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Cam bolt question (now with answers and writeup)

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by Plain Jane Taco, Jul 21, 2017.

  1. Jul 21, 2017 at 8:03 PM
    #1
    Plain Jane Taco

    Plain Jane Taco [OP] You'll shoot your eye out kid

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    Been poking around the suspension forum for a bit. I'm thinking about lubing my cam bolts to prevent seizure.

    Are people lubing just the bolt or are they pulling out the sleeve and lubing that as well?

    Thought for sure there would a write up or 2 about doing this. Yes? No?

    Could someone be kind enough to point me in the right direction?
     
    Last edited: Jul 22, 2017
  2. Jul 22, 2017 at 2:17 PM
    #2
    Plain Jane Taco

    Plain Jane Taco [OP] You'll shoot your eye out kid

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    Ok. I took matters into my own hands. Poked around on YT and an FJ forum and found just enough info to tackle this myself.

    For those who may not know...our front alignment is done by adjusting cam bolts on the LCA's mounting points on the frame. These adjusters are notorious for seizing. Either the bolt seizes inside the sleeve and/or (in the case of the front adjusters) the the sleeve seizes inside the LCA bushing. This makes adjusting the alignment difficult or even impossible. It's quite a mess to fix them at that point. Cutting them out is usually required. But a little preventive maintenance can keep seizures from happening.

    Here's a brief writeup....not overly detailed. Just hitting the important stuff. Please don't do stupid shit that can hurt you. I'm not liable for your crushed skull.

    *EDIT: It was suggested that I inform folks not to lube the backsides of the cams. The reduced friction could potentially allow the cams to move even when tightened to the recommended 100 ft lbs of torque.

    I DID NOT lube those surfaces but was not clear about that. Thanks @5678ta

    If you have a skid plate, remove it 1st. This will give you access to the front adjusters. 4 12mm bolts hold the plate. Remove the front bolts first as there are hooks to hold the plate on while you remove the rear bolts. Jack up one corner and secure it with a jack stand. Remove the wheel.


    20170722_141623.jpg

    Mark your alignment. I used some white touch up paint. You have 4 alignment cams on each side, 2 in front, 2 in rear. Mark each one before disassembly.

    20170722_142049.jpg

    Start with the front adjuster. Remove the bolt. Then pull out the sleeve. It helps to have a floor jack to take the pressure off the sleeve. A lite tap with a socket extention and a hammer was all it took on mine.

    NOTE: The jack you see under the LCA in the picture below is there just to help tweak the LCA up a bit to help with the removal/reinstall of the sleeve. It is NOT supporting the weight of the vehicle.

    20170722_142833.jpg

    Bolt and sleeve. My rig is just over 2 years old and been through 2 winters. Their was definite corrosion on the sleeve from the LCA bushing insert.

    20170722_142918.jpg

    I cleaned up the sleeve with some fine sand paper. Then applied a generous amount of antiseize/lubricant to the bolt, sleeve and inside the bushing insert.

    20170722_134016.jpg

    20170722_143457.jpg

    20170722_143543.jpg

    Reassemble the the parts. Lightly snug down the bolt then use a wrench to tweak the cams to your marks.

    20170722_144014.jpg

    The rears are a different design and require the removal of a nut that faces the rear of the truck. Even though it's different, it'll make perfect sense to you if you've already done the fronts. Rear bolt cleaned up and lathered in antiseize. I also added antiseize to the bushing inserts, just as I did to the front.

    20170722_144555.jpg

    Reinstall the rear bolt and cam. Just like the front, snug it up then use a wrench to return the cams to your marks.

    When you've completed both the front and rear adjusters torque them to 100 ft lbs (factory spec). I used the floor jack to jack up the LCA to add weight to the LCA before torquing it. This simulates the truck being on the ground. I'll check and retorque these in a couple of weeks.

    Reinstall wheel and set your rig on the ground. Be sure to torque your lugs to 83 ft lbs.

    Repeat on the other side. Total time for me was just over an hour

    20170722_145258.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jul 26, 2019
  3. Jul 23, 2017 at 6:22 AM
    #3
    Monkeybutt2000

    Monkeybutt2000 Well-Known Member

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    Nice write up.
     
  4. Jul 23, 2017 at 6:39 AM
    #4
    Plain Jane Taco

    Plain Jane Taco [OP] You'll shoot your eye out kid

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    Thanks. First time messing with these. So it was kind of a learn as you go type thing
     
  5. Jul 23, 2017 at 6:40 PM
    #5
    3coma

    3coma my kid says my truck is "Boss"

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    Looks like you jacked it up from right below the cam. Did anything shift making reinstalling the bolt harder?
     
