Proper way to tighten LCA

Getting some clunk gremlins and looking to get some proper insight as LCA’s appear to be a common occurrence with the sound I am hearing.

However upon searching TW I have noticed conflicting reports. Some folks say to tighten at the nut side while others say to tighten from the cambolt side of the eccentric (all while holding the opposite side with a box end). Others say it doesn’t matter at all.

Could anyone shed some light on how to properly check torque values without fear of myself causing misalignment.

 

@Ted Yoder

 

It doesn’t matter, just tighten it to spec. Having clean threads is probably much more important than which side you tighten.

 

So I can put the torque wrench on the nut OR cambolt side while holding the opposite side with a box end and not get any alignment issues that may or may not already have been present?

 

The front and back are different.
One uses the bolt head to adjust, the other uses the nut.


How to
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-torque-cam-bolts.614551/#post-20860059

Pictures
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/cam-bolt-question-now-with-answers-and-writeup.502084/

 

Thank you for the link I read that entire post before starting my thread and still having issues with reading comprehension.

So based on the OP’s picture, he torques the cambolt on the front driver LCA. So this means the nut needs torqued on the rear driver LCA?

 

You and I both read it the same. That is Correct.


You’ll also notice in the first link.
There is practically no room to get a TQ wrench on the rear “nut” of the FRONT.
Unless you use a crows foot adapter.

Anyways, you are correct.

 

I do not have a crows foot adapter so I may have to look into getting one. I do appreciate the help I’ve been chasing this noise for a year now so I’m hopeful in finding a remedy. Nothing ventured nothing gained.

Is the passengers side going to be mirrored? I.e. front passenger cambolt gets the torque value and the rear passenger LCA is torqued at the nut?

 

You don’t need them in this case.

They do work well for things like the hub bolts.
Where a wrench won’t fit.

 

Yes, mirrored.
Same for both sides.

 

Notice the guide shows which ones to TQ
(Mine still come loose @ 100 ft/lbs)

 

Is this drive or passenger side? Still trying to wrap my head around as I really have no alignment experience. Yours still loosen at 100ft/lbs? Do you over torque or routinely tighten to solve this? Locktite w/ anti-seize? I’m on an all stock suspension less than 45k on the clock and in the rust belt.

 

It is the same for both sides. (It doesn’t matter what side)

Yes, mine continuously get loose at 100 ft/lbs.

I’m pretty sure I’ve over TQ’d them at some point.
I weigh just over 150 lbs. I grab 2 wrenches and crank them down.
I don’t go crazy on them for fear of stripping them.
Mine are still OEM Original bolts. And they have a history of seizing up and being really hard to get out.

I also have Lifetime Alignment, so I don’t really worry about “messing up the alignment”.
I do try to hold the adjustment side still, that way it doesn’t mess with the alignment.
But I don’t worry about too much.
By the time mine come loose, I am usually due for an alignment. (7500 or so)
I contribute some of the reason they come loose to the alignment guys.
They TQ to spec. And I can’t get them to crank them down more.
They won’t for liability reasons as it is a suspension part.

But anyways, even when I TQ’d them myself to 100. They still came loose.
Even faster when I drive off-road and rough terrain.

 

Awesome. I thank you greatly for the wealth
of information you provided.

I don’t think I’ve ever had an alignment done which is something I should probably look into it but tire wear and tracking are all normal. I’m going to give it a whirl on Saturday where I can work on it out of the elements.

 

I think you’ll be fine.
No need to over think it.

 

I have that tendency

Have a blessed 2021​

 

You too my friend.