is a great idea too!

 

Yeah that's true too! Is there a specific towing tune, or just the general benefits from the generic tune?

 

I am using the one from PapaRee

read this thread.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/vf-tuning-for-at-tacoma’s-tune-files-in-first-post.693221/

 

Yes it does and it is totally inefficient if you are doing any significant mountains. Replacing with a larger cooler or adding a 2' cooler in series will make all the difference in the world. I have yet to do mine, but I was at 240* at my torque converter going up 6% grades with temps in the mid 80's in AZ.
There are many brands of temperature gauges available, I threw out the 2 that are most commonly discussed on this forum. Anyone will work.