What Have You Done To Your 2nd Gen Tacoma Today?

So yes, I have felt that after coming off a higher speed or harder acceleration, to a stop. A second or two and then it lurches forward like I took my foot off the brakes, even though I definitely did not. So now the bigger question is: is there an easy bolt on solution for this at this time? I've already swapped the leaf springs, but I don't want it to keep happening if it's tearing up the drive train.

 

I’ve been running the cowl induction snorkle mod for a while now. I don’t love the look of a snorkle and always knew I was gonna trim the fenders up front. Though I did finally pull that liner yesterday and need to cover the hole left by the intake being moved.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/cowl-induction-snorkel.525314/page-8#post-24735963

 

what did you plug the fender holes with?

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...the-fenders-after-removing-the-flares.304366/

 

Upgraded from 265/70’s to 285/70’s

 

So I guess traction bars are more universal so finding a Tacoma-specific solution isn't a big deal.

https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/pro-comp-lateral-traction-bars-black-72500b/_/R-DFCW-72500B

The reviews mention bigger lifts than I have. I only have a suspension lift based on 5100s and OME 884s/General Springs HDs - so 2.5-3", front to back. I definitely feel the effects of axle wrap, though, so I guess I should look into them all the same.

I do like this one though: https://www.urdusa.com/urd-xrunner-traction-bar/

 

Sanded and painted the clips that were used to hold the fender flairs on originally!



https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...the-fenders-after-removing-the-flares.304366/

 

Any rub?

 

So URD says they can have a bar made for a 4x4 truck (since the previous linked was only for an xrunner) - I'm wondering though, it's the "best" I've found so far - the pro comps hang low and mess the clearance up pretty badly - anyone have any inputs?

 

I think my youngest stepson has a Go Pro, I haven't seen him use it in quite a while so I'll have to ask him tonight about it.

In order for axle wrap to happen the axle has to be able to twist the leaf springs ~ the axle has to twist in a circular manner and with two solid points (one low and one high) on the axle it simply can not twist and is now forced to move up and down in a large arc instead of straight up and down as the suspension does its job, with fairly flat leaf springs (when loaded) it's an easy feat. The amount of arc that the rear axle is forced to move in is determined by the front traction bar's mounting point/length of traction bar.

(1) Bullseye, that's axle wrap. (2) The BudBuilt bar is the only Tacoma specific bar I've seen that its design guarantees zero axle wrap IMO.

With the Tacomas flat leaf springs (when loaded) this type of bar

will limit axle wrap but it will definitely not stop all of it. With its single mounting point at the axle it will still wrap up but the amount of wrap will be lessened by half.

This type of bar (URD)

has no pivot point at the forward end of the bar and has a single pivot at the rear of the bar. Once again axle wrap will be reduced by half. This bar is designed for a X-Runner, a low profile 2WD street truck, and that type of truck has a rear suspension that has very little amount of travel and the axle is required to articulate very little at any given time.


The biggest difference between "my design" and BudBuilt's is the front mounting system. The BudBuilt uses heim joints to allow for axle articulation. Heim joints are solid with zero give, I chose to use rubber bushings because any solid pivot point will transfer vibrations. The front mounting point of my traction bar swivels 360*, not that 360* would ever be used, but this feature of my design completely stops the traction bar from limiting the axles amount of articulation.


The basis for this swivel action is this 3/4" grade 8 bolt and nut which aren't completely tightened (I tightened the bolt and backed it off about 1/5 of a complete turn). The nut is shoved as far down into the crossmember as far as possible which keeps the nut from backing off of its bolt. There is also a 0.375" plate on the inside of the crossmember to add structural rigidity to the crossmember and to beef up that pivot point. I'm going to be adding more strength to that crossmember soon.

 

That explanation is absolutely fantastic, thank you.

 

Where can I get TRD SEMA Pro/4Runner wheels for my 2015 Tacoma?

 

Couldn't you solve the problem by upgrading your leaf springs? I dont know much about axle wrap. Luckily I dont have it.

 

The dealer. Craigslist. Facebook marketplace. The internet. So many places.

 

Amazon has them too. I always add them to my cart to check if they'll ship to Hawaii. Even if they do, for free or low cost, I end up removing them. Cycle repeats.

 

Installed the upgraded headlight harness from Headlight Services today. I left in the Sylvania Silverstar bulbs for now to see if there is an improvement with just the harness. I also redid the Unifilter mod and removed the Pedal Commander (Which will be for sale). I plan on cleaning up the wiring when I get new battery terminals.
I also wanted to point out how good the quality of this harness is. I was immediately impressed by the gauge of wire, the solid connections, and the fittings and plugs. I'm not sure how it compares to other harnesses out there, but the one made by Headlight Services is very nice!

 

Thanks.

 

That would depend on the replacement spring but it's damn near impossible with a leaf spring that is flat when loaded. I suspect most aftermarket "upgrade" style leaf springs stop most of the axle wrap that a stock Tacoma leaf spring has.

 

Covered my resi clamps with blue heatshrink tubing. Thanks to @outxider for the awesome idea!

 

Very nice and much cleaner.