TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

I'd you do the non-SIA long tubes then yes. There's a few guys who've done it.

 

I thought it said 05 and above so figured mine (SAI) would still have to do this.

 

I did the studs with DT long tubes. There were 2 I couldn’t remove so just left them stock. When installing I did the double nut technique. Mines is a 2007 and didn’t have to chase the threads but they are tight when installing. Maybe put them in freezer before install. Been 7 years no leaks

 

The top studs are longer on the SIA headers. If you install SIA long tubes you could re-use the stock studs although I would recommend replacing them anyways cause they'll probably look pretty ragged. Not sure what ARP studs would be used for replacement in this case.

If your going non-SIA the ARP studs I quoted earlier will work for 05-15 but you'll want to chase the threads.

 

Gotcha. I got SAI URD long tubes.....I gotta find what arp studs work

 

Disregard. Turns out I really want the plasma and welding table more so I’m gonna try to extract the broken stud and just fix that.

 

Is this what you were saying...
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/arp-head-header-studs.223129/page-4#post-17166047

 

It was. I know the stock studs were longer on top than the bottom ones when I removed my stock SIA headers. With aftermarket headers they may or may not use longer top studs.

 

you'll want to get one of these.

$35 ARP 912-0001 Thread Cleaning Chaser, M8 x 1.25"

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B005JIQHKK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

When I broke one I just drilled it out and put in a regular bolts and nut. tried to extract that bastard wasn’t coming out.

 

Update: Trucks back home

When loading it up in neutral onto the tow truck the rear wouldn’t move that thing is fu!¥ked! Almost positive that’s it.

 

@nudavinci64 I'm not well versed enough with 3rd members/rear ends especially with the variations between the Gen2 and Gen2.5 and OR and Sport models......

But I am very curious about what could have caused your rear diff to seize up. I would think the "spicy" trans tune is purely electronic and changed values that would affect only the AT. Even if it caused the AT to shift extremely hard or slip while shifting.... I'm trying to understand how impact to the AT would transfer down the driveshaft to the rear diff and cause all those gears to seize/bind.

So looking at the rear end individually..... do you have an aftermarket rear locker? Did it happen to just give up the ghost coincidentally right after the HP Tuner spicy trans tune?

I'm empathetic to your situation and glad that you got it towed home safely. Cayucos to San Mateo isn't a walk in the park with all the traffic between the South Bay and Pismo.

Looking forward to your forensic work on this blown rear differential. If you're in a bind and need a hand, I can cruise by. Please keep us posted.

 

Thanks, today was just one of those C'Mon its not 2020 anymore. Whatever this is (lets call it blown rear), AAA tow just outside of the free 200-mile range which generated extra cost, Then we almost ended up getting another tow when a meta bar of some sort flew up out of the road and hit my brother's car. Not to mention the headlights turned off randomly going down a hill on 101 (luckily came back) but WTF really. Let me add a photo



Honestly, as @JustDSM noted it the same one several guys are running and it drives out of the house and up just fine. I think it is a lot of confidence all wrapped up into one. My other brother who has the shop kept saying check the transmission since work was just done but it gave no indicator on the 300-400 miles prior it was having issues besides the harder shifts.

When I pulled out to get onto the road I gave it some gas and well you know some SPICY gas on the pedal and the rear did slip and chirp some tires. Running big 35's, the heavy truck I think the rear just said F that it kind of chugged it's away over to the side, and with some very slight movements to get it more off the road the rear just started to get worse. Likely if it is the gears that broke eventually got jammed into a fat mess. When we pulled it on the truck the rear was not having it and would just buckle or get stuck as something was jamming it from moving. when we lowered it off it had a minor ping but we were able to roll it off likely the reverse was more open than forward. Tring to put it into any gear started to bind real bad in the rear and could have messed up the trans so did not try to go anyfurther. The main thing was to be able to get it on the flat bed and out of the road.

Really bad timing as I just go the email that my Super Pacific X1 will be ready sometime in February so I have out a month to figure this out and possibly fix it.

 

Starting to make more sense.. i do recall hearing about broken diffs back when I lived life a 1/4 mile at a time. High HP + globs of tractions + minimal flex + wheelie bars = sumthin' probably gonna break. Usually axles, diffs or transmissions or whatever was the weakest link....

Busted diffs usually meant internal gears with some teeth sheared off. Those metal chunks would definitely constrict movement of those gears.

My hypothesis... your truck has 300tq+ with the blower. Spicy tune making shifts firm/harsh/grab instantly (gear slamming on a MT). The added weight over your rear axle = major traction aid to the (not sticky) 35s but which has plenty of sidewall to flex.

The stress/twist from that torque and shock caused the weakest link to fail. In this case, differential gears?

Sherlock Holmes hat off......

(I like post mortems and failure analysis!)

 

Oh shoot. I didn't realize he had 35s. Yep. His rear end is officially junk.

 

yah that's why I was leaning that way. I could not see how it was the trans although that was what recently had all of the new add ons and changes. Only got to experience the spicy tune for a mere 3 minutes. it was a spicy tune that's for sure hahahaha sigh....

 

Yeah big horsepower + big heavy wheels and tires always equal a recipe for disaster for your bearings, trannies, rear ends and pretty much anything that is a rotational mass which handles or drives your wheels/ tires.

Dang that sucks Robert. Time to step it down though. Lol.

 

ha yah I think the part that bugs me the most is it wasn't even doing anything fun. Just packed up and heading home. The world is telling me I need a bigger rear end/axle but F that is not in the plans. hopefully ECGS will come to the rescue. This Rear-end maybe has seen 6k miles if that.

 

I am concerned about my rear end after I toss in more power myself. What are our options for rear end strength? Level 10 has my trans covered but I'm reluctant to just jump up to a dana 66 mostly because I love all the traction buttons my TX Pro affords me.

 

4.56 Nitro gears in mine with lots of abuse locked and unlocked.