Power sliding window mod info thread

If you end up with extra parts welcome to the club. It’s pretty much a given with diy when you don’t know the subject inside out.

 

can you post a pic of switch both front and back. doing this mod also,,,I am using a switch from a 2003 sequoia , tundra #192586, $24.00 on ebay..I also went with a rear window regulator from a 2013 dodge ram #68157026AD, $38.00 on ebay. After i trim plastic bracket on window regulator, it will fit and mount in left side rear corner of my DBL cab tacoma also the cable's are long enough so they only need to be cut to length. Using kgarrett11 bracket $49.00 from kgarrett11, for the window slide and some bike tensioner's. $16.00 on Amazon...then wiring it up , wire and add a fuse and 2 relays 5 pin and your good. After talking to a few who did the mod, seems best place to start is with any window regulator that has long enough cable's that you don't have to extend only cut or maybe not even have too and small enough to mount somewhere where you don"t have trim or cut both truck sheet metal and rear panels.....Which is not that hard to do just a extra step....

 

A spdt switch is all you need.
Is that 3rd gen tundra switch the one that's posted earlier?
Got a meter? 5 pins should be easy to figure out with an ohm meter. 3 for the switch, 2 for the light inside.
If the plug end of the switch looks the same as in the pictures, you're probably good to go. I'd still ring out the switch to make sure though.

 

Sorry, Can’t post pics atm. I just opened up a sienna switch (6-pins, dpdt) and it does the crossover mechanically inside the switch so there are two in, two out, and two led. The led is in a brown plug on the side. Usually the two pins closest to the middle of the switch are the two inputs (power/ground). Can you post pics of your switch?

 

Here’s a link to post 169 of one of this thread. It’s a pic/schematic of the 3rd gen switch with pin outs. Power sliding window mod info thread
Looks like the switch grounds one of two wires so it’s probably an spdt switch. It should still work on the positive side supplying 12v to those wires. If not then run 12v to the coil side of each relay and connect to the switch to complete the circuit.

 

Only 3 pins so it pretty much has to be an spdt. Offhand I’d say the middle pin is the center contact and the two outer are up/down. That or the single pin is center and the two together are up down. You can verify with a meter or take it apart and look at the mechanics inside. They just snap together. In lieu of a meter use a flashlight battery and bulb to figure it out. The center pin will connect with each of the other two but they won’t connect with each other.

 

earlier post #222 said it was from a 2003 sequoia/tundra switch....

 

Well fuck me. Fifm.

 

I used a 20amp DPDT switch with no relays and it's been working flawlessly for over a year. The power is ran from a fused, switched power from the fuse panel.
With a 10amp fuse, if theres any issue, it will pop the fuse. I haven't popped one yet.
No reason to over complicate or re engineer anything. Just my .02

 

Hello All, new to the board and just purchased a 2020 Tacoma Off-Road Access cab. The one thing my truck didn't come with that I really want is a sliding rear window and I'm thinking about putting one in. I'm looking at a number of web sites and what I can't determine is whether I'll need a whole new rear window or can I replace the middle, manual sliding glass with the power middle glass equivalent; Part Number: 6480704040?

I've put together the following parts list and was wondering if you all thought this was complete? Trying to get an idea what it would cost before jumping in. I'm assuming and correct me if I'm wrong, the OEM sliding rear window, motor, cables, etc, would work in an Access Cab as well?

1. Back Glass Part Number: 6481004130. (appears to be window frame or whole window)
2. Back Glass Part Number: 6480704040 (just the middle sliding window)
3. MOTOR ASSEMBLY, POWER WINDOW REGULATOR Part Number: 857100C110 For Your: Toyota
4. CABLE SUB-ASSEMBLY, DOOR WINDOW REGULATOR Part Number: 6908804010 For Your: Toyota
5. Power Sliding Window Motor Bracket Part Number: 698110C020 For Your: Toyota Tacoma
6. SWITCH ASSEMBLY Part Number: 848100C090 For Your: Toyota
7. (2) - STOP, BACK WINDOW SLIDE GLASS Part Number: 6480504010
8. NUT, WITH WASHER Part Number: 90182A0026
9. BOLT, FLANGE Part Number: 90105A0014
10. NUT, FLANGE Part Number: 90178A0025
11. SCREW, HEX LOBULAR Part Number: 9008014057
12. HOUSING, CONNECTOR F Part Number: 9098012550

 

@rjdressen This is from earlier in this thread. Lots of good information here, I did a bunch of searching/reading across multiple threads and this one seemed to be the most complete as far as having all the necessary information.