  6. Jul 24, 2017 at 12:30 AM
    #6
    Plain Jane Taco

    Plain Jane Taco [OP] You'll shoot your eye out kid

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    No. It's on Jack stands further back on the frame. The floor jack was just used to tweak the LCA up or down to help slide the cam sleeve in.

    20170722_144014.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jul 24, 2017
    ready6delta and Norton like this.
  7. Jul 24, 2017 at 1:27 AM
    #7
    Plain Jane Taco

    Plain Jane Taco [OP] You'll shoot your eye out kid

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    In the last picture the jack was just sitting under the truck....not being used. I just hadn't pulled it out yet

    20170722_145258.jpg
     
    3coma likes this.
  8. Aug 8, 2017 at 3:53 AM
    #8
    bigfoote13

    bigfoote13 Well-Known Member

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    Man you were halfway to lifting the front!!!!
     
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  9. Aug 8, 2017 at 4:27 AM
    #9
    Plain Jane Taco

    Plain Jane Taco [OP] You'll shoot your eye out kid

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    Nope :alien:
     
  10. Aug 8, 2017 at 5:26 AM
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    bigfoote13

    bigfoote13 Well-Known Member

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  11. Aug 8, 2017 at 7:38 AM
    #11
    Plain Jane Taco

    Plain Jane Taco [OP] You'll shoot your eye out kid

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    It was lifted off the ground here. That's as close as it gets

    20170722_144014.jpg
     
    dk_crew and gearcruncher like this.
  12. Aug 13, 2017 at 3:18 PM
    #12
    davids540i

    davids540i Well-Known Member

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    Nice write-up! Just replaced my lower control arms and this helped give me an idea on what to expect with the cam bolts
     
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  13. Aug 15, 2017 at 1:52 PM
    #13
    FinnJ

    FinnJ Well-Known Member

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    Why you think? Lube every nut and bolt you have taken out. That's what I am doing. So much easier to remove next time. And use some thick stuff, not just WD40 or motor oil.
     
  14. Aug 21, 2017 at 1:42 AM
    #14
    5678ta

    5678ta Well-Known Member

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    Feel like you should note to NOT lube up the front and rear mating surfaces where the cam plate meets the cam tab area. The friction created from proper torque ensures it will not move if you hit a bump/curb or slam on your brakes. I've had these move on me before and its not cool when your alignment goes out of whack.
     
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  15. Sep 8, 2017 at 5:53 PM
    #15
    Plain Jane Taco

    Plain Jane Taco [OP] You'll shoot your eye out kid

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    Yeah....I didn't lube those surfaces. Just checked and retorqued these this weekend. Torque was good and the cams have not moved.

    I'll edit the post. :thumbsup:
     
  16. Oct 5, 2017 at 2:30 PM
    #16
    Zacowacko

    Zacowacko Well-Known Member

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    So say you had a tard shop bend you frame tabs, as below. I took it to a better shop and they got it aligned and bent tabs back up.

    Anyway, if i remove the cam bolts, will the A-frame drop out of the way enough to keep me from roasting the bushings. If i want to run a weld on the back of my tabs to reinforce them?

    Cam.jpg
     
  17. Nov 25, 2017 at 10:08 AM
    #17
    Plain Jane Taco

    Plain Jane Taco [OP] You'll shoot your eye out kid

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    Sorry for the late response. I don't always get notifications. Odds are you've already figured this one out.

    But I would think if you remove the front and rear adjuster bolts you could wiggle the LCA out enough to weld
     
  18. Nov 25, 2017 at 12:50 PM
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    Sub_Par

    Sub_Par Well-Known Member

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    You should always torque the cam bolts with the truck on the ground. You want the weight of the truck on the wheels so nothing is tweaked when torquing those bolts.
     
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  19. Feb 21, 2018 at 6:27 AM
    #19
    mbrogz3000

    mbrogz3000 Well-Known Member

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    Sub'd (great info, lots of us are going to need ref this also)
     
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  20. Feb 21, 2018 at 7:48 AM
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    Zacowacko

    Zacowacko Well-Known Member

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    Nah. Havent touched them yet, since its aligned. My cousin thinks he can put a couple tacks on the back with his tig (i believe is what he said) without it gettin too hot. I'm probably going to pull the bolts anyway to grease, when i install the TRD Pro setup i just bought. Will see what we can do then. Also have to build up the back brackets for my bags, so figure we'd just do all the welding then.
     
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