TRD OR Recovery Hook

Can some check this for me? I got a recovery hook from an OR to replace the tow loop from my Sport.
Is this how it's mounted?

 

You mounted it wrong, it goes the other way:

 

Thank you.

 

Is that just bolted to the cross member?

 

Yes, there are two existing bolt holes there for a Recovery hook on TRD OR models, and a lighter transport hook on the other models. You wan swap in a TRD OR hook, you just need the longer bolts that go with it.

 

Hmmm... I'd feel more comfortable with a tow point that is tied into the frame, not one that is bolted to a crossmember that holds up my axle. I'm assuming that is for towing on level ground and not to be used for heavy recovery.

 

I got bored today and painted mine red.

 

Does anyone know what that dumb sheet metal box is for ....... in the outer end of that forward cross member? I took mine out and used big pieces of 6061 aluminum bar to replace them. With shackle holes.

 

The metal box is just an end cap to keep debris out of the cross member.

 

The OR hook is a rated towpoint whereas the loop that is on other trucks is a tiedown point. That hook is a much better option for pulling out a stuck Tacoma.

 

Something interesting from the owners manual. It shows on sport and SR5 models to use the welded loop as the tow point, and on off-road models it says to use either/both.

 

This is a big aluminum bar fitted into the open end of the front crossmember. The 6016 aluminum is equal in strength to the typical mild steel parts we often use - and at 1 inch thick you could probably dangle a Tacoma off one side (I put one in both ends). It has a 7/8 hole for a 3/4 shackle and is drilled and tapped for the standard Toyota end bolt - plus another 1/2-13 Grade 8 flange screw drilled into the bar from below. The farther apart you can fit the screws the better - it takes one inch of thread grip to hold the high strength bolt..


If I had to build another set - I'd use 1-1/4 thick aluminum bar to fit the box opening a bit closer - and grip the shackle pin a bit more.

 

That looks like a good way to bend the cross member since it is outside the fore/aft frame rails.

 

Leverage is the same or less than the hook dangling under the crossmember - and it doesn't hang down in the rocks.

 

The two bolts holding the stock hook are offset but in line with the frame while yours are 90 degrees to the frame, wouldn't that increase the torque applied?

 

The stock hooks are simply attached to nuts in the sheet metal - made me laugh when I realized what the anchors were. Just as likely to "can opener" the attachment points as anything else.

 

Anyone know proper torque spec for the OR tow hook? Can’t find it anywhere

 

I couldn't find something designated for this specific location. They are flange head screws, M12-1.75 threads on the 2nd gen trucks so for those:
Grade 8.8 = 65 Ft-lbs
Grade 10.9 = 92 Ft-lbs
Grade 12.9 = 107 Ft-lbs
These values are from a chart that assumes "light oil" coating and using 75% of the proof strength. Torque would be reduced by 25% when using a product that specifically calls itself a "thread lubricant" - like a "neverseize" product(with moly / aluminum or colloidal copper filler). Anyway - those are the "magic" words to see on the labeling.

The 75% of proof strength design criteria is commonly used by mobile equipment manufacturers for fasteners that may be re-used.

These fasteners screw into nuts welded inside the frame - material capability unknown. Nuts are typically lower grade than the screws due to the inherent strength advantage of internal threads. They would also be subject to welding heat, so likely softer material than the screws. The point being - an educated engineers guess would be that the screws are Grade 10.9.

 

That works for me. Thanks!

 

I took mine off to paint it red too. I’m just curious if I need to apply any type of thread locker to the bolts. I’m sure it won’t do any harm, but can only make them stronger. I guess I’m mostly just making sure it’s not required or infringed upon...