Ontario BS Thread

I could ask. I'll shoot him a text

 

He said that they aren't offering any group rates this year because they actually don't want to book large groups because of covid and all that. That being said, they will have online booking and will have cheaper time slots at off peak times so he recommends that would be the best deal

 

Thanks @BLKRCAT for the insight!
Much appreciated!

 

Anytime! Have a fun and safe time

 

Paying for something like that is ok as long as it can handle the loads a Prinsu does. Waste of time and money getting something like that and it starts falling apart. I don't regret getting my Prinsu, well worth the money.

I foam canon once in middle of summer and that's it. Who's got time to wash the truck, plus it's not a show truck so I really don't care if it rides dirty. Shiny trucks don't belong on trails, it blinds the other drivers

 

I just washed my truck

 

Man if the border was open I would love to get up to Ottawa and wheel with you and visit my kids been a year! New job then Covid, They are grown but still wish I could get up to visit. Hope you have fun be safe!

 

Me too!! Lol

 

Guilty as charged....

Well..... somebody look surprised....

nobody....

 

I don't see water washout testing in the report? It was the biggest reason I moved away from Fluid Film. The report also didn't have Fluid Film or any of the cosmoline-based products in the comparison. But by all means use whatever suits your usage the best. I just bought 6 more cans of CRC for next year after finding them at a good price at Canadian distributor Tenaquip:



They use similar stuff to coat the inside of unpressurized aircraft structures at my work, under specification F13 grade 4.

 

Oh yeah, well PRRRRRRBBBBBBBBTTTTTT!

I'm not gonna "gloss" over this;




Shiny trucks matter!!








Oh, was that a snowflake that just landed on the truck,
be right back,
gotta go get the clay bar and microfiber...

 

Air force uses ACF-50 for Aircraft...
As well as a bunch of other civilian planes and helicopters have it as one of their approved corrosion prevention systems.

It just won't stand up to direct heavy dirty water spray areas, for more than a couple months.

It does have better "creep" and lubricity and will actively neutralize any existing corrosion and galvanic reaction,
and also survives higher temps.
(So spraying it all over you engine bay is ok, just not the belts)

It's a great product to add to the "arsenal"

In some ways it is a better product but could never be the only product for automotive applications.

I tried a can of corrosionfree on the front of my rear diff and axles and it worked great compared to FF .

No red oxide at all, on the diff studs or bottom of the u-bolts etc after a winter.

The one thing I did notice was after I washed out the underside from playing in the mud n the springtime...
was it had a whitish haze in the areas I'd applied it. Barely noticeable .
I figure they add some zinc in their formula to also make it an active corrosion inhibitor.
The Zinc will act like a sacrificial anode.
Probably why it works better than some other barrier only products.

 

Hey guys, I am getting the Lexus a rust proof done next week. Where there is rust, do you guys suggest to use any kind of rust converter?

What do shops normally do when there is surface rust? Just apply crown/other over it?

 

If you have any surface scale rust or bubbling off old paint I'd give it a quick scrape with a putty knife or wire brush to remove any surface pockets for old road chemicals to hide in. Look for mud or crud buildup in the boxed in frame sections or sitting on the frame. Maybe give the underside a wash a few days before...

Krown and Rust check will basically spray it everywhere, some shops may clean off any major crud or scale but most don't.

Pr-cleaning and prepping does not make a huge difference anyways to the oil based undercoatings as they tend to soak/creap into everything anyways.

Afterwards if you spray off the underside of your truck in the winter don't use soap, just plain water.

 

I usually touch up rust spots and trail scars with Tremclad rust paint in semigloss black. Give the paint 24-48 hrs to fully dry before taking it in for rustproofing.

Shops normally spray over rust and dirt as if they didn't exist, because they charge a flat rate by the job.

 

If its the same stuff i had put on my truck i wouldn't get it again. That “one time application” is crap
It was explained to me as a “waxy oil.” And i did it to keep the warranty. When i got the truck back it was more like black tar. Now my warranty is up and i have to break cleaner myself off every time i work on the frame because soap doesn't cut it

anything thats on the frame when they apply it is there forever and when moisture does get behind it (and it will eventually) it localizes the effects more.

 

Maybe I can add something hear. An old school option. Around 2010 I got a 95 4 runner and sas'd it. had to cut everything off the frame. Low and behold the frame still had factory paint and looked brand new. I wish i took pictures. Any way It looked like someone painted the frame with grease. Literally. Someone had taken a brush and greased the frame. It's old school and I would guess labor intensive, very messy but very effective.... I have not done this to mine just every other year I get it crowned...

 

Yesterday I was told if I want to camp in the winter go to Baysville. Looking for some confirmation, anyone camp in the winter time up there?

 

This is an old post of mine and these rubber cased tractor work lights are still going strong I have replaced each bulb once

My 0ME greaseable shackles sure you don’t look like that now 8 years later!

 

just posting this here in case anyone is looking for a pelican case... or a new profession.