San Antonio

I'd put a volt meter on the battery and watch the voltage when you're trying to crank it. If the voltage drops below 11-11.5v when turning the key to the "start" position, i would suspect the battery. The clicking would lead me towards that as well, but it definitely seems strange for a year old battery to give up the ghost.

You might take the battery out and run it down to vatozone and have them load test it for free

 

I’ll try that. Both. But meter first. Wish my fluke would read DC amps

 

Here's a hint:



That's literally the first bolt since I dropped the skid. It's rusted in place and then had a weird rubberized undercoating sprayed on it. Got it red hot; it had zero effect. They all look like they're going to be about the same..

Trying to find a logical/rational reason not to just torch all the old suspension off.

 

AutoZone would not help me with my AutoZone battery in a "modified" truck. Duralast bigass expensive one. Last summer exactly as you describe. Jumps would start it. Would start in the drive, not at the store. Finally carried my jumper pack and got home, but my charger wasn't good anymort.
I got a small charger with the "RECONDITION" mode. I had to recondition the battery over night, and it's been perfect since. This is what I got...

IEIK 12V 8Amp 24V 4Amp Automotive Smart Battery Charger Maintainer for Car, Truck, Boat, Motorcycle, Lawn Mower, Truck, SUV, RV, ATV and More (Yellow)

Amazon.com: IEIK 12V 8Amp 24V 4Amp Automotive Smart Battery Charger Maintainer for Car, Truck, Boat, Motorcycle, Lawn Mower, Truck, SUV, RV, ATV and More (Yellow): Car Electronics
It was the RECONDITION mode that solved my issue.

 

It's @hoverlover s Lifted Prius! I know it!

 

It's a SmartCar!

https://youtu.be/xrfHHS9TMjM

 

I was SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOooooooooooooo close!

 

And work expands to fill all available time.....
Took 3 hours and YouTube wife searches to peel the 1999 Whirlpool off the wall. Two more to fit the new and different by 1/2" here, 5/8" there.... and get the new one up. We should not complain. 1999 Model, made in the PRC, and one factory authorized repair. So, the replacement is virtually identical with a new face.




Tomorrow, after the dentist, it's on to taking care of the faucets in prep for the weekend. Snow or not, it WILL be cold!

 

Ah Ha!!!! So after no successful findings I decided to go basic and cleaned the posts and terminals which by all accounts looked clean. Must have been some oxidation or something impeding proper contact cuz she fired right up. Thanks to all you fellas and all your ideas. I’m quite happy it was the simplest and usually the most obvious resolve.

 

Ya I know you know

That’s great

 

I know it's a Prius! @hoverlover would NEVER really get a Smart car!

 

Glad to hear it. When it happened to me, I had JUST redone all the terminals and wiring though. The "custom" wiring was the AwfulZone excuse.

 

See? I had my wires all "modded up", so I needed to track down the problem before they'd check the battery!




now that hurts!

 

looks clean as hell to me

 

Just remember that "recondition", because I had never heard of it. Much less done it.

 

@SCOTT'S TACO LOCO
I used these. But even with planning, still wires in both directions.

$17 AUTOUTLET 2-Pack Heavy Duty Battery Terminal Connectors for 0/4/8/10 Gauge Wires with Shims & Protectors, Ideal for Cars, Vans, Trucks, and More

Amazon.com: AUTOUTLET Battery Terminals Connector,0/4/8/10 Gauge Heavy Duty Top Post AMP Car Battery Terminal Positive Negative Battery Ends with Spacer Shims Clear Covers for Auto Car Audio Marine Boat(1 Pair): Automotive

 

Fancy

 

I feel so freaking MODERN!
Since Spectrum fixed my sunroom cable connection, I have gotten so actually see Deadpool 2, and am now watching the original!
I laugh, I cry! I have missed out for so long!

 

Evening Danny @RockHed