I have a 2nd gen and haven't seen enough of a 3rd gen interior to know for sure, but I can't think of a reason why you'd need to replace the entire rear glass assembly. I used the OEM 3rd gen switch with a rear power sliding window regulator assembly from a 2009? F-150 and it cost me $120 with the switch, connector, and wiring and probably took me a half-day to troubleshoot/install.

A retrofit with 100% OEM parts is possible, but it was extremely cost-prohibitive for me. There are a handful of users who have estimated the cost to be ~$1000+. I'm sure you could find everything you need from a parts yard, but I imagine they'll still want good money for everything you'd need. It's way cheaper and likely not much more work to source a regulator, whichever switch you choose, a handful of other parts and DIY compared to the amount of time you'd need to keep everything OEM.

 

I picked up a double cab powered rear window and switch from a junkyard. The window is glued in so I had a body shop swap them.
Here's a link to my build: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ing-back-window-install.591577/#post-19782654

 

Did an Amazon search for cable noodle and found a bunch. Some rigid, some flexible.
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Cable+noodle&ref=nb_sb_noss_2

 

If you currently or plan to have air on board which I do another way to go about this is to use a double acting cylinder and double coil/2- position/5-way valve (sounds complicated but isn’t) along with some bicycle cable and housing. The cylinder has a piston and the valve allows air to be added and/or released from either end. Instead of a motor winding the cable one way or another the piston is connected to both cable ends and pulls the window open/closed. I think the cylinder is better able to fit behind the rear panel since it’s only 3/4” OD and can be mounted to either rear wall cross beam to allow the piston to line up nicely with the cables. The valve operates with a spdt switch(on-off-on)rather than a dpdt switch(polarity reversing switch) and current is very low so no relays or high current wires are needed(less than 1/2A). Momentary contact fully opens or closes window. The switch can be installed either with or without the included holder(I installed mine in the armrest without holder and will have another in the bed switch panel.
Cylinder

$31 uxcell Pneumatic Air Cylinder MAL20 X 30020mm Bore 300mm Stoke M8,Single Rod Double Action

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VBVNC92/ref=sspa_dk_detail_5psc=1&smid=A1THAZDOWP300U&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExMEZGOVBVR0Q2SVVUJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDM5NjkxMk5QMVVHM0RBNTZUNSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNTE3ODUyM1MyTTlXMUZaWFUySSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbDImYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl
Valve

$20 TAILONZ PNEUMATIC Solenoid Valve 4V220-08 DC12V 1/4"NPT Double Coil Pilot-Operated Electric 2 Position 5 Way Connection Type Black

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B087892J2...olid=2VF3WCXRRGOW6&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
Switch

$9 AUTUT 2 Pcs 6 Pins Universal Fit Car Power Window Switch

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LC7DRJV?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_asin_title


Since the cylinder/valve combo is less costly than a window motor it’s a viable option if you have AOB or carry pressurized gas(HP air or CO2) you can tap for supply.

 

Interesting idea with the pneumatic, looks like it would be an easier fit.

I just did this mod and posted about it on a different thread. Used a impala motor which cost around $30, the sienna switch which cost around $30 were the most expensive things. All the parts including the bracket from Kgarrett only cost around $150, which as much as I could justify on a sliding window.

The space is very tight. By cutting off one tab on the impala bracket I was able to use the hardware and get it mounted in the space.

Here's a link with some pics of what I did, as well as links to parts that weren't very easy to find.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/power-sliding-rear-window-install.589615/page-7#post-24797426

 

Does anyone know the part number of a backlit Tacoma or Tundra sliding rear window switch?



I used this number to order one off of eBay but ended up with this guy, which doesn’t have that part number anywhere on it and although they look identical it doesn’t have a led to illuminate the switch itself. Just one for the activation window.

 

I found the part # for the updated switch with a blue backlit for all the OCD mofo’s out there. The first one posted in this thread doesn’t have it and from my reading neither do early model Tacoma’s, but I’ve been in a 2020 and it does so I knew it existed. Now it makes me wonder if there’s an updated inverter switch.

 

All you need is a DPDT (dual pole dual throw)
$3.99 at any auto parts supplier. I've had my setup for a couple yrs with not one issue.
Just my .02