TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

In Toyota we trust. (Most times, sometimes they let us modders down)

 

Looks like I will go with that for now. I needed to replace one anyway. thanks @12TRDTacoma Pricy little guys.

 

My dad has a 3rd gen which Ive driven several times and yeah....when getting on the highway to match highway speeds, the RPMs are easily 1000 more than what my 2nd gen needs to be to accelerate as such (pre SC that is)

 

Yeah I hear you have to wind up the crap out of those 3rd gens just to get them moving. They must really suck towing.

They went from "Toyota, let's go places" with the 2nd gens to "Toyota, let's go nowhere" with the 3rd gens.

 

Mishi spring loaded clamps
https://www.ebay.com/itm/223894879744

 

You guys are really trying to re-invent the wheel here aren't you. Lol.

 

For my experience, I will say, extremely rarely has an un-modified Toyota piece let me down...

In memory, the only thing Toyota that broke (that wasn't because it was directly affected by a modification I made) was the transmission. I was pretty sad about that, let me tell you. Expensive lessons learned - change your transmission fluid often, and make sure the clutch is set correctly - In hindsight, for some reason, the clutch engagement was set wrong from the factory which sped up its degradation.

 

lol
2nd gen tacomas "Toyota, Lets go places"
3rd gen tacomas "Toyota, Let's go home"

 

Just another option. Nothing wrong with that I hope. But silicone hoses claim to seal better and outlast epdm rubber with "improved" liner clamps and constant tension. If anything, these can be tightened if blowing a hose were an issue but maybe there's other problems by then.

 

Yeah silicone has its advantages for sure.

There is a lot wrong with giving more options here. Just kidding.

More options is ALWAYS a good thing here. It's what led me to make this thread in the first place when the naysaying was initially VERY high on modification limits of this system. Look where we are now.

 

Stock for stock on back roads I actually prefer the 3rd gens. I think people forget that our 4.0s arent torque monsters stock anyways

 

I think these should work good.
Hard overlap prevents the pinch point of traditional worm style that could lead to a leak

 

You can leave this thread now with that blasphemous talk.














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In all seriousness I have never driven a Turd Gen off-road so I have no basis for comparison to our own gens.

 

My friend doesn't complain about his 2020 TRD Pro towing a teardrop other than gas mileage. He understands he needs to stay in "Sport" and disable overdrive here in Colorado. He also is comparing the 3rd gen to how terrible it was towing the same teardrop with a Subaru that had a CVT. This same Subaru got cross-axled on a very mild trail behind me one and started rolling backwards while revving as much as he could.

There's a reason I sought out a newer 2nd gen to replace my 1st gen instead of dumping money into the 1st gen…

 

Could always use the Gates heat shrink hose clamps....

As long as you don't have to remove your hoses any time soon.

 

Ahh yes, I've seen those before on Ford. The ones that leak like theres no tomorrow.

I dig the way they look actually.

 

I've spent only limited time behind the wheel of a (6MT) 3rd Gen. Butt dyno from that limited experience says they come up short of our trucks, stock vs stock, when it comes to low-end grunt. It's not that ours are torque monsters but, IIRC, our torque peaks sooner and the curve is flatter. The only way the new one felt "acceptable" was to hold the RPMs artificially high. (The friend who owned it said the only way he could tolerate it was in the 6MT config and that the A/T was a non-starter.)

And, you scored one of the most optimally-modded ones around.

 

Well boys and girls....welcome to the future!

I'm rebuilding a high voltage battery for a recall on a large body SUV. I get to replace all 12 modules in the battery.

 

Hey bro, so when you cut the top hose....you taped around it and used a razor knife to cut along the taped line correct. Chopping off 1” or so in the process right.....

 

Yes. Choose where you want the beginning of the adapter inlet to be, remember the actual inlet will be inside of the hose so the only thing you need to cut is 1" as that is all of the adapter which will be left exposed after you are all said and done. Use the beginning of where you taped and measure approximately 1" out. Mark that spot with a sharpie and tape over that mark. Using the natural lines of the hose try and tape straight using that, or use the beginning of where you tape as a reference and make sure the end of the tape meets that perfectly. After you have applied the tape give it an eyeball by turning the hose and making sure the line looks relatively straight all the way through.

Does that make sense?

Remember, you are making two cuts here, one starting and one ending as you are effectively shortening the hose by approximately 1" and then using the adapter to compensate for the 1" of material you just cut off.

Wherever you start your mark you will be cutting on the inside of the tape line and on the ending cut you will be cutting inside the tape line. Assuming you are going left to right in your project.