Anything welding

I like and use these

NIDAYE 2 Pack Tungsten Carbide Scriber with Magnet - Aluminum Etching Engraving Pen with Clip for Glass/Ceramics/Hardened Steel by Fabcell

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0789HX8LC/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_api_glt_fabc_DD8FEE7J4CP6FX0W4D0W

 

I have the same ones and like em

 

I made a magnetic sweeper from the HF magnet and two cheap casters. Works perfect to pick up any stray fuzz around the shop and all the pigtails by the drill press. I made it back when HF used to give the magnets away and scrap tube out of my remnant pile.

 

We had a magnetic sweeper on the test range like the one below. It pulled all kinds of stuff out of the dirt. You wouldn't see anything on the ground, but the magnet would be full of screws and welding rod ends.

$181 Master Magnetics Heavy Duty Magnetic Sweeper - Heavy Duty Push-Type with Release, 24" Sweeping Width, MFSM24RX

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009Y4EZO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_XM4K0XG9A8MK1PKXDWV8

 

The scribes referenced are good.

Not as precise yet much easier to see than sharpie, also grab this:

$14 Markal 96006 - Markal Silver-Streak Holder with 1 Reflective Lead, Built-in Sharpener, 1 Click Advance -Ideal for Metal Layout & Fabrication Work

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004HMC7JE

 

Agreed. I tried the scribes and I wasn’t a big fan. For me these pencils sharpened to a fine point work better since I’m not doing anything mega precise.


RevMark Silver Hex Pencil with Silver Lead – 12-Pack – Made in the USA – Quality Marking for Construction Workers, Metal Work, Welders, Plumbers, Framers – For Smooth and Rough Surfaces

$20 RevMark Silver Hex Pencil with Silver Lead – 12-Pack – Made in the USA – Quality Marking for Construction Workers, Metal Work, Welders, Plumbers, Framers – For Smooth and Rough Surfaces

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LNVKKGG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_S78M434YNYVWXJ1JEB4D

 

Thanks for the suggestions. Sharpie works good for 90 percent of things but trying to clean up some of my work and scribe for drilling holes and layout would help with a finer point. I’ll pick up all 3 most likely and give it a go

 

I guess it all comes down to just what your laying out over the years I used just about everything it seems I always come back to soap stone .

I can put a sharp point on the round style ones and rectangle ones a pretty narrow edge.

The pencil type ones got dirty far to fast with what I worked on.

 

Working o

So this project (and the recent 10% coupon) finally pushed me to get the titanium 170. Got it set up and running flux core for now.
1/4” flat stock, 030 wire, plugged into 220v. Ran some flat beads on the surface, and then tried a few fillet welds. These are all done in small bites because it was getting hot and warping a bit. Critique welcome.

 

What are you seeing as your welding.

See the puddle wash both toes of the weld?

Maybe pause just a little longer

 

I don't think you're warping 1/4". You may be pulling it over. Consistent hand movement and steady torch will help. Practice the entire run without laying a bead, and make sure you're braced, or have your body in a comfortable position. Relax, make steady movements and make sure you can see the puddle. If you can't see, you can't weld.
Zim

30 seconds into this video, he makes a practice run. It may be for demo, but he almost always takes a practice run before welding. He's the best out there for education in my opinion.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ods6Jp7hEh0

 

Are you using the recommended settings on the inside of the lid?

 

If you end up undercutting because the puddle doesn't wash both toes of the weld, is it acceptable to lay another bead on top of the previous one? Is that considered multi-run or multi-pass welding, or is that something different?

 

Best answer it depends !!

Comes down to just what your doing since this self shielded wire slag inclusions are possible.

It would be a multipass weld as long as it was done correct.any and all problems corrected .

your own project not a big deal in most cases

 

I've noticed if I haven't welded in a while I'll tend to undercut my first couple welds because I'm going too fast, once I slow down it goes away. I hate the look of undercuts so I'll run another bead to make sure I'm getting good penetration, but have wondered if there's any issue doing that.

 

As long as your next pass eliminates all the under cutting your good.

It comes back to just what the weld is for.

 

Great Sunday. Made a lot of progress on one of the DIY projects I’d had in mind when deciding to buy a welder & learn to weld.

Gutter hangers for my floating dock roof. No fascia to attach to, supports set back from edge of metal roof by varying distances (whomever built the roof apparently wasn’t very detail oriented.

Might be ugly but these will get the job done.

Next step drill mounting holes for attaching to the 2x2 square tube uprights, then clean up and paint.





Oh and did I mention I really like this fab top table from Northern Tool?

 

Got a few tig welding supplies in today.

 

Today I also learned something about the Harbor Freight Repair Plan they sell with the welders as well as a weirdness about their website stock info.

tl;dr they replaced instead of repaired, allowed me to pay the difference to upgrade, and website claiming “Available for In-Store Special Order” doesn’t mean they don’t have it in stock.

I’ve had my Harbor Freight Titanium 170 since Nov 2019 and added C25 gas a few months later. (Why TF did I wait so long? LOL). Noticed a while ago that I could hear a slight gas leak at the solenoid. Gauges would drop to zero fairly quickly after turning off tank valve. Wasn’t in a hurry to do anything as I didn’t know how normal this was or wasn’t, it was easy enuf to turn tank off and on for the stuff I’m doing, knew I could get it fixed with the plan, and the Repair Plan claimed up to fifteen days to repair (and I had no idea where any repair centers were located).

On a lark this morning I decided to call the Repair number to find out how close a repair place might be. Turns out they didn’t repair, just an in-store replacement. Gave me an authorization code / RMA number.

After getting my other stuff done for the day I packed up the welder and headed over to HF to see if they had stock and verify that the lady on the phone hadn’t steered me wrong.

I asked about doing an upgrade and they said sure. (I’ve become interested in doing a little bit of TIG on SS)
the difference and brought this home.