DIY Bolt-On Frame Plates for Sliders

When I had mine cut I learned that you gotta find a shop with a plasma table not water jet or anything fancy. I paid about $220 to have both plates plasma cut and about $75 to have both plates bent. I was quoted $600+ from the company’s that do water jet. Another issue I found. Which is just horrible business is that allot of shop give high quotes because they don’t wanna do a small project they aren't making money off of.

 

Why is that horrible business? Why would they want to do a job where they don't make money?

 

I didn’t fraise it right. They’re making money. But it’s a lack of interest in small projects. Shops only care about big industrial stuff usually. They don’t care about the little guy

 

Sounds like they might be making some money, but it's probably distracting from their core business. Can't really fault them for focusing on what keeps the lights on. There's someone out that focuses on one-off jobs and others that focuses on big, high volumes jobs.

 

All depends where you are I guess. I’m in Fairbanks Alaska we have three shops that have the ability to cut these. And that’s it. The shop that did it is a great shop they had no problems doing it. There all about the little guys. If they have the time and space on the table. The other two shops wanted nothing to do with it. Want $600+ for a 20 min job. All depends I guess.

 

I have a CNC plasma table at my work shop I can use for free. I was debating on outsourcing this to a water jet or laser. For those that have had them plasma cut have you had any issues? While my plasma is great for signs I don’t know if it has the tolerances for something this precise.

Second question: I did some measuring and it seems the file does not fit my 19’ access cab. I’m going to print out a life size paper version glued to cardboard with the holes cut out to actually see if the design works, before I cut the metal.

 

Already modified for the 3rd gen. DCSB should have the same frame as your ACLB. Plasma should be more than sufficient if you have enough power to cut 3/16 plate cleanly. these are not super tight tolerance.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/diy-3rd-gen-sliders.534658/

 

I'm starting to design another set of sliders for my truck! It'll be interesting to see how much the frame plates will cost now. I've used the same shop for several years for all my cut/bend needs and they have always been excellent. When I get a quote back, I'll let you all know. I'll also be sure to post up the progress on my new sliders.

Why new sliders? Well, since I've put the flatbed and camper on my truck, my needs have changed. I need sliders that can accommodate some new items as well as integrate more cleanly into the look of the truck. Should be fun.

 

Any updates on your cut files? I sent this over to my buddy with a Cnc plasma just wanted to check before we got cutting.

 

I just sent off some files for my awning mount and totally forgot about the sliders! I've been swamped with other work/projects and the sliders have fallen off a bit. Thanks for the reminder!

 

Hahaha busy busy!! I was just going to cut the frame plates I acquired a prefabd set via tw. Are you keeping the same frame plate design?

 

Yeah, no reason to change it. It's been working for years!

 

My brackets with some slight modifications

 

I'd love to hear about the mods. I can see a few things in the photo but it doesn't explain why.

 

The answers pretty short, my high schools plasma cnc can only cut to 48” so I had to shorten the ~53”. I took out a ~6” section in between the 90 and 115 degree bends and separated them and adding a crossmember to weld the two together. I’ll include images of my plans to aid my terrible explanation.

Also while I’m here. What did you make those backing plates out of? I was honestly just thinking about cutting a hole in some of my extra 11 gauge steel and threading a grade 8 bolt through but I’d love to hear your method.

 

I figured you made tweaks based on either available material or machine size. Sounds like you have a solid plan. I used 2" x 2" x .1875 pieces of steel. Drilled a hole and welded a nut on the back. The two front mounts way inside the frame rail I connected to each other with an arm so they were way easier to install. I also did some extra work on the driver's side where a brake line bracket is. I think I outlined those mods early in this thread.

 

Here's my awning mount.

The piece on the left is my awning mount. 1/8" steel. Laser cut, two 90 degree bends the full length. 85" long. $80 including material. I've never had frame plates cut and bent at this shop. I switched to my new shop just after my first sliders were done. The thing I worry about with frame plates at my new shop is that they don't like any holes within 7/8" of the bend. It can scratch their tooling. I'll find out next year if they'll do it. If not, I'll have to cut the one hole on the bottom myself by hand.

I would offer to be a vendor and get a bunch of these cut but shipping would SUUUUCK as they are big and heavy. I just assumed they'd be cheaper for most people to source locally. I guess I'm spoiled here in the Portland area.

And before anyone says anything: Yes this should be aluminum and I may re do it next year in aluminum for weight savings. I have already cut a couple pounds of material off of this that wasn't really needed. The stuff you go through to prototype or one-off something.

 

FYI the bracket plans do not fit on a 2007 DCSB without slight modification on the underreaching part of the bracket and a hole to the right of the arrangement of circles on the drivers side, I fixed this is easily by cutting out sections for them respectively.

Also while im here, did you have any trouble removing the bolt for the cross member frame piece on the bottom?

 

Hmmm, I haven't heard of any issues with any model year truck in a while. Sounds like an easy fix for your truck so that's good.

I didn't have any issues removing that bolt on my truck but it was still pretty new at the time and this isn't a corrosion heavy area of the country. It was very tight as I recall though. A standard ratchet isn't the best choose of tool. A 1/2" drive breaker bar or impact driver would probably be a better choice.

 

I actually ended up just cutting out another notch where it goes after hitting it with a pneumatic torque wrench, breaker bar, and wisely decided against the acyteline torch lol. But im slowly making progress and learning a bunch along the way. I honestly think you've saved thousands of dollars in materials from being wasted with your files.