Frozen and mangled oil filtter cap

Dang!

I had a few dealer visits that took a breaker bar on either the housing or plug it the real awesome one what required a bench vise to get the plug off.

Dealers are fucking clowns

 

Here's a link to the metal filter housing:

$21 Toyota Genuine Parts - Cap Assy, Oil Filter (15620-31060)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008BHP68A?ie=UTF8&psc=1&SubscriptionId=AKIAIIYFOKLBI535UV2A

I use this on my 2020 - works great, no issues.

 

I'm due for my tenth oil change this week. The only one that sucked was the very first, getting the factory installed housing loose required way more effort than it should have, but at least it wasn't so tight I had to destroy it to remove.

Still using OEM reinforced nylon housing, it's actually a pleasure to use if you don't go all neanderthal on it. I can't use the same old throw away filter technique of hand tighten and then another half turn or so because the threads and O-ring have a bit more resistance. But it is easy to tell when the threads bottom out, when they do it's tight enough. Don't turn it any more.

I think a lot of the dealership "mechanics" bottom it out then turn it another half turn, distorting the nylon threads and causing the often reported headaches. I'd be very concerned what the idiots do with an aluminum to aluminum thread interface.

 

I.M.O. Way, way more parts are broken by over tightened item's, lug nuts, spark plugs, oil filters and especially, plastic parts held on by metal bolts/screws...

 

i bought an aluminum one a while back and change the oil myself after having a dealer package for oil change and tire rotation and honestly questioned the last time whether they even rotated my tires...do it all myself now.

 

Jowett Performance make a great aluminum filter housing with a Fumoto valve too....

 

After having a heating oil company fail to change out the oil filters on my furnaces, I will be marking my tires and the filter so I can be sure the work is done. I called the heating oil company and the owner was questioning how I knew for sure his techs did not change the filters. He had nothing to say when I told him I write a date on them and they had the date of the last service still written on them with permanent marker.

 

Purchase the metal housing replacement and socket tool.

Also these housing can get tight not because of “over torquing” like everyone is saying, but due to friction with a dry O ring/seal

 

Another reason I'm glad I bought a rig with the 2.7 ... (Spin-on filter..)
Isn't this the 21st Century?
I'm actually shocked that Toyota is using 1950's technology 'cartridge' oil filters.
My son's 18' Forester actually has the oil filter (Lines running to it) right on top of the engine. It's probably THE easiest thing to get to under the hood. More easy than an air filter.
I have zero idea why Toyota would make changing an oil filter such a PITA, with the chance of things going terribly wrong ...
Step yer game up Toyota!!

 

Admittedly the nylon housing does tend to stick in usage, making it harder to loosen than it was initially installed. I've found the best practice is to slowly tighten until it just gently stops - done, no extra force, not extra turn, no torque wrench. I have maybe 50 changes on a factory nylon housing from my daily RAV4 with no issues.

Also use the MotivX tool, it grips more material than most any so there is less chance of rounding or breakage.

 

[QUOTE="Zoop, post: 24703404, member

I just stick the extension in there and take it off as one piece like a regular filter.

 

Its actually easier and cleaner to do than the "old" spin ons but or some reason people struggle with it.. Location is determined by how the engine is engineered. Ford put the oil filter low and inside the bumper on their 5.4. It was a huge pain to change and not only that, a minor fender bender would puncture it and render your vehicle undriveable.

The Boxer engine you mention is unique to it's oil filter location. Though I agree I wish they made it easier.

It would be worse, it could be like the Ferrari 355 that requires a complete engine out every 20k or whatever to replace the timing belts

 

Youre calling BS? Really, based on what? The Toyota cartridge has a built in drain funnel that empties the filter for crying out loud, did your 55 Desoto come with that? All oil drains nicely into a pan.

Now lets look at my AMC 258, as soon as the seal is broken the oil likes to splash out the sides while I'm unscrewing it from pressure then as I pull the filter off and it drains it loves to just drool oil down the side of the engine block.

Changing the oil on the Toyota has been the easiest and cleanliest oil change I have ever done to a vehicle, even our Subaru requires some cleanup from the filter draining.

 

I purchased the MotivX tool and drain gizmo right after taking delivery on my truck. After reading this thread I may purchase the aluminum housing for a just in case back up. My sons new (to him) car uses the same cartridge style filter.

 

I have said it before and i will say it again THE STEALERSHIP TECHS DON'T KNOW S__T!!

 

Yep, that drain tool is great. That plastic tool the OEM filters come with is awful in comparison. Some aftermarket filters come with a screw in plastic tool, those are decent.

 

And I kind of like being able to inspect the filter with this type set up. On the first oil change there were just a couple small metal particles visible. Following oil changes revealed nothing.

 

Is there a Tacoma specific magnetic drain plug?

 

its really hard to trust people anymore, i wonder how people do things or not do things and don't have their conscience convicted?