3D printers, what are you running? For fun or for money?

I have been using 3D printers for a few years now mostly just for fun. I have printed out many things that were useful and some that where were critical for what I was designing.

I guess this is two parts. What printers do you have access to and what software do you use to make the parts.

 

I will start with my hardware. I am old school with 3D printers. I started out with a Monoprice Mini Select years ago as my first 3D printer. It did what you would expect from a 3D printer at that time.

Later on I updated it to a Monoprice Select Mini Version 2. It had more features but still had a small build size.

Next I upgraded to a Monoprice Select Maker 3D Version 2 that allowed bigger builds. It has been working great so far.

Now I want more detail so I ordered a Elegoo Mars 2 Resin printer. The print size is smaller but the details should be much better.

What 3D printers do you have or have access to from work or from home?

 

OK, now software. That is where you separate the men from the boys.

It actually depends on how much time I want to spend on designing an object verses how accurate it needs to be.

For 99% of what I have ever designed Tinkercad will let you make anything you want. It is very easy to use and can make STL files all day long.

When you need to go big you need fusion360. It is much harder to learn but is way beyond anything tinkercad could hope of.

Luckily they are both from the same company so if you build an account from one you can use both.

 

I have the Ultimaker 2, upgraded the parts to the 2+.

For slicing, I use Cura since it's made by Ultimaker.

For my designing, I use Autodesk Inventor. Had a lot of experience with that back in the day when I was taking drafting courses.

I would like to get a resin printer but they require much more maintenance. The quality is amazing though and you can build much stronger parts that have better heat resistance. Maybe one day when I have more time on my hands I can get one.

 

I just finished curing the first prints from the resin printer. The details they make (hoses on R2D2 feet and swivel inside rook) are amazing.

 

I bought the STL files to print a 1/10 scale 5th gen 4Runner body for an RC vehicle but even my 200 x 200mm printer is too small for the prints.

I ended up picking up an Anet A8 Plus 300 x 300 x 350mm for super cheap on a black Friday deal at Amazon. I had already been searching for a larger printer and knew to get a couple of upgraded parts along with it to make it a great printer. Fiberglass reinforced belts, polymer linear bearings and a 3D touch auto bed leveling sensor. It is a put together yourself kit which I have done before and that saved me a lot of money.

I will use the resin printer for the finer detailed parts like the grill, headlights and mirrors.

 

Have a Prusa Mk3s, currently building a Railcore. Mostly for hobby now, but with the RC I'll probably see if I can make some money from it.

 

jumping into 3d printing as a newbie but I already did game design in 3dmax for many years so I have that. I made a model of a camera rain cover in tinkercad that i'm gong to refine and try out in PLA, them move it to ABS once i get the hang of it. Bought a A30 Pro that hasn't arrived yet. https://www.geeetech.com/geeetech-a30-pro-touch-screen-large-building-volume-3d-printer-p-1116.html

 

FDM - CR6-Max
SLA - Photon SE

Slicer- Cura (FDM) Chitubox (SLA)

3d modeling - blender, solvespace

 

Prusa MK3S+ that was originally a MK3

Want a SLA at some point. Mostly for fun and hobby, will occassionally print stuff for people for money, but I don't charge enough to make anything off it.

 

anyone 3d print a shifter knob? I'm thinking of trying it. looking for 12mm x 1.25 thread inserts.

 

think this would work as an insert?

$11 AMZ Clips And Fasteners (1) M12-1.25 Hex Coupling Nut, Steel Zinc. DIN 6334

https://www.amazon.com/M12-1-25-Coupling-Steel-Zinc-6334/dp/B07YQC45JL/

 

Sure, just print the knob then epoxy it inside.

 

initial design, Have to wait and measure the insert still and may turn that logo into a hole instead of raised.

 

Definitely! That would not be comfortable the way it is. Tinkercad has a hex object to it will be easy. I would make it .1mm over your measurement and go from there. You could make a simple 5mm tall block and combine the hole-hex to make a quick test print for fit before you make the whole thing. Save on some filament.

 

I bought a Creality CR-6 SE a couple weeks ago. I've been having fun with it.

 

my biggest mistakes so far have been ruining my build plates, I ran out and am waiting for some more. painters tape didnt work well even with adhesive.

 

Hairspray - when the bed is warm just before you print.

 

latest... got the nut today, 20mm wide should leave enough but i'll do a test once I get my build surface.

 

so for the final build, I should probably slice it in half and print 2 halves with screw holes, correct